Author Topic: PeterE builds a 3d Printer (Read 67600 times)

PeterE · « **Reply #150 on:** March 23, 2016, 01:21:37 PM »

Hi picclock,

Oh, I understood. So, I decided to do some classical fault finding to see if the thing is burnt or not.

As I said, there are some LEDs are lit as they are supposed to.

The ones to the left inside the red ring are the Tx Rx LEDs and they work admirably when something is uploaded.
The single one inside the red ring to the right is the Power ON LED and it is either red or orange. cannot tell through the RAMPS board (No, no hole it lights straight through the board!)
In the blue ring we find the reset button! (How can you place that to make it wind up under the board above without any chance to touch it but to remove the board????)

So it appears that the Arduino board is working as it should so far.

With Pronterface running on the PC using a USB cable I can get temp readings but nothing else.

The display is getting power as it lights up, but there is no text or graphics showing.

Then I also noted that the green LED on the RAMPS board (next to the extruder heater connection plinth) blinks twice at power up. So the RAMPS board also seem to work.

When I first uploaded a so called sketch I was able to get Pronterface to connect to the boards. That was when I understood that the temp sensors must be connected to be able to continue.
Then I probably made something odd in the next sketch trying to fix a setting, but from that point the program does no longer answer. I am starting to wonder if I have managed to crash the SW?

Will try to test further. Have installed Repetier on the PC and will do a sketch from there to see if it improves the situation.

Will be back for sure.

/Peter

picclock · « **Reply #151 on:** March 23, 2016, 02:32:41 PM »

Hi Peter E
Think I might have sussed it from your description. Sounds like you have not got the correct display selected in configuration. H. The graphics display needs the u8glib library added to the arduino ide. Not sure of the exact config settings but will post them when I get back.
Written rather badly from my mobile.
Best regards
Picclock

picclock · « **Reply #152 on:** March 23, 2016, 04:21:06 PM »

H PeterE
The relevent section in configuration.h is around line 720. This is the part you need to use. Ignore the white pcb bit. You will need to disable any other graphics settings. Once you have it working you can edit the click controller style in configuration_adv.h. If you want I will post my configuration files tomorrow.

Hope this helps

Best regards

picclock

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller
//
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: http://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 4 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 1 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking

// The RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=202&cPath=1591_1626
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click

PeterE · « **Reply #153 on:** March 23, 2016, 05:32:17 PM »

Thanks ever so much picclock. This more or less confirms that it is a SW issue rather than a HW one.

With your examples and suggestions I now have more than one way forward.

A - update the sketch I already have according to suggestions.
if that does not work;
B - Dump the existing installation I have and install a new one. My son found a useful example in wikipedia that looked more complete than my original one.
if that does not work;
C - Try the Repetier path.

I can also add that I had some problems when downloading all the files from the beginning. I was missing both python parts and the u8-thingy, parts that I have downloaded as I found their need.

Well tomorrow will be next step on the way.

/Peter

picclock · « **Reply #154 on:** March 24, 2016, 04:15:59 AM »

Hi PeterE
Copy of known working files attached. You will have to amend the steps/mm settings for the axis and The Z axis endstop state if you wish to use attached configuration.txt file you will need to rename it configuration.h (unable to post .h files) . I called my machine Granite 3D, rename to your preference (Peter the Great ??

). Even without any alterations it will allow testing of the setup. Just unzip the Marlin-RC1_3 file, rename the originial configuration.h file and replace with attached (in the marlin directory). Then connect arduino, open or double click the Marlin.ino file to open in the arduino editor. Select upload, have a cup of coffee while it compiles everything in sight, including, hopefully, the marlin sketch. Once its uploaded you should see the Marlin welcome screen - no need to power it, it will run from the USB lead.

Good Luck

Best Regards

picclock

picclock · « **Reply #155 on:** March 24, 2016, 04:18:15 AM »

Marlin files hopefully !!

PeterE · « **Reply #156 on:** March 24, 2016, 10:49:11 AM »

Hi picclock,

Trial crowned with success! A very great thank you!

Your files prooved that the SW I had installed was not complete or perhaps even faulty. Now the display shows nice info both running from the USB and from the PSU. This means that now I should be able to do the calibration from the display rather than having to re-upload for evey little adjustment.

So, now the setup work continues with the initial calibration of movements etc.

Again, A great thank you for all your help.

Btw, my printer's name will be the very un-glorious "Peter's Prusa i3 R"

BR

/Peter

picclock · « **Reply #157 on:** March 24, 2016, 12:24:10 PM »

Hi PeterE

Glad I could help. Still think my name was better

. The rest of it should be fairly straightforward. I've been sidetracked by domestic duties but hope to have more progress soon. Bought a large lidded plastic box for the filament and some reusable silica gel to keep it all dry, important with nylon.

Good luck with your first prints.

Best Regards

picclock

PeterE · « **Reply #158 on:** March 24, 2016, 05:38:37 PM »

picclock,

Yes, your printer name is certainly better, but names can be changed

Got the MINTEMP error and suddenly remebered that I had disconnected the temp sensors

Well, after connecting them it now is time to learn the display and its commands. Everything working so far. I can for example move the steppers through the panel

Now Easter activities are coming up so teh workshop speed and activities will slow down due to that, but I will try to get a thing or two done anyway.

Happy Easter holidays everyone!

/Peter

PeterE · « **Reply #159 on:** March 28, 2016, 12:05:35 PM »

Some updates during easter holidays,

Building a machine like a 3D printer feels just like a hurdles race, a number of obstacles to pass on the way.

Got some very nice help from picclock with the software which took me forward a couple of steps.

Today I finally found time to mess around with the printer and dive into the electronics. I partially succeeded.

- The X axis movement works just like intended, some minor fixes and that can be ticked off.

- The Y axis is causing problems. It does not know what is forward or backward, it moves in sort of groups of steps, humms and tries to move both ways at the same time. End stops are not known to the Y axis, and it rarely gets close to it.

- the Z axis goes down, don't recognize the end stop to stop, sigh. I managed to get the Up movement working afte some time of fiddling but it moves with the speed of a snail.

A home position is only know to the X axis so far.

But it all still is a success - it moves even if it protests

I will not give up, but it will take very long to get this contraption in working order. Would probably have been faster to purchase a DIY kit instead of building all.

Anyway, I will keep at it but it looks like some time during summer vacation or perhaps in the autumn I will have it working as intended. I have not set a finish date for safety sake.

Please note, I don't want to even sound grumpy, even less be that, I just want to say that it is not solved in an afternoon. All knowledge gaining takes time and shall do so. I will get this contraption going no doubt about it and then you will see some prints ....

/Peter

chipenter · « **Reply #160 on:** March 28, 2016, 03:06:08 PM »

I have two diferent types of stepper motor , two are slitly longer than the outher three and I have to adjust the tiny pot on the driver board for each type outherwize it jitters , I also have to slow the feed rate for the longer ones but are more powerfull .

PeterE · « **Reply #161 on:** March 28, 2016, 03:31:20 PM »

Thanks for the info chipenter!

My motors are all of the same type.

The X axis one sounds and works like I expect a stepper to do. The same goes for the two Z axis motors who also work nicely toghether as expected.

The Y axis motor growls instead of humms so maybe I have to adjust the stepper controller with the pot a bit. Must check that. It may be that it has not enough power, but it has difficulties to run the whole length of the "track". Instead it goes a bit, stops and returns a biot, stops and gopes a bit etc, etc. All while growling and protesting as I see it. Could it be a cabling issue????

The extruder does not move at all - yet. Must check that pot as well.

So three out of five motors behave, and two misbehave and then differently.

The most odd thing is the odd behaviour of the Y axis motor and that puzzles me.

/Peter

chipenter · « **Reply #162 on:** March 28, 2016, 04:25:14 PM »

I adjust the pot with the motor running for smoothenes and power , only takes a small adjustment and you can hear the difference .

picclock · « **Reply #163 on:** March 29, 2016, 02:29:14 AM »

Hi PeterE

The extruder motor is software trapped, so it will not work until head temperature high ~ 160C I think.

If you remove motor you can easily see how hard it is to move Y axis, and fix if required. You can also operate motor and check rotation and torque while it is removed. If you think it is driver just swap out board for extruder driver and retest. It may just be bad connections between motor and driver (I have had this when a Z connector almost pulled out - and it resulted in motors turning in opposite directions sometimes), or it may be that the ratio jumpers set under the driver board are not correct. If you are using the software I posted I hope you altered the steps/mm figures as I am using /32 for all motors except the Z motors which are /4 (hence 1000 steps/mm with 0.8mm pitch M5).

>>Building a machine like a 3D printer feels just like a hurdles race, a number of obstacles to pass on the way.

For me also. So many things that are not well explained, with solutions to be found, like the heat bed nonsense, rafts, bed adhesion etc. Each step a little more knowledge, but so much easier if known in advance.

Happy Easter PeterE

Best Regards

picclock

PeterE · « **Reply #164 on:** March 29, 2016, 04:03:28 PM »

@Chipenter,

Thanks for the tip. Will look at that, but before that I will make myself a quickie non-metal small screwdriver for that particular purpose. I don't want to risk anything being shorted while trimming. Will get back on that.

@Picclock,
Hmmm, OK good to know that there is a dependency lock between extruder motor and heater, but it should be possible to make test runs without using the heater. My informant writes:

"In Pronterface, below the "extrude" button, type in "100" mm, then hit "extrude". Measure how much filament comes out. If it's exactly 100mm, you're done."

Regarding the Y axis movement it is just as smooth as the X axis so I think there is an issue of some sort with either the driver or the cabling. Swapping drivers is a good way to find that out, will try.

Then, Yes, I am changing the values, but before finalizing the settings I want the movements to operate properly. Currently I don't mind slow running, that is safer than if they run fast.

To get over the obstacles I try to write everything down along the way. Sort of creating an info volume at the end. Since taking a lot of pictures on the build and writing steps here, I actually have a lot of it already. I also think it is immensly valuable to be able to discuss and juggle ideas on a forum like this. The maddest ideas are properly chucked out in favor of the more sane ones.

And, Yes, I had a very nice and Happy Easter holiday, hope you had the same!

BR

/Peter

picclock · « **Reply #165 on:** March 29, 2016, 04:13:26 PM »

Hi PeterE
Filament extrusion min temperature is written into firmware which will override any other commands, including gcodes, if they attempt to exceed the printer capability. So it will only work with elevated head temp.

Best regards

Picclock

PeterE · « **Reply #166 on:** March 29, 2016, 04:31:29 PM »

Ah, OK, thanks, then I don't have to go that way.

BR

/Peter

PeterE · « **Reply #167 on:** March 30, 2016, 07:15:10 AM »

I found the reason for why the Y axis motor growled - I had misplaced the connector on the RAMPS board such that only three of the connectors were connected

After re-positioning the connector the sound of the motor was like the rest. But now the motor only runs in one direction

I guess I have crashed the driver. Will test using the extruder driver and hope for the best.

/Peter

ddmckee54 · « **Reply #168 on:** March 30, 2016, 01:48:37 PM »

PeterE:

When I was setting up my 3D printer and checking the calibration on my Bowden tube extruder I used the jog, or "Move Axis", function on the LCD screen.

I selected to jog the extruder, disconnected the Bowden tube from the extruder, told it how many mm I wanted it to move the filament, and then measured the actual movement. It measured to within +/- 0.02mm of what it was supposed to be. I figured that was close enough and motored on to the next calibration step.

I think that I'm finally starting to get past the vertical portion of the learning curve.

Good luck.
Don

PeterE · « **Reply #169 on:** March 30, 2016, 05:39:17 PM »

Hi Don,

Thanks for the tip

I think I saw that alternative when jumping around the menu choices of the display. Will try for sure.

Totally agree about the steep learning curve, but in the end it is rewarding.

BR

/Peter

picclock · « **Reply #170 on:** March 31, 2016, 05:28:37 AM »

Hi PeterE

I can't see how misplugging the motor connector would blow up the driver. One winding would not be connected and the other would be connected to different driver halves but this should not blow it up - perhaps someone else could explain this. Also misconnected would not allow the motor to turn at all as only one winding connected - a bit puzzling.

However, on a software note, the version I supplied you with has a bug, wherein if you set the extruder temperature over 260C it will reset to 210C. You can set the temperatures with gcode but they do not set correctly using the panel. I found this out because of the E3D head assembly instructions tell you to tighten the nozzle at 285C. I just did mine at 259 and it all seems OK. Also checked accuracy of E£D provided head thermister and it was spot on.

Good luck with swiftly resolving your motor issues.

Best Regards

picclock

chipenter · « **Reply #171 on:** March 31, 2016, 05:45:03 AM »

The lerning curve is parrabolic goes on to infinity .

PK · « **Reply #172 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:23:11 AM »

Unplugging a motor whilst the drive is powered will reliably damage the output FETS in any driver IC without a protection circuit either integral to the die, or added to the board. Not sure if it was powered or not.

PeterE · « **Reply #173 on:** March 31, 2016, 04:58:34 PM »

picclock,
Sounds good that the possible damage on either motor or driver is small. Probably something else. Investigations will reveal. Also good to know about the extruder nozzle. I am not far from that one now I think.

chipenter,
So true, the learning curve is really a curve, but a very interesting one.

PK,
Nope, one of my ground rules. Never do physical changes to a powered up electric or electronic circuit. That will always create more problems as well as being possibly hazardous. In this case the machine was powered down and mains feed disconnected. But thanks for the tip, it is always useful to highlight.

BR

/Peter

PeterE · « **Reply #174 on:** April 29, 2016, 12:11:33 PM »

Just for those who wonder if I am going to continue.

I am

but first of all I need a break to get some perspective and find new angles, secondly the outdoor season has started with a couple of projects needing to be done before vacation. A new decking by the house is the one on the go right now. The old boards are becoming too soft for comfort being close to 40 yeas old.

Then another couple of smaller stuff and finalizing with a new outhouse/storage shed closer to autumn.

But I will slip in a note or two if I get something done on the printer. New parts are in the mail.

BR

/Peter

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Author Topic: PeterE builds a 3d Printer (Read 67600 times)