Bog's Paddleduck Engine

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kvom:
Today, following Bogs' recipe, I dosed up the air supply with 10w-30 motor oil and ran the engine intermittently for a little over an hour. At the same time, the exhaust and leaks lubricated my milling vise quite nicely. ::)

There were any number of things that would cause it to stop:

1) The mounting screws for the guide rods would vibrate loose, allowing the rod to fall down and jam the crank.

2) The piston gland nuts would vibrate loose. I had to cinch them up tight with a wrench eventually.

3) One of the screws holding the #2 steam chest loosened, allowing the steam chest to tilt slightly and jam the valve stem.

Nevertheless, after an hour the engine was running nicely on 30 psi. It needs enough air to cause the compressor to run continually, so 1 hour was about all I could stand.

After the last run, I noticed that the jam nuts on the valve stems had vibrated loose, so I suspect that one of the valves has rotated to a sticky position. That's something to check the next time I run it.

Brass_Machine:
:clap: :clap: :clap:

Nice job Kirk! I remember when you started posting over at HMEM... You have come a loooooong way since then eh? :smart:

You deserve a banana!

:ddb: :nrocks: :ddb:

Eric

CrewCab:
And have another banana on me Kirk, nice job :ddb:

CC

ozzie46:

Kirk
You might try putting a piece of dental floss in the piston and valve packing gland with the end sticking out, then install the gland nuts. Sort of a poor mans friction nut. It might keep them from loosening up as you run it in.

When I made my QCTHs I put some in the height adjustment screw and it keeps it from free turning when I change out holders.

Ron

kvom:
I finally was able to get the columns made on the CNC lathe at school.

On the left is a temporary column, followed by one that's been tapped and the others I need to drill and tap. To get the same profile manually would have required grinding some form tools, plus cutting the taper either with the TA or the compound. This was my second project for actually making a part, and the first that I designed myself. There were two g-code programs:

The raw material was 5.5" lengths of 1" 6061 rod. For the first program, the rods are clamped in a 1" collet with 2" exposed. This program faces the rod and turns the 1st .5" down to a diameter of .49". It then centerdrills to form a 60 degree chamfer, then drills 3/4" deep with a #36 drill for later tapping 6-32.

For the second program, the pieces are clamped with 4.5" exposed. A live center is used in the chamfer created in step 1. The program turns the profile using a 3mm round tool, then parts off the column at a length of 4.16", a few thousands overlength.

To finish for mounting, I chucked the column on the lathe using a rubberflex collet, with the bottom exposed. I could then face the bottom and drill and tap for the 6-32 mounting screw. I then tapped the top end at the workbench. Once I do all 4 I'll use the height gauge to measure each one, and then face so that all 4 are the same length to with .001.

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