| The Craftmans Shop > New from Old |
| JCB 803 Saga |
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| appletree:
I’m far better at welding when the work is horizontal, especially with stick, all the old sayings fit at times, did the pigeon get away, weld inclusion in the slag etc, actually i’m not too bad. I have a 160 amp inverter stick welder, so hand and light weight and easy to use, perhaps not quite as forgiving as the big oil cooled ones we had at work, but they were 3 phase probably 500amp or more . |
| awemawson:
I used my big 3 phase Butters AMT3205 Mig with 1 mm wire and pure argon. Why? as it's the easiest of my machines to wheel outside. Why pure argon? As years ago I bought a cylinder to bubble argon through molten aluminium to remove the dissolved hydrogen, and it now get shared by my Tig and this mig welder. It's a fearsome beast quite capable of punching holes in 8 mm plate if you turn it up full whack :lol: However it can also be turned down and tamed :ddb: |
| wgw:
Mr. Mawson- seat cover- fertilizer bag. Mine has air-con as well. As well as no windows. |
| awemawson:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: |
| awemawson:
Well today I was determined to get the seat out to examine it and see what refurbishment possibilities there were. The upper seat frame is on a slider that wouldn't slide, (I later discovered that the handle that releases it was missing) Held down by four 8 mm cap screws - the heads are in the channel, the bolt pokes upwards through the seat frame with nuts above. The front pair were easy - nice and accessible - the the rear pair obviously had been put in with the slider backwards, and it wouldn't slide :bang: Nuts were loose enough to turn but of course the cap screw turned as well with no way of holding it. No room for an angle grinder. After much head scratching, I reckoned the only way was to use a nut splitter and fracture the nuts in-situ. I had to thin down my smallest splitter for it to fit against the frame, and then with quite a bit of acrobatics the nuts were vanquished and the seat was OUT :ddb: |
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