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Red lathe woes..or 'The joy of owning a piece of history'
PekkaNF:
If I had taper reamer I would try it first. On one Myford 10 copy spindle taper seemed off big time, light - very light touch of MT-reamer cleaned it very well. One adapter I managed to bugger up royal, probably I got oo greedy. I have read of people getting MT reamer stuck on spindle, best to have hole trough spindle.
MT2 taper needs a long slender boring bar - small cuts.
Pekka
vtsteam:
I bored the #1 Morse taper on my Gingery tailstock quill using the blue it, try, then adjust method, and it does indeed take even a slimmer boring bar. But it can be done. I do wonder in this case, if the hole has been machined badly by someone else, as apparently happened, would a morse taper reamer center properly, or just follow the messed up hole? A single point tool bores true.
DavidA:
I mentioned earlier that I was worried that a reamer would tend to follow the damaged hole instead of truing it up.
I think I will go for a beefy extension to hold a slim boring bar and carefully cut a new taper taking the very minimum I can out of the spindle.
If all else fails I could bore it out parallel, fit a sleeve. Then cut a new taper in the sleeve.
Dave.
vtsteam:
David if you do that, you can maximize the end size of the main bar if you offset the hole in the end (from center) enough to just allow a small degree of cutting overhang with the cutting bar.
That would be just enough to keep the thicker bar centered in the taper hole while the cutting bar is cutting.
Hope what I just wrote is comprehensible!!
PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: DavidA on April 20, 2015, 07:02:42 PM ---I mentioned earlier that I was worried that a reamer would tend to follow the damaged hole instead of truing it up.
I think I will go for a beefy extension to hold a slim boring bar and carefully cut a new taper taking the very minimum I can out of the spindle.
If all else fails I could bore it out parallel, fit a sleeve. Then cut a new taper in the sleeve.
Dave.
--- End quote ---
I realise that, but my point is that if most of the taper is fine and concentric and only the mouth of it excentric, then chances are good of truing it (I had this case). If error is big then you need to true it, I have tried similar and it was not easy to me. To the extent that I'm entertaining idea of small slender ID grinder for the final "lick". Very little, very gently.
Pekka
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