Bog's Paddleduck Engine

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Darren:
Bogs gave me a demo on silver soldering when I was over there.

He made it look so easy...but I imagine not having seen him do it then I would mess up myself at first.

What surprised me was just how much heat was put into the part to make the solder melt. You need to get it really hot.

Been following your build with keen interest, nicely shown and looking good :thumbup:

sbwhart:

--- Quote from: kvom on May 18, 2009, 07:33:10 AM ---
I'll look for citric acid one of these days.

--- End quote ---

Coke Cola/Pepsi or lemon juice will do the trick you just have to leave it in a bit longer.

Stew

Bernd:
Kirk,

Check out a place that carries welding supplies. They should also carry silver solder and flux. I use Harris Saftey-silv 45. It melts at 1370 degrees F. The flux is Harris Stay-silv white braxing flux.

Make sure both parts are clean of dirt and oil. Put flux on both parts. Put the two parts together. Put a small piece of silver solder on the joint and heat till a dull red. At that point you should see the solder start to turn to a fluid. Let cool before moving. When still hot to the touch put in acid bath.

I use sulfirc acid. I get that at the hardware store. They sell it as drain cleaner. This is concentrated stuff. I dilute with water. Always pour the acid into the water, never the other way around.

Bogs explained all that in his section on building the engine as you have already said.

Good luck with the soldering. I see it as nothing more than soft soldering but using more heat.

Regards,
Bernd

kvom:
Thanks for all the advice. I'm actually looking foward to trying it. I'll use the citric acid as it sounds simpler and safer.

Today I had a couple of hours in the shop before going off to school. Ny task today was the cutouts on the base plate. I started by measuring the faces of each of the bearing blocks with an edge finder. I then used my height gauge scribe to make very faint marks on the plate. These were just as checks on where the cutout corners are supposed to go. Since I was going to use a 1/4" endmill, I spot drilled each corner 1/8" in from the computed dimensions, using the scribed lines as a check. I then drilled 1/4" holes (end mill is the type with the small hole in the center, hence not useable as a dril).
Here's the result:

Next I made all the horizontal cuts using the table feed:

The Y-axis slots I had to do by hand.

After deburring the edges I remounted the bearings to check my work. I looks as if I will need to slightly enlarge under one of the bearings a bit.

I had a little time left, so I drilled and tapped the lock screws for the crank webs (did I ever mention I hate tapping?)

CrewCab:
Looking good kvom :thumbup:

CC

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