Bog's Paddleduck Engine

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kvom:
After some weeks where shop hours were dedicated to automotive chores, I got some time in to get onto the project backlog. Unfortunately my photo site, pbase.com, has been down for the past 3 days, so I won't be able to share visuals until they come back up.

The first task was to finish the mini tubing bender that had been languishing as an incomplete box-o-parts for several weeks. I made the last few minor parts, cobbled it together, and was able to bend 4 lengths of 1/4" copper tubing that are to serve as the connections from the spool valve to the engine. I also made the two small flanges for the input and exhaust tubes. And as the last part needing fabrication, I made the valve handle.

Now I pulled out the silver solder "kit". First, I needed to plug the two holes in the top and bottom of the valve body. I turned a couple of small brass rounds with a flange to ensure they stayed put during soldering. The solder job went smoothly, and I then milled the plugs flat to the top and bottom of the valve.

Then, like Bogs, I used the engine itself as a jig to hold the air tubes in place while I solders them to the valve. One all four were soldered, I proceeded to solder the other ends to the flanges. Here I had a couple of problems, in that some gaps remain around the tubes. Seems the solder stuck to the tubes rather than falling into the cracks.

So now I need some advice on how to seal the gaps. Should I just apply some more flux and some pieces of solder and reapply heat, or is there more to it?

bogstandard:
Kirk,

Once you have some pics up, show us the problem joints.

It might just be a case of putting the job into the pickle for an hour or so, drying off completely with a flashover with your torch, then a little more flux and solder on the joint. You need to get rid of any old soldering flux deposits before proceeding, otherwise the joint will be contaminated and the fresh solder might not 'take'.

John

kvom:
Here's the photo log of progress on the engine.

First, the mini tube bender for making the 90 degree bends in 1/4" tubing:

A trial fit once the tubes are trimmed:

The side flanges with some temporary tubes for fit:

The top/bottom plugs soldered:

And them milled flush:

The tubes soldered into the valve body:

The handle for the valve:

Valve after soldering tubes to the flanges:

And the problem gaps where the tubes enter the flanges:

bogstandard:
Kirk,

Very nicely done indeed, there is not much wrong with your soldering technique at all, in fact it is spot on.
You have soon picked that up.

For those semi soldered joints, just do as I suggested, pickle them for a while, reflux and wrap a bit more solder around the pipe, say 1.5 turns. Don't let the main heat touch the pipes, just the flanges.

John

kvom:
I finally got around to resoldering the flanges and finishing the reversing valve. Only took 4 months since the last post. :scratch:
But here is it, ready for disassembly and some polish. I am going to remake the blanking plates.

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