Building a New Lathe

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awemawson:
I reckon that you inherited Rob Wilson’s shiny camera !

Nice job, teasing aside .

tom osselton:
Nice!

vtsteam:
Thanks Tom, Andrew! :beer: . Just some 180, 320, and 600 grit sandpaoper by hand, and a rattle can paintjob.
uhhhh......I'm nowhere close to Rob. His work was true art.

I feel like these days I'm going so slowly on the lathe -- must be age, I used to do things faster. Now I hesitate a lot and sort of doubt what I've chosen to do.

Well, enough of that, I do have switches installed on the change box. Though connected to nothing. The left 6 toggle switches are A, B, C , D, E and F for selecting the pitch. The two smaller toggles upper right are Leadscrew ON/OFF and Leadscrew Direction. The big lower toggle switch is 3 position, Spindle Direction, center off.

The two direction switches flip horizontally, the rest vertically.

I've worked out a pitch table. For now it will just have to be a paper label, though I'd like at some point to be able to do a nicer brass plate of it. A few attempts so far at transferring resist from a laser printout on magazine paper to a metal plate hasn't worked out.

AdeV:
Nice to see my name there next to the finests of feeds! :lol:

--- Quote from: vtsteam on January 18, 2021, 11:47:45 AM ---
I've worked out a pitch table. For now it will just have to be a paper label, though I'd like at some point to be able to do a nicer brass plate of it. A few attempts so far at transferring resist from a laser printout on magazine paper to a metal plate hasn't worked out.

--- End quote ---

I found that sticky-back vinyl (the sort you put through vinyl cutters) makes an extremely good medium for transferring laser toner to copper sheet. Haven't tried with brass. All I did was stick a piece of vinyl onto some paper, run that through the printer, cut out & stick the resulting print to a piece of copper clad board & run the whole thing through a lightly modified laminating machine (I took the clutch out, so it doesn't jam up) four or five times; I generally got 100% transfer of the toner. It can still be a bit "holey" though, so I'd recommend good thick lines for both the dividers and the numbers, and you still have to go over it with a magnifying glass & touch up with a Sharpie pen if needed.

I've not tried it myself; but I'd consider printing the chart as a negative (i.e. white letters on a black background); etch that, then paint the result & scrape off the top to leave the letters in brass colour, and the background in black (or whatever paint you used) - just for better clarity.

PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: AdeV on January 19, 2021, 03:59:16 AM ---...
I found that sticky-back vinyl (the sort you put through vinyl cutters) makes an extremely good medium for transferring laser toner to copper sheet. Haven't tried with brass. All I did was stick a piece of vinyl onto some paper, run that through the printer, cut out & stick the resulting print to a piece of copper clad board & run the whole thing through a lightly modified laminating machine (I took the clutch out, so it doesn't jam up) four or five times; I generally got 100% transfer of the toner. It can still be a bit "holey" though, so I'd recommend good thick lines for both the dividers and the numbers, and you still have to go over it with a magnifying glass & touch up with a Sharpie pen if needed.
....

--- End quote ---

Something like this?:

I have been testing lately several transfer papers, laminator, cold transfer (acetone) etc. They all sem to work - sort of! But they are very sensitive for whatever changes on printter settings, color cadridge (got another ink to my laser printter and it does not work with hard transparency and same laminator anymore.

Tired this:

And it works sometimes pretty good with high gloss coated paper (same printer&caridge works more consistelly with hot laminator). It is really sensitive to acetone/ethanol mix, timing and pressure. Too much/strong solvent and lines start to skid all over the places. Too little/weak and image might not transfer.

All transfer methods have some paper fiber stuck on them. It does not matter if the lines are fatty, but with very thin lines and small spaces it does matter.

Chinese yellow transfer paper has worked easiest this far.

My questions: Do release papers (i.e. non standard print or release papers) screw up printer or ink cadridge? Many release papers are siliconized and I will not allow that near anything I want to glue or paint.

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