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| Colchester Triumph 2000 repairs and recomission |
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| vintageandclassicrepairs:
Hi Everyone, My name is John, (another one!!) I have been joined the forum for some time but have only occasionally posted replies to others threads So heres the saga of the Colchester lathe I bought a couple of years ago but am only now getting it up and running now due to various and protracted reasons :bang: I have it running from an inverter, more of which later on. When I got it running and was working my way through the gears when on engaging one of the high range a knock started :(. I quickly shut it down and went about searching for the problem, it soon was obvious that the gearbox input drive pulley was loose on the spindle, both spindle and pulley + keyways were damaged !! I spent some time searching on the net looking for any information, blogs or videos on how to take the clutch shaft out of the gearbox for repair, I found only one youtube video but the guy took the video after he had it all back together :scratch: and a photo of a page which showed a little more than the drawings in the handbook Hopefully what will follow will help anyone else who may need to repair their Triumph 2000 lathe ??? Of course I found several further problems as I dug into the gubbins :bugeye: (I took some of the photos later as I had not planned this posting at the strip down stage) To get at the inner end of the input/clutch the splashguard and cover over the mechanical brake needs to be removed, Then remove the brake drum and its workings Theres a large plug with an extension that forms part of the centrifugal brake (?) that has to be removed to access an allen screw and large washer that keeps the spindle in place. Third pic shows how I removed the plug, it has a 3/8 UNC thread in the centre. Remove the allen screw in the spindle centre with the large washer, Dont lose the bronze thrust washer !! Remove the 3 allen screws from the seal housing inside the pulley, the housing has 2, 1/4unc threaded holes which act as a puller when 2 of the screws are threaded into them, once the seal housing frees the main casting the spindle can be removed ! More to follow Regards John |
| vintageandclassicrepairs:
Hi All, Of course I forgot to mention that I removed the gear selectors and their mounting, dont lose the detent plungers and springs :bang: When the clutch spindle has been removed , what happens? One or both clutches and the thick washer between them fall to the bottom of the Gear casing !! Another thick washer with countersunk inner fits with the countersink towards the shoulder at the ball bearing end To get some room to fish out the clutches for inspection and to aid reassembly later on I needed to move/ remove the spindle (G) that has the brake drum fitted. Prise out the oil seal at the brake drum end and remove the bearing circlip Remove the blanking cap from the drive pulley end and tap the spindle end until the bearings clear the housing, then lift the spindle clear as in photo Its a fiddly job to accomplish without further dismantling but it can be done with a little patience The original spindle/ pulley diamater was 1.062in. this one had almost 0.040 wear at the outer end :doh: After some research and thought I arrived at the conclusiuon that the most convenient repair would be to source a pulley with 1.000in inner diamater, The local bearing shop had one for me next day, its a taper lock type and uses a 1/4in. wide keyway A friend of mine is a very good welder and has the same welder as "Doubleboost" , He ran a bead along the damaged side of the keyways I set the spindle up between centres on my old lathe, it ran true at the bearing surfaces :beer: After machining to size, I set it up on the milling machine to cut /enlarge the keyway to 1/4in When I remove the clutches I found that the clutch selector fork was "toast" :doh: How I made a new one in the next post John |
| vintageandclassicrepairs:
Hi All, 150+ views and no comments or responces :scratch: As the old clutch fork was worn to death and had previously been built up with braze, I needed to make a new one, The arm that operates the fork/clutches moves in an arc, so the fork must be able to move up and down in its slot as the arm operates I measured the distance between the operating arm and the clutch engaging boss, then finding a suitable piece of phosphor bronze just the right size in the "come in handy" box, I set it up 5mm off centre in the 4 jaw chuck and machined it as in the photos I took a light cut to mark the highest point on the outer diamater where the pivot pin would be fitted before parting the piece off. I marked where the pin was going to go and drilled to suit the 3/8in. pin, and milled a small flat area around the pin hole I then set the piece in the vice and centered it up, I set up a boring head to the diamaters then off set the piece + and - 0.040in and bored the hole and outer shoulder eccentric, then reversed it to do the other side Then cut the fork off in the mill I silver soldered in the pivot pin and triall fitted the fork :( I did not have enough eccentricity to allow the fork travel the required distance So a further setup to increase the eccentricity was needed, as in the photos, another 0.020 either siide was enough !! To refit the parts !!! The engagement boss must first be sat on the gearbox floor, then the fork is fitted in place by removing the clutch operating arm from the outside of the lathe allowing the inner arm to pivot further towards the drive pulley end of the gearbox Wriggle the fork and boss into place into the pivot arm, Fit the chuck end clutch assembly into place and bring the fork and boss up to meet it, Make sure the inner ramps line up with the clutch rollers and pop the boss onto the clutch and engage the clutch, it should all stay in place Grease the thrust washer that fits between the clutches and stick it in place to the clutch already fitted the pulley end clutch and gear can now be wriggled into the casing and the drive spindle fitted from the outside, Line up the inner ramps with the clutch rollers before engaagine the spindle into the splines All going well the drive spindle should slide all the way through easily Then fit the bronze thrust washer, the steel washer with pin and the allen screw I used some threadlock fluid on this screw. The plug with the centrifugl brake centre can then be refitted and the retaining grubscrew tightened The next post will be about repairing the drum brake which had suffered from someone with size 14 boots :doh: John |
| micktoon:
Good post well presented :thumbup: , Keep up the good work :clap: , Cheers Mick |
| awemawson:
Interesting stuff and you are obviously making good progress. One comment I'd make is that your pictures are too large - makes viewing quite a problem as once one is scrolled to see it in bits the scroll bars for the others vanish :( this means I've just been seeing one or two per post. 640x480 is a universally good size with very adequate detail. |
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