Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

Old fashioned camera spools

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ieezitin:
he means this..  its halved so you can get your cutting tool up close and the center does not get in the way, if you buy one get carbide tipped, they are not expensive and a really handy tool to have you will use it often.

Anthony.

fatoftheland:
Thank you all for the help
Jon

DMIOM:
Jon,

I'd be a little wary of using a dead centre (half or otherwise) on such an flimsy ended-spool, as the end of the spool will be rotating around the point of the dead centre, and I suspect the pressure would spread the pressed hole in the spool end.

If you're going to turn it between centres, I'd be inclined to suggest turning a little button up first, slightly smaller than the target diameter, with a spigot on one face to locate in the end of the spool, and centre-drilled pop in the other end to locate over your tailstock centre.  In fact, if you made the 'button' a centimetre or two long, it might give you sufficient clearance that you could use a normal running centre.

At the headstock end, if you're using another centre, then make your button long enough that you can pop a pin or dowel or studding through which you can use as/with a drive dog.

Dave

vtsteam:
I remember those film spools from my first cameras. They are very light sheet metal stock, and I think it would be hard to run them between centers, as DMIOM said, and hard to drive them as well without damaging the cheeks or the keyhole at center

My own direction would be to try to support the ends if I had to do it on the lathe by gluing one end at a time for turning to some thick aluminum sacrificail block chucked up in the four jaw. Since you are only turning the outer edge of the cheek down, you could just do one cheek (the glued one), release it from the block, glue the other cheek, and do that. Each cheek would be well supported by the backing and the center hole untouched.

What kind of glue and how much, might take some thought. working with a washer, for practice, would probably give you the info and experience.

I've used superglue for similar kinds of things. If tacked on lightly and carefully, it can be knocked loose with a sharp rap to the edge with a soft drift. Turners cement is traditional, as is shellac, I believe. Again, working out the amount and type, and method of release is important, and practice with a washer should reveal what is needed.

vtsteam:
This also seems like it would be a good job for a toolpost grinder. Even a makeshift one from a dremel glued to some 1/4" keystock, to hold it in the toolpost. Going gently and slowly shouild reduce the flanges without damaging anything. This would not be for the glued block method mentioned above, but for a conventionally held spool. It's not actually necessary to spin the lathe for this. you could turn the lathe by hand.

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