Bog's Paddleduck Engine

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Bernd:
Kirk,

I was looking through your thread for a picture of the engine assembled and found one.

Are you still using the same pillars when you assemble the top and bottom?

I'm wondering if there could be a possibility that one or more of the columns are not the right length and you could be twisting the bottom frame were the bearing blocks are. Try leaving the bottom four or top four bolts some what loose and see if the engine turns over.

It's just a thought and I don't think has been mentioned before.

Bernd

sbwhart:
Hi Kirk

Good advice from Eric put it down for a couple of days and get on with something else, when you pick it up to have another go you'll have fresh eyes.

A good approach is to strip it down and assemble it up again checking each part and assembly as you go for tightness misalignment etc etc correcting things as you go, try and work methodically, a lot of the time it not just one thing but an accumulation of little things that are at fault.

Good luck

Stew

kvom:
Thanks for the inputs.

It will probably be a few days until I can get to this again. Since the engine does turn manually as it is now, I am assuming that air pressure in the cylinder would push the pistons down and I would see some movement. Since the hole between the steam chest and the block is so small, I'm thinking that an imperfect fit with the block would let the air escape more easily.

Once I get a better connector for the air supply, I want to remove the top caps and verify that air is entering the cylinder. I'll also try to verify that the tuning setup is correct per the manual. It's not clear how sensitive the setup is, esp. as to the valves.

The 4 temporary columns do have the same length, to within .001". I did start the CNC bling versions this week, but because of limited access to the HAAS lathe I was able to run only the first of the two necessary gcode programs. It will be week after next before I can get them finished.

It would have been too easy if it ran the first time. :scratch:

Bernd:

--- Quote from: kvom on July 17, 2009, 08:09:22 AM ---The 4 temporary columns do have the same length, to within .001".

--- End quote ---

Well, that at least it eliminates one problem then. Good.

You'll get it running eventually. Just keep at it.

Bernd

kvom:
Since I got my Jeep repairs done early, I had a few minutes to fab up a quick and dirty adapter so that I could run air to the engine. At 40 psi the small tubing blew off the engine inlet, so I think I will looks for a 1/4 x 1/8 barb that will be thick enough for a hose clamp.

In the meantime, I found out the following:

1) The biggest air flow out is coming from the #2 valve gland.

2) There is "some" air exiting from the exhaust ports.

3) When I turn the engine by hand, I feel increasing resistance as the pistons approach TDC. At the top there is enough pressure to turn the crank 180 degrees. So air is getting into the cylinders from the steam chest.

I'll be away all day Saturday Jeeping, but Sunday I can investigate further.

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