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| How do I take up the slack in assembly |
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| steampunkpete:
Um, how would the bore of this worm gear wear exactly? I've seen a very small number of applications where a worm has rotated on a shaft (as opposed to rotated with a shaft) but they all were configured with the worm made as one part with a pinion. (This is another thread where pictures would help). Are you trying to fit a worm with a metric bore onto an imperial shaft of a close size? (or vice versa) You could spend a long time on this and end up with a ruined part or concentricity issues. A worn bore would suggest the worm thread could be worn, so more backlash that you would like. For all the time and trouble I'd be tempted to carefully measure up and get a new worm. |
| John Hill:
Dont fret, the worm came on a shaft with a matching gear wheel in one assembly along with a clutch to disengage the work from its shaft, it also came caked with lanolin and wool fibres and is quite likely a relic of the long gone textile industry in this town. For all I know the worm spent all its working life with the shaft turning, the worm and wheel stationery and the clutch being engaged infrequently. No, I will not be buying a new worm, if I went down that route I might as well buy the entire CNC router table and spend the time I saved polishing my workshop equipment instead of using it! :beer: |
| petertheterrible:
1 How about shimming it? (If it's not a customers project.) 2 Or a double cats claw. (Six tapped holes and grub screws) 3 Or a male to female stress relief. (Male one side, female the other to take the parts with spiral cut to protect the steppers when overburdened.) |
| John Hill:
Thanks Peter, some good ideas there, this is my home shop project to build a router table. I am going to chuck the worm today and see if any of my lathe tools can work the metal, files just bounce off. |
| vtsteam:
If they can't bore it, and it's heat treated steel, John, you can probably anneal it, bore, then re-heat, plunge, and temper to whatever color you prefer. |
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