The Shop > Tools

Anybody build Dan Gelbart angled laser centre finder?

<< < (30/34) > >>

vtsteam:
Pekka, for layout you want a fast-drying  thin-build hard solvent-removable color.

Oil colors are slow drying and undergo chemical change to harden. They are not solvent removable once cured, They tend to flake when scratched, rather than leave a thin line. Acrylics are faster but also also not solvent removable, and very elastic, so hard to scratch in a clean line. Both are high build. Neither is a good choice for layout work.

Usually real layout colors are dissolved by alcohol or stronger solvents like acetone. They flash dry as the solvent evaporates.  They often use dye colors, not opaque pigments to keep the build low. They scratch with clean lines. If you are going to try to make your own from pigments and common ingredients, you might consider shellac with a lot of thinner (denatured alcohol/meths) as a starting point for a vehicle. And a dye pigment would be better than opaques, since they are finer.

But markers are so much easier and available, I'd say if it isn't just a matter of curiosity, just use markers. Markers and layout colors are very similar -- fast dry solvent based dyes.

I can understand the internet confusion -- it relates to the difference between layout and spotting. Spotting colors used for hand scraping are not supposed to dry, but to transfer marks from one surface to another. Therefore they are oil based -- and non-drying oils at that. So the two kinds of "blue" (layout blue and spot blue) are completely different in composition and purposes.

Arbalist:
Here in the UK we normally refer to them as Marking Blue (non drying) and Layout Fluid. If memory serves "Micrometer" brand marking blue came in small flat tins or small tubes. It's all messy stuff though if you're not careful. Glad I switched to markers! I have both Blue and Red ones but much prefer Blue.

I've decided to go with a spindle mounted Laser as it suits my needs better. I've come up with an adjustable angle setup as well, just need to think about what battery to use. Sadly other chores are getting in the way at the moment, hopefully work on it starts soon, maybe next week some time.

appletree:
As Instrument fitters we used to put a ring of marking blue on the eye end of a Watchmakers eye glass and say to the Apprentice come and look at this, they walked off with a ring of blue round their eye.
A tube of marking Blue lasts forever, I doubt the Engineering profession all put together have used a full tube, it's a bit like Dog Poo it gets everywhere.

vtsteam:
I finished off a tube of marking blue in this present lathe construction (bought in 2001), and had to switch to artist's Prussian blue oils (which I had on hand).

PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: vtsteam on May 12, 2015, 04:13:28 PM ---I finished off a tube of marking blue in this present lathe construction (bought in 2001), and had to switch to artist's Prussian blue oils (which I had on hand).

--- End quote ---

How do you work with that? I tried some scraping long time ago and tube of oil color was what I tried. I had hard time getting a thin film of color on steel and aluminium. I think I tried pretty much everything only way that work somewhat was a little dot of color on glass, some turpentine a little on brayer and then rolling on clean class until it was all spread and then constant pressure application with brayer onto transfer surface. Palm worked better but blue does not fit to my complexion  :lol:

Generally too many variable and I gave up because I lost faith on what I was doing.

Pekka

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version