Bog's Paddleduck Engine

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kvom:

:D

Run in the video is with 1 guide rod per crosshead at 40 psi. The engine still needs to have 1 piston just oast TDC to self-start, but once started it will run for minutes on end. Perhaps I need to do the 10 hr. run in that Bogs did. The only change I made since last night was adjustting the #2 valve a few degrees. It then ran for 4-5 minutes until stopping.

I then discovered that the vibrations had loosened the grub/set screws on the #1 valve allowing the timing to go off. On the second long run the same thing happened on the #2 valve screw. I am thinking that the #2 eccentric can be loctited to the shaft without causing any problems. For the #1 valve I might need a deeper notch in the shaft or else a hile drilled into the notch.

I'm guessing the reason the engine won't self-start in all positions is that there is still a fair amount of static friction to overcome, and that a half-stroke of the piston doesn't generate enough momentum. It might be interesting to mount a heavy metal disc on the end of the shaft. One area of friction that I'm aware of is between the eccentric clevis and fork. I think a bit of filing on each will help the next time I do a disassembly.

Another thing to try is moving the air to the lower inlets to see how it runs in reverse.

John, you can relax a bit now. :beer:

Darren:
Way to go Kirk, that is wonderful news.....looks like it's going like the clappers there.... :clap: :clap: :clap:

Bernd:
All right Kirk

Way to go. You out lasted the engine. :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

:ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:

:nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks:

Bernd

bogstandard:
Thanks Kirk, I will sleep soundly tonight. :lol:

I still think that your timing is slightly out though. But now you have it running, you can tweak until you get it spot on.

Give it a drink of auto engine oil every ten minutes or so, down the airline to the engine, and let it bed itself in for a while.

A real good result. Apart from mine, yours is only the second to be shown being built with a running result at the end. Shred beat you to it, but not by much.

Yours is a bit special though, you made it BIGGER.

Very well done. :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

:ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:

Bogs

kvom:

--- Quote ---tweak until you get it spot on.

--- End quote ---
Spot on meaning it starts in any position?

--- Quote ---Give it a drink of auto engine oil every ten minutes or so
--- End quote ---

I have been using air-tool oil. What's the advantage of auto oil?

--- Quote ---Apart from mine, yours is only the second to be shown being built with a running result at the end.
--- End quote ---

Since you built two, mine is only the 4th. :bow:

--- Quote ---you made it BIGGER
--- End quote ---

I have an idea that bigger is easier, aside from accumulating materials. Other than the brass for the reversing valve and the legs, plus the drillrod I didn't pay for any of the material. The scrap bin at school was very handy. For tools that I didn't have at the start of the project, I had to buy some threading dies, a tap or two, and a 1/2" reamer for the cylinders. I was able to borrow the slitting saw for the crank webs and lathe dogs for turning the connrods. I also got the gift of the silver solder from you.

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