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| jcs0001:
Sparky: Thanks for the encouragement. I made the gear this morning with the following setup in my taig mill: A closer image showing the cutter behind the gear blank: The upright rotary table used to divide the gear into 60 teeth: The final result meshes quite well with the gear from the clock: I've tried the gear in the clock and unfortunately it is a little bit too big in diameter (Raynerd you were correct :doh:). I will recalculate the diameter and cut the gear down a bit and then recut the gears (as long as I can get the cutter properly indexed to it). If this doesn't work it will be time to cut another gear blank. It looks like the cutter is in the ball park as far as shape. John. |
| jcs0001:
I decided to cut the first gear down to size and then re cut it in the mill. However I didn't get the cutter aligned properly and it made a mess of the teeth. Since it was still mounted in the mill I decided to cut the remaining teeth to see how it fit for size. Got that done a couple of days ago and found that it does fit. We've had visitors and i've had other obligations so I will have to do further checks and remeasure the screwed up gear before posting anything further. I'll make another blank and with the new information should be able to get closer to making it right. John. |
| raynerd:
Nice job John, look forward to seeing the complete wheel. If you can hand grind a cutter, then a quicker and easier way is to make your cutter is on a disk, cut the entire disk in half and off set the mounting hole for the arbour. That way you get relief and to be honest, a single point tool is often more accurate than a home made multi point in my experience. The slightest amount out of true and you are only cutting on one point of the multi tool anyway. Nice job... More photos of the clock wheel please when completed! |
| jcs0001:
Finally!!! I cut a gear yesterday using the following specs: OD of gear blank - 1.465 in. depth of cut for teeth - 0.079 in. It meshed properly and worked however it seemed a bit "loose" to my eye and I decided to change the specs a bit and cut another. This time I used the following: OD of gear blank - 1.475 in. depth of cut for teeth - 0.074 in. That did the trick and it now meshes nicely and rotates well. I need to reduce the thickness of the gear somewhat, drill and tap for a setscrew and drill some lightening holes in it. Considering the lack of horsepower that a clock has there will need to be some testing by my clock repair friend to see if this is indeed alright. I will clean the teeth up with crocus cloth or something similar so that it runs as smooth as possible. At least now if I need to make another I know I'm quite close to where it needs to be. Raynerd - just noticed your reply. You are correct in that this 3 toothed cutter is a bit out and one tooth cuts more than the others. Will have to experiment with other types of cutters in future. I have recently purchased a plastic 40 tooth gear for my lathe at a cost of about $55. The existing gear has been cracked since I purchased the lathe. I plan to make another out of aluminium as I don't plan to buy any more at that price. It should be easy since I can use the existing gear to make a cutter and it's a lot bigger than this gear. Once I've completed clock gear I'll take a few more photos. Thanks to all for your encouragement and help. John. |
| jcs0001:
The "final" photos. It will be up to my clock repair friend to test this out and he won't get it until sometime into October as he lives a couple of hours away. John. |
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