Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

I need to reverse my lathe jaws!

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vtsteam:
John I know you like to try the unusual, and often succeed despite the potential difficulties. And in any case, learn quite a bit in the process -- as do we while watching. So I'm going to say go for it, if it appeals to you.

There is no guarantee that the scroll will match the teeth and slide groove on the3 jaws afterward, true, and the hardening will be lost, also true.

But, there is also no guarantee that the working surfaces will be substantially altered after, no one knows for sure since it hasn't been triedby anyone here -- these are all guesses.

And parts can be hardened and tempered again. So there are possible complications and some risk, but it's up to you if you want to take them on.

If it was me, and I was inclined to try, I'd either try the anneal, saw off, bolt on method if there was enough meat for the bolt on jaws (and I think change jaws would actually be an advantage over fixed), or if not, anneal, saw off, and braze on new (rather than weld). I'd have first covered the teeth and slot with bar soap to reduce scale from the flame. After brazing I'd re-heat and plunge in oil for hardening, and then temper. The worst scenario would be cracking when hardening, which is why I'd try oil first, over water. If it failed to harden, I'd then try water.

Good luck, and looking forward to a blow-by-blow if you do, and no blame if you don't, too!

ps, it will be tricky maintaining the braze while heating to hardening temp -- silver braze may be too low melting temp, so maybe bronze braze, and maybe even plunge harden immediately after the braze flows and solidifies. Or, localized heating for hardening only the teeth and jaw surfaces might be an option -- you could maybe stay away from the braze joint with a small flame.

Alan Haisley:
Has anyone done a homemade induction heater? You might be able to localize the heat before quenching that way.

Fergus OMore:
Quelle Surprise! but I have repaired the wear to 'correct' the bell mouthing on an old 'Crown' 3 jaw on a Pools Major- which you have probably never heard of.  I used a small Mig welder with mild steel.  You don't have to have hard jaws but, it helps! Again, my father was a far better welder than I will ever be but he 'hard faced' worn cutting tools by has welding but I have read that it can be gas welded too.

You know this isn't rocket science or anything but if one pulls a decent old wood plane to bits, the good ones will have a blade which is actually two metals- one being wrought iron and the other carbon steel. There will be a black edge at the join.  Today, in the efforts to tidy  up, I found a electric planer blade which had a carbide edge. Mine was chipped- so you know!

Years and years before most were born, Dad tipped an old valve seating tool with carbide- it was brazed on. Again, digressing slightly but I have one or two silver soldered  carbide tips -CCMT on steel shanks as boring tools.

Romping away, I have an independent 3 jaw chuck which came off an old Enox baby lathe- probably never heard of that either( he said somewhat grumblingly)

Sorry fellas if I have messed up your theories but what the hell?

Norman
 

trapper:
The theory that you cut the jaws flat and m/c inside/outside jaws to fit on sounds pretty decent -or could you just make a block with slot in drop over existing jaws and remachine it to what you want, no ideal but would be use able,or grip a smaller diameter chuck in the jaws available

chipenter:
Just make some soft jaws http://www.homews.co.uk/page99a.html .

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