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Wiring advise for lighting.
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: John Stevenson on March 06, 2015, 08:53:45 AM ---Easiest way to improve lighting in there would be to clad the ceiling in plasterboard. Current prices are about £6.20 per 8 x 4 sheet of 9.5mm thick.
Would also improve the situation if you insulated in between but that won't affect the lighting.
--- End quote ---
The ceiling is fairly low as it is. I know it wouldn't add much thickness, but I don't like the idea of the lights protruding down on top of that. I've decided to mount the lights inside the gaps between the rafters since, even though it'd reduce the amount of light, it'll hopefully protect them from my dumb ass trying to move boards around.
Thanks for the advise everyone. Yeah I forgot to mention but was meaning to, but the garage is on it's own breaker. I guess i'll get started on getting these lights up then since everything seems to be in order.
buffalow bill:
Simon
If there isn’t a consumer unit in the garage (a garage supply unit) then I would expect other lighting to be on the same circuit as the garage lights, try lighting the other side of the brick wall or outside lighting.
According to BS7671 current rating for 1.5mm PVC T&E installation reference method C (clipped direct) is 19.5 amps.
Volt drop for the above is 29mV/amp/meter
The volt drop should be calculated from the supply point to the load, and should be less than 6%
If you do the sums, maxVD = 13.8 volts, with a load of 2amps max cable run will be 13.8/0.058 x 2 = 119 meters of twin and earth.
Fluorescent lighting load current = 2 x total wattage/voltage . This is due to the fact that fluorescent lighting is an inductive load. The value of 2 may have reduced since I retired but that was the value I used.
From what you said using 1.5mm cable is suitable for this application, till the cows come home. Take note of VT advise re connections.
Hope this helps but as JS said plaster board help a lot and a lick of white paint on the walls.
Bill
DMIOM:
--- Quote from: S. Heslop on March 06, 2015, 09:30:28 AM ---....... I've decided to mount the lights inside the gaps between the rafters since, even though it'd reduce the amount of light, it'll hopefully protect them from my dumb ass trying to move boards around......
--- End quote ---
Simon, just a couple of thoughts:
1/ Even if initially its just in those bays where you're popping the lights, I'd freshen the covering with a lick of white paint (pref gloss) including the joists to either side.
2/ I'd suggest using fittings with covers/guards for when the inevitable happens and you swing a board up towards the light
3/ To get started, and possibly to help with compliance, you could always power your array of lights from a 13A plug?
Dave
John Rudd:
One thing maybe worth a moments thought.....add an emergency light in case of power cut/ blown fuse/ act of God etc.......just so you can see when the lights go out....??? :zap:
lordedmond:
Current capacity is a wee bit higher than you think
See here
http://www.elecsa.co.uk/Technical-Library/Wiring-Regulations/Inspection-and-Testing/Current-Carrying-Capacity-of-Cables.aspx
Looks to be 20 amp clipped direct so ok for a 5 amp protected lighting CCT
For lighting you would be ok with 1 mm
Please do not put the lights on a RCD protected circuit machine trips it and you go dark
You can get at a price emergency tube fittings , but a small rechargeable torch that fits into a charging station will do the job
Stuart
Stuart
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