| Gallery, Projects and General > How do I?? |
| Engraving/marking tools |
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| philf:
--- Quote from: raynerd on August 24, 2015, 08:45:27 AM ---Hi Andrew, the small CNC was sold a year ago when I moved house to pay estate agent fees!!!! :-( Phil, hope all is well, is the clock finished yet? Thanks for the suggestion, I'll do some googling. --- End quote --- Hi Chris, We had dozens of Actograps at work. I bet they all got binned when we shipped production abroad. No - I've done no more on the clock. Instead of time in the workshop I'm getting on with some work in the house at long last. My wife's fed up of bare brick walls and isn't impressed when visitors say "It's got character!" I've been putting it off long enough. I needed to remove the radiator in the hall to knock the last of the old rotten plaster off. Unfortunately, the rad weighs about 4 cwt and was plumbed in with 1 1/2" steel pipe with unions that wouldn't budge. A few weeks ago I set about the steel piping with a hacksaw. Some of it was right up against the floor joists and some against a wall. I could only get about 50mm stroke on the saw at about head height. I had to cut through about 10 pipes to get it all out - it took me about 12 hours! When the rad goes back in it will be plumbed with 15mm copper. Cheers. Phil. |
| PekkaNF:
I have been thinking of marking out some stuff. Sometimes scales, sometimes just some odd markings and sometimes even some decorative markings. Etching have been used in past. Wax to protect and then some ascids and/or dyes. I did etch PC boards, but it is pretty involved with chemicals and UV lamps. Can you make/buy vinyl stencils? How about the sand (media) blasting like they decorate glassware and stuff. I have wondering that. Too steampunk? Pekka |
| awemawson:
Chris I suspect that the school you work at probably has a laser etcher, and although it won't do metal directly, it will using the paint trick :ddb: Spray paint on as a mask, then laser off the bits / text / graphics that you want etching. Dip into suitable etch solution, then remove the paint. |
| RobWilson:
--- Quote from: raynerd on August 24, 2015, 03:34:04 AM --- Just remembered why I don't post like I use to. Back into hibernation. Thanks for the info. So long for now! --- End quote --- I share that sentiment Chris ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,lots of drivel on forums now a days . Any way mate I use one of these wee pencil engravers to mark up tools and the likes . Made in Sweden about £150 new ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but findable for allot less on Ebay . :) Or have a look at this thread http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,10491.msg120083.html#msg120083 Rob |
| joshagrady:
I assume that the "offer of the week" from LIDL/ALDI varies from country to country, but last week the LIDL here had pencil engravers available for €9.99. I've only tried this particular model on a beer bottle, but it seemed to get the job done. An easy way of etching small areas is to paint the surface with a fairly thick layer of nail polish (I remember some fairly strange looks from my S.O. as she was rooting around in my shop one day, and found a bottle of nail polish), and let it dry well. Use a scribe (or similar) to remove the nail polish in the area you want etched (e.g. your name). Take an old phone charger and cut the plug off to separate the leads. Use an alligator clip on one lead to attach to the tool, and a clip on the other holding a cotton bud soaked with a dielectric fluid. (I've used water with table salt, and water with baking soda, both work fine.) Simply rub and press the cotton bud over the area that you've marked with the scribe. If it starts fizzing, you've got things hooked up properly. If not, change the leads. This method, as you know better than I, will produce a bit of gas that you probably don't want to be breathing, so a properly ventilated work area is a good idea. |
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