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Sheetmetal Bending

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Yorkshireman:
Hallo
I am about to start a new model, where a lot bending parts (angle plates of 90 degrees) will be needed.
These will be laser parts from 1mm steel plate.
My idea is now to have the laser cut a dashed line (1 mm cuts and 1 mm spaces) along the bend line.
Will this work? And would this method have any effect on a bending allowance?
The final assembly will be by soldering, so the dashed lines will filled and not be visible (I hope).
Thanks for any hints.
Johannes

Fergus OMore:
My question is 'Why?' As far as I can recall 1mm is quite standard old manganese steel car body thickness and as such will bend on a decent vice failing the availability of something better.
If you Mig weld, you have to be reasonably proficient to do a right angled join and if you skip weld and fill the rest with solder, you will have to use a car body solder, after tinning it with solder paste use tallow  wipe  and then body file it.

I might have got the thing wrong all wrong but it sounds like really hard unnecessary work

Norman

hermetic:
If you mount two similar height vices on your bench, with the jaws in line (clamp a piece of angle iron in both vices before you fit the second one) you can use two pieces of angle iron clamped in both vices with the metal to be bent clamped between them, and the bend line just visible. Perfect bend every time!
Phil

mattinker:
I agree with Norman, why? I would bend them as they are!!

How big are the pieces?

Regards, Matthew

awemawson:
Mark your part, heavily scribe along the inside of your bend line, and bend - like folding card, you'll find the bend bends nice and sharply.

I've been known to cut a groove on sheet with a centre drill when the bend needs to be tight.

Here's an example I did a little while ago:

http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9141.msg100540.html#msg100540

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