Bog's Paddleduck Engine

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Stilldrillin:
That`s taking shape nicely! :clap:

David D

bogstandard:
Kirk,

Coming along great now, you are doing a wonderful job of it seeing as you are making it a non standard size. I think that there is a mention in the text about making the holes in the bottom plate so that the bearing blocks overhang the edges slightly.

--- Quote --- He also has a shaper attachment for a BP mill that I can have
--- End quote ---

I would suggest you take his hand off at elbow level. The slotting head can be used for allsorts, from cutting keyway slots to square holes. Even if it only gets used once in a blue moon, it is doing no harm hanging out of the way at the back of the head ram. If he comes up with a right angle milling attachment, take his other hand off. That is one bit I would like, but finances are stopping me at the moment.

John

kvom:
I got the shaper head home and did some disassembly to check the working/condition. It's not a BP, but made by Lilian Co. in Taiwan. It is missing the clevis that would allow it to mount on the back of the BP ram. I suspect it was permanently attached to the front of a ram as it had a weird setup on the end of the tool ram that looked like it was some some of textile fixture.

I was going to plug it in to see if the electrics worked, but the plug has a different pin configuration than the plug for my lathe does. Motor is 3PH 3/4HP running a 5-sheaf pulley. Stroke is up to 4". There is a homemade control box with e-stop and jog buttons, in addition to the power on/off switch on the head. Pictures can be viewed here if anyone is interested: http://www.pbase.com/kvom/slotting_head.

As for the engine, I did a test fit of the conrods to the cranks this afternoon. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had made them wider than spec since my crankwebs are narrower. Since the crosshead slots are to spec, I will need to narrow that end to fit, and plan to cut a taper in the center. Not sure that I will get to that today as I have shop class this evening.

kvom:
Today I narrowed the heads of the conrods to fit the cross heads. I removed the top section and attached the crosshead guides to check for fit. The crossheads went on fairly cleanly, even without any extra "wiggle room" with the guide mounting screws. I did find that one of the guide rods was slightly bent, so I needed to make a replacement. I found that my rear temporary columns were too thick and interfered with the crossheads; so I needed to turn them down to clear.

Then I made one of the link pins to connect the conrod to the crosshead and put it together with the crankshaft, as shown here:

I am able to turn the cranksahft by hand and move the crosshead up and down, albeit somewhat stiffly. The conrod is still a bit wide and rubs the crankweb. Since I plan to taper the conrods this issue will go away.

Progress might be slow the next week as we will have houseguests.

Brass_Machine:
Kirk,

That is progress so very nicely. I am envious of this endeavor. Keep up the good work.

Eric

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