The Shop > Tools
That suds pump.
DavidA:
..I'll re check everything but I'm fairly sure the plate says 415 volt...
On checking I find that there is no plate on the unit. So I must have been thinking about a different machine.
There appears to have been a variety of different motors fitted to the various versions.
So I'll settle for using the original connection to the Lathe..
I can confirm that it does indeed weight around 43 Kilo (as stated in the handbook). Hence the need for a block and tackle to remove it.
Dave.
hopefuldave:
Phil, that looks very similar to what's in mine! At the top of the pic the four large ceramic resistors are the bleeds across the reservoir caps, you should just about see those below that board. You can probably buzz out to find the track which all four bleed resistors connect to and verify that it connects dead-short to all four reservoir capacitors - this is where your neutral wants to go (I managed to do it, just, without unsoldering the caps), I think I used a 6BA x 1/2" cheesehead through the board and brass nut, cleaned and polished before I started, proper tin-lead solder, of course! Onto the spare 1/4" or so of thread sticking up (on the side visible in your pic) I crimped then soldered a male blade/Lucas (tinned brass) to take the roving Neutral. That's about all it needs to fool it into thinking it's being fed 415+ volts :-)
It does, of course, invalidate all warranties, approvals and certifications, probably responsible for climate change, economic collapse and the English cricket team's appalling performance in the Test series too!
philf:
Thanks Dave,
I'll have a go when I get a spare hour or so. I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers
Phil.
philf:
--- Quote from: hopefuldave on May 24, 2015, 11:07:49 AM ---It does, of course, invalidate all warranties, approvals and certifications, probably responsible for climate change, economic collapse and the English cricket team's appalling performance in the Test series too!
--- End quote ---
Dave,
So far so good. There were 4 pads with through holes on the top of the board available so I used them and ran 4 silicone insulated wires to the neutral.
Much to my surprise the display switched on and the fan started running at only 120v input but at 190v a relay pulled in so I guess it may have worked at that.
I smelt something like a capacitor frying so switched off. It was actually my variac which hasn't been powered up for years - must need a clean.
I'll try to connect a motor up tomorrow night. If it works OK it will go on my Fobco 7/8 bench drill.
I can't get my head round how connecting the live to 2 of the inputs helps.
You misjudged the England cricket team - thankfully!
Cheers
Phil.
hopefuldave:
So far so good indeed! And the fastest Century on record, I sorely underestimated them :S
Using two of the Live inputs is just to give the rectifier an easier time - the current will (approximately, assuming good matching of the diodes in it) share the mains current.
Glad it seems to work, have you got the programming manual for the ACS300? I have a .pdf copy I can email if you need it...
Cheers,
Dave H. (the other one)
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