Bog's Paddleduck Engine

Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

<< < (18/45) > >>

kvom:
I had a couple of "days off": Sunday my daughter had invited 15 or so of her closest friends to have a party to celebrate the end of the school year, as well as to inaugurate the playroom upstairs from the stop. Dad was "politely" asked not to run any noisy machines during that event. Monday we had a long afternoon invite with some friends. But today I had most of the afternoon to play in the shop.

The first task was to turn the top caps, after which I drilled and tapped both them and the block. I also tapped the mounting holes for the upper plate, allowing a test fit:

I then made a pair of blanking plates and tapped the mounting holes in the block. The DRO did manage to get the holes in all three parts to line up, so I was able to screw them all together. The only "glitch" is that one of the valve holes is slightly obstructed by the plate, but taking apporx .01" off that end should solve that.

Since I had the top section chunks lashed together, I was interested to see how it would look connected to the bottom. I'm going to make the columns during the summer CNC lathe class, so I decided to quickly make a set of plain columns from some 3/4" Al round I had previously scavenged. I had only enough time to finish two of them:

The soda can is included as a size reference.

Now it's time to get cranking on the crankshaft.

bogstandard:
That is going to be a monster of an engine Kirk. :clap:

I personally would leave things like decorative columns etc until you have proved it will run. No use going to a lot of trouble if one of your calculations is a bit far out and stops it running. :(

But don't think negative as I am doing, just carry on and I am sure you will have a great runner. :nrocks:

John

kvom:
My thoughts are to make the columns a bit longer than spec, so that it is easy to shave off a bit where necessary. These temporary ones are .1" longer than the plan would indicate, but since the thickness of the top plate isn't given I can't be sure what the optimum length will be. I can also mill the top plate thinner as well.

bogstandard:
Both top and bottom plates are the same thickness.

John

kvom:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on May 27, 2009, 09:12:03 AM ---Both top and bottom plates are the same thickness.

John

--- End quote ---

They are on mine as well. Hiowever the thickness of the bottom plate has no effect on the mechanism. As I understand it, I can adjust the travel of the valves and piston via the threaded connections, but if the plate is too thick or the columns too long then you run out of adjustment room and must reduce the height. Correct?

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version