Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
Adhesive for mild steel
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Eugene:
More of a "What do I use" than a "How do I".

I want to glue some mild steel plates together prior to drilling. I've used a Loctite thread locking material which seems to have very low resistance to movement; a sharp rap and it parts. Some time ago I disassembled a stainless enclosure that was stuck together like the proverbial. That was good stuff whatever it was.

Any suggestions?

If all else fails I might just solder them; bit of a PITA though.

Eug
Will_D:
Do you wish to separate them after drilling?

If so can you allow them to be heated?

In which case try a 5 min expoxy (on scrap first)

Or use the old fashioned way:

Mark out the first piece. Drill 2 holes in scrap areas. Spot through onto second (or more) piece. Bolt together. Now drill all the rest of the holes, Cut to size etc. Unbolt and qed!
NormanV:
If you have a lot of work to do on the plates it might be better to rivet them together with countersunk rivets. They won't get in the way like nuts and bolts and there is no danger of them working loose. just drill them out when finished.
sparky961:
I recall reading that CA glue can be used for a temporary bond, with moderate heating to release the bond after you're done. I've never tried it myself so read up on the strength and potential health hazards first. (Cyanide poisoning, anyone?)

It does beg the question as to why though. There may be an alternative way to do things that doesn't involve fixing them together.
Lew_Merrick_PE:
Eugene,

Cyano-acrylate (CA) adhesive can work well.  It can also be a disaster.  It depends on how well the CA was made.  (I have become quite the CA snob in recent years and will only use the Zap brand of CA adhesive!)

Dowel pins or roll pins work quite well as a temporary fixture.  (Good dowel pin assembly requires appropriate reamers, roll pins do not!)  If the holes need to be hidden, an appropriate drill & tap and a piece of threaded rod can cover them over quite nicely.

Please remember that the cyano in cyano-acrylate is (basically) cyanide which will be part of the fumes when it is heated to break.  You can freeze it (25°F or -4°C) to make it brittle enough to break -- and wash off the remains with acetone.
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