Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Building a New Lathe
PekkaNF:
Taper roller bearings are very good choice to this aplication, unless very high speed is needed (then angular contact bearings would be better).
Taper roller bearing arragement is whole lot stiffer than same size ball bearing set. You have less wiggle room with taper rolle bearings. You may need to rotate the spindle and force it one way and then another. Tighten loading nut until spindle stops rotaing (under motor or manual power) and then wiggle/pound spindle a little with soft mallet until spindle rotates even. It is very important that spindle turns close to constant torgue, this will tell that spindle/housing is concentric. Repeat until no play (and spindle can hardly turn, but turns with contant power) and leave glue to set. This should force bearings to locate as concentric as possible. After glue is set (for outer rings), it is time to adjust play (or slightest preload) for testrun. This has worked for me, sometimes the spindle would refuse run right and I had to take it all appart and assemble parts in diferent orientation. Shims are very wedgy and all nuts run askew.
Pekka
krv3000:
:) :) :)
vtsteam:
Thanks Bob, Pekka :beer:
This journal is going slower than the other...must be where there was some sand inclusion. I can't see anything, but I have to sharpen the bit after every second bore increase, I'm quitting for the day, there's 0.300" left to go, and MAYBE I'll get through that tomorrow. :whip:
Next time I do anything remotely like this again, I'll use a baked sand core in a core box instead of a greensand core, and shape it with journals in place, and a LOT closer to finished bore in size. I chalk this LOOOONG boring, boring session up to a few years of forgetting about what I used to do. Oh well, almost done.
vtsteam:
Well Finally! I got it done. :med: Bearing fit test:
Homebrewer:
Bravo!! With the paint, it looks like a professional job!
I am curious though; do you plan for any bearing covers to keep swarf out?
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