Harden a locking pin

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petertheterrible:
I second what vtsteam has said.
Possible remarks that might be helpful are:
1 Tractor universals are standardized and have different sized gradings in either SAE or EURO.
2 You can probably get a replacement at the local farmers supply as their is a chance that it won't be machine specific.
3 PTO shafts are sold complete or you can buy only the parts required.
4 When you buy a replacement shaft it will be longer than required in general and will need to be shortened.
5 Fit both sides without being intact and measure the max travel by holding and gestimating the max travel required before cutting (Fully up and down position).
6 Not to be smug but it's a lawnmower and not a stumpgrinder, exercise due caution.
7 Nearly all slasher type mowers have an output speed of around 560 rpm.
8 If there isn't a problem with the gearbox or clutch, you may be overstraining the machine cutting to thick grass with to low a setting.
9 A problem rarely experienced by new types of machines is the clogging of the machine, larger machines have more wind and thrust grass more evenly out of the machine, but this can be a problem with small machines and can cause driveline problems.
10 Sharpen cutting blades.

petertheterrible:
This might sound counterintuitive but jerking parts pf poor fit seldom cause work hardening, the bolt just gums away at the contact point. Work hardening actually is occurs besides the contact point. The killer actually is structural failure similar to when you bend a piece of wire until it breaks. The steel actually softens unlike a rolling action where molecular compression occurs, hardening the metal.

With things like mowers please, please, please use KISS, as this will most likely be the most effective and cost saving principle.

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