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Tailstock rebuild...with pics this time!

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Brass_Machine:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on April 22, 2009, 09:26:36 PM ---...

A little forwards planning does help, or mates not too far away, who can make the bits for you.


Bogs

--- End quote ---

That's my problem... I don't have anyone that close. I want to change out the bearings in my lathe... but I know there is a spacer that needs to be turned down a little....

I will figure it out.

Eric

websterz:

--- Quote from: Brass_Machine on April 22, 2009, 09:35:18 PM ---
--- Quote from: bogstandard on April 22, 2009, 09:26:36 PM ---...

A little forwards planning does help, or mates not too far away, who can make the bits for you.


Bogs

--- End quote ---

That's my problem... I don't have anyone that close. I want to change out the bearings in my lathe... but I know there is a spacer that needs to be turned down a little....

I will figure it out.

Eric

--- End quote ---

I have turned many a part on the mill...but I have never milled on the lathe. Go figure.  ::)

bogstandard:
Eric,


--- Quote ---but I know there is a spacer that needs to be turned down a little....

--- End quote ---

You have a mill, then face the end rather than turning it.

Bogs

Darren:

--- Quote from: Brass_Machine on April 22, 2009, 09:35:18 PM ---
--- Quote from: bogstandard on April 22, 2009, 09:26:36 PM ---...

A little forwards planning does help, or mates not too far away, who can make the bits for you.


Bogs

--- End quote ---

That's my problem... I don't have anyone that close. I want to change out the bearings in my lathe... but I know there is a spacer that needs to be turned down a little....

I will figure it out.

Eric

--- End quote ---

Eric, you can do this on the lathe, before or after you fit the bearings, you don't need another lathe  :thumbup:

websterz:
Continuing on with the mods, here is one I have wanted to do for a long time...



My tailstock casting has a boss cast right into the side, that makes the mod just that much easier. Some castings require you to mill a flat. I drilled a half inch hole and installed a grade 8 1/2-13 capscrew and nut, shortened for clearance...





Then I drilled the bolt thru with a 5/16" bit, you can make out the thru hole in the last pic.

The cam is made out of a piece of half inch drill rod (silver steel) turned and threaded for a 5/16-18 Nylock nut. The lever is a piece of 3/16" drill rod press fit in place.





The actuating rod is another piece of 1/2" drill rod, tapped on one end for 5/16-18 and drilled thru with a 3/8" bit on the other. I milled flats on the cam end of the rod. The larger diameter hole in the cam end is for wiggle room when assembling...you'll need it.



The locking plate is milled from mild steel to fit between the ways and with plently of clearance below the bed so it moves without binding. The hole is 5/16", the slot is 1/2" to capture the bolt head. Doing it this way allows finer adjustment when tuning the cam. I turned the bolt one flat at a time until I got the cam just right. I will add a setscrew tomorrow to keep the bolt head from slipping out when I remove the tailstock.

That about sums up the camlock mod. Total working time about 4 hours of pure madmodder pleasure! Tomorrow I tackle the set-over adjustment mod.  :proj:




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