diy sheet metal pinch rollers

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nrml:
Did you have to modify the Vice you have on your Shaper? I had a similar one the next size down on my shaper but I struggled to get any accurate work done because of jaw lift. In a moment of frustration and rage a week or two back, I bought one of these ''ARC Versatile Milling Vices - with swivel base'' http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices

I need to fix the old one, but it has joined that endless list of projects waiting to be done. I'd be very interested in seeing how others fixed thiers.

JHovel:
Beautifully made. Thanks for showing us in such great detail!
While you were posting your progress, I stole some of your design ideas and made one as well. I found your bushing design of the free-wheeling roler prevents rolling tapers. So I made mine without the outside flange on the bushes and turned a taper on the frame sides of the inner flanges, to allow the roller to be scewed as far as the diameter allows.
I also used a large (620mm diameter) wheel off some kind of large valve instead of a crank. I find the spokes on it allow better application of my muscles in all positions - whereas a crank will only work well in either straight pushing or straight pulling position. The inbetween positions where you have to push down or lift up don't work well with wide or thick material.
Works a treat!
Cheers,
Joe

RobWilson:
:clap: :clap: :clap: VERY Nicely done Andrew :thumbup:

Rob

Houtenkrullen:
Andrew, very nice build!
How does your design compensate for the fact that the gears travel when you change the settings of the feed rollers? In the drawings of ausdier I suppose it is done by clever placement of the idler gears?
I ask because I acquired some parts of someone which were meant to be used on
building a set of pinch rollers (3 stainless rolls plus bearing bushings, gears, and sideplates which may not work). He doesn't know how he had planned to make them anymore. I would like to finish them, but now need to design around the parts. There are only three gears though. I probably need to measure them and get a fourth one, or just use two as Andrew did?

Peter

Andrew Wildman:
Thanks all for the comments. Nice to know that people are enjoying the build. :D

Houtenkrullen, The gears on mine are a large module so they can operate over a large range of centre distances. The limit is about 3mm before they feel lumpy, but then the rollers are limited to that anyway as they are only 40mm dia and start to flex too much with material much above that. The design with 4 gears is required with smaller mod gears and probably is a bit better for higher gauge material. The three gears are probably for a pyramid design (google it!). These may be better for higher gauge materials but leave a flat spot at both ends of your work piece. Pays your money takes you choice with the design options

JHovel, That is fast work, you put me to shame. I put a fair bit of clearance in the slots for the 3rd roller bushing, but you are right that your tapering capability is still more limited that a flangeless bush (is that a real term???). I probably will not use these very much and will roll a taper even more seldom. If it becomes annoying I will open up the clearance further. Your rollers look a very useful bit of kit. I like the wheel, although making the handle was the bit of the build I enjoyed most.

nrml, The vice is ok. I clearly got a good one and considering I only paid £40 for it I was quite surprised how good it was. I have eyed up one of those ARC vices for the Omnimil to replace the ageing Elliott one that is on it. I may resort to a full rebuild on the vice it as with a less pitted bottom (not my lack of depth judgement) it could be a lot easier to use.

Ken, I think there are plans on the web for the GH Thomas design. This was just a design I scribbled on the back of a water bill while the wife was watching Bake Off! :smart:

Just waiting for some dog point grub screws to turn up and then this one will be ticked off the list.

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