The Shop > Wood & Stuff
Banjo Build
efrench:
Old planer blades are a good source of high carbon or high speed steel for making scraper type tools. Car shock absorber rods are usually HSS and can be ground into gouges. Files are a bit iffy as they are prone to cracking. Be sure to wear adequate face protection when turning. Scraper tools should be ground with an included angle between 60 and 80 degrees. Use 60 degrees for softer wood and up to 80 for hard woods (hardness not type).
Putting longer handles on the tools will make them easier to control. My main roughing gouge has a 36" handle.
S. Heslop:
I think i've built something very silly.
Still thinking about how i'm going to do the toolpost. Adjusting the cut with the slots in the base were my original idea but i'd have to get it all aligned between each cut. Just advancing the tool in the toolpost would probably work alot better. Facing it with a bit of steel would probably also help, since I can see the tool wanting to squash the wood beneath it from the force of the cut.
Still no idea if this'll even work though, might not be rigid enough to handle the cutting forces (even if it's just cutting wood).
RobWilson:
--- Quote from: efrench on May 01, 2015, 04:43:41 AM --- Car shock absorber rods are usually HSS .
--- End quote ---
You sure about that ? :scratch:
Rob
efrench:
--- Quote from: RobWilson on May 01, 2015, 03:19:08 PM ---
--- Quote from: efrench on May 01, 2015, 04:43:41 AM --- Car shock absorber rods are usually HSS .
--- End quote ---
You sure about that ? :scratch:
Rob
--- End quote ---
Yes. It's easy to tell. HSS will create orange sparks when ground. High carbon steel sparks will be yellow.
efrench:
--- Quote from: S. Heslop on May 01, 2015, 03:01:58 PM ---
I think i've built something very silly.
Still thinking about how i'm going to do the toolpost. Adjusting the cut with the slots in the base were my original idea but i'd have to get it all aligned between each cut. Just advancing the tool in the toolpost would probably work alot better. Facing it with a bit of steel would probably also help, since I can see the tool wanting to squash the wood beneath it from the force of the cut.
Still no idea if this'll even work though, might not be rigid enough to handle the cutting forces (even if it's just cutting wood).
--- End quote ---
I think you would be better off with turning the original toolpost 90 degrees and make a beefier tool that can handle a two or three inch overhang. One easy to make boring tool for wood is to drill a hole in the end of a 3/4" mild steel rod and insert either a round or square HSS tool bit in it. Secure it with a set screw. The hole can be anywhere from 90 degrees to the axis to on the axis. Broken endmills work well for this.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version