Gallery, Projects and General > Gallery

Drawbar hammer and drawbars

(1/2) > >>

Mayhem:
Been a while since I have posted here, so I thought I would share the drawbars that I made for my Kondia FV-1 mill as well as the hammer.

Given that I buy most of my tooling OS, I have ended up with two different threads on my tooling: 1/2-13 for the US stuff and M12x1.75 for the metric stuff.  Both are made from 4140, using ground and polished 1/2" pinned into ø30mm stock that was turned and milled to for the hex.  The coloured grooves are so I don't mix them up!

The hammer uses a 1/2" drive 19mm socked and a weird brass pipe fitting that I found. It has a 1-14 threaded end and once screwed on, I filled it with lead.  I did contemplate simply knurling the handle but I decided to steel someones idea of making wooden scales.  The wood is recycled Jarrah (eucalyptus marginata) and I deliberately cut the wood looking for some imperfections.  Oiled with Ballistol and once that soaked in it got a polish with some locally made gun stock polish which leave a nice non-slip finish.

I'm really happy with these and they are much nicer to use than to two crappy ones I had been using (one came with the mill).  I also added a thrust washer which sits in the top of the housing and it works very well

Arbalist:
Nice job Mayhem. :thumbup: I've never had any problems knocking out the drawbar on my mill as I don't over tighten it but I used to get amused at our cousins over the pond bleating on about Morse tapers not being self ejecting in spite of the fact that on some machines they are. Mine wasn't though so I made one!



Bottom thread is M12 x 1.75 to fit all my tooling and the top is M14 x 1.25. I suppose it's a bit kinder on the mill but no big deal.

Mayhem:
Thanks Arbalist.  The NTMB30 taper doesn't require a beating but it does need a quick, firm tap to break free.  I've had one come loose once through inexperience and not wanting to over-tighten things.  With the thrust bearing, a quarter turn past the point of initial resistance has proved to be tight enough.

Arbalist:
On my MT3 tooling I just give it a sharp tap with a copper and hide hammer when required. Quite often though I have an MT3 ER32 chuck in the machine so it's a moot point anyway!

Jonny:
Used to have trouble knocking tapers out, use it often and wont have the problem.
I leave a 2Lb hammer by the side and 16mm spanner, spindle lock sharp tap and cutter out in 3 seconds, 7 secs later new cutter in grollied up. By this time still trying to undo ER with two hands.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page