The Shop > Metal Stuff
Foundry Furnace for the Tiny Shop
vtsteam:
--- Quote from: RobWilson on March 06, 2015, 01:11:36 PM ---
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I have just gone up market Steve , moved on to a Dows port wooden box :)
--- End quote ---
Gee, Rob, does sound like an improvement, how do you get one of those? :) :)
--- Quote ---Yer I am fine , just had a few chest pains and decided to get get back some of the national insurance money I have payed for years , ended up doing a bit "Train spotting " on the NHS and they gave me a canny bottle off easy start too :med:
--- End quote ---
Hey, don't downplay it. Take it easy, man, we really need you! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
--- Quote ---Aye my foundry/crucible tools were a bit ruff back then , that blower was canny though ,cast iron did not stand a chance ,,,,,,,,,,,,aaaarh happy days :)
--- End quote ---
Those days are still here. Rob I watch you grab a handful of cast off junk, see the potential, and turn it into some graceful celebration of skill and utility. That's so amazing! Some say what differentiated human beings from other animals in evolution was the ability to make and use tools. It created a different form of life. But then Jane Goodall discovered a chimpanzee that fished termites out of a mound with a grass stem -- so tool making wasn't totally unique. Which kind of explains my own background.....
:lol:)
vtsteam:
I started turning the grooves in the smallest sheave -- getting chatter even though this is a single point tool, and I took apart and cleaned and adjusted all of the lathe slides, and tightened down on the split spindle bearings. It just won't behave. Basically I need what I'm trying to make -- a more robust spindle and bearings.
Though the speed is the slowest, and the sheave the smallest, I think the chatter is a result of the distance from the faceplate, and it may be less of a problem with the other sheaves which are closer.
I dunno, I was thinking of boring it insted, and then putting the pulley on an arbor and then doing the grooving between centers. But I don't know if that would help or make things worse for this particular piece. :scratch:
I guess I could wait a few weeks for warmer weather and then just turn it on the Craftsman 12". But a Gingery should build itself, without help, seems like.
RobWilson:
Morning Steve
Animals with tools :dremel: , My favourite is the Sea otter using a stone as an anvil :med: .
Could you bring your tail stock up to give the outer end a bit support . Also mounting the tool upside down and running in reverse can do the trick . or make a spring tool :dremel: :)
Just the job for what your doing , Excellent for screw cutting , and you get to make use of snapped centre drills/milling cutters :med:
Rob
vtsteam:
Rob, that's a very nice holder!
re. bringing up tailstock center -- the bore is still just the raw cored hole not centered, I could bore it out now, but the hole would be bigger than my tailstock center (MT1).
Maybe I should make a pipe center. Or maybe plug the hole with hardwood -- that might work and I wouldn't need to bore yet.
re. boring -- I should have put spacers behind the pulley -- the spindle is solid, so boring will mean removing the pulley, and re-centering it to get the spacers in. Otherwise everything could have been turned at one go.
I could try to make a spring tool like yours (I'd like to), but there are some complications -- I'm at the limit of my cross carriage back travel on the larger sheave. Maybe I can do it though if I substitute my boring table and make a tool holder to fit on that, since it is much longer and has more travel.
Running in reverse with upside down tool -- I don't think I have reversing capability with this washing machine motor -- haven't tried figuring out if the wiring would allow it -- I'm still confused on that subject for mystery motors. One thing that would work well though: no worries about chuck or faceplte unscrewing in reverse -- all fixtures/backplates are cast on their arbors. I change arbors to change fixtures.
But I might be able to make a rear toolpost for the boring table. So maybe I wouldn't need reverse to do that, and gain parting ability, too?
vtsteam:
I ended up plugging the hole in the pulley with a tapered hardwood plug, cutting it off and drilling with a center drill, and then bringing up the tailstock center as you suggested, Rob. That worked well enough for the first couple of sheaves. It got progressively better as I moved toward the headstock, and for the third sheave on, so I stopped using the tailstock -- it was getting in the way of measuring the groove spacing.
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