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| machining rough castings |
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| Pakrattuk:
Hi, not posted before (apart from my joining post) but hope you wont hold that against me. Looking for some advice (maybe ad -vice) on how to hold some rough castings for swan neck clamps to try and machine them reasonably square and somewhat similar to each other. Have flycut the bottom surface to give me some sort of datum to work off of but would like to get the opposite face parallel to the bottom and also the clamping face parallel to the other two faces. The rest doesn't need to be sqaure to anything as far as I can see but think these three faces should be machined for some sort of accurate clamping. I may be wrong on all counts and they don't need machined at all but any advice gratefully accepted. Think I may have attatched a photo of said castings TIA Pakrattuk |
| CrazyModder:
I would simply clamp them with a screw at one side of the slot, machine down the accessible parts, then add another screw at the other side of the slot (before removing the first screw). As the part should not move at any point and you already have a reference surface on the bottom, there should be no noticable step between the operations. |
| mexican jon:
I'd machine them on a magnetic chuck :beer: |
| Pakrattuk:
Thanks for the replies, might try the holding down with a screw method.The magnetic chuck idea - if only - off for a look for one on ebay now Pakrattuk |
| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: mexican jon on May 25, 2015, 04:22:46 PM ---I'd machine them on a magnetic chuck :beer: --- End quote --- Would these stay on magnetic chuck on their own? I got four like that. Put them on vise. It's not necessary to mill the sides and definately you don't want to make them too thin, but I had a vise and wanted to get four done fast. 1) Sides: put a thin plate trough the slot to align them, skimmed the top flat and then put them deeper in vise, skimmed side on top of a parallel. Then trued both sides. 2) Bottom: Both sides are parallel, time to tinker bottom straigh. I removed minimum, checked that "nose" will fine. 3) Top: bottom on top of parallel, clamped on sides in the vise. I just used this setting and milled all of them once. 4) Nose, you want this a little negative, something like -2 degrees, then you have positive grip even when clamp is level https://www.cromwell.co.uk/images/product/IND/425/IND4251015N_1.jpg IMHO, nose bottom machining is important, top only close to nose where washer and bot goes, and tail, where it contacts block. Pekka |
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