Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
Tramming from a different prospective (solid column mini mill)
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greenie:

--- Quote from: Stilldrillin on January 14, 2015, 04:23:48 AM ---Come to think about it..........

During 34 years of making a living, on grown up machines. I never trammed a mill.  :scratch:

David D

--- End quote ---

Hmm, dunno what sort of a workshop you were in, but the joints I happened to frequent, required me to spin the head at very odd angles with some jobs, or, if there was a bit of a boo-boo on my behalf -----------------------s-o-o-o-o, do the tram again.
Some jobs even required I tram it before I started, as the tolerance on the drawings were a tad on the tight side.
With a couple of different operators using the same machines, you could never quite trust the way the other fella left the gear.

Most of the mills I had to operate over the years were of the same sloppy design as the Bridgeport, and I soon discovered it was easier to lower the quill and tram that, by raising and lowering the table, do the X axis first, then go for the Y axis, much quicker and believe it or not, a lot easier that trying to spin the quill and tram the table in the normal fashion.

You could get the head absolutely spot on to the table, each time you trammed the quill.


regards  greenie 
Stilldrillin:
Never worked a Bridgeport.

The Old Archdale, and much newer (back then), Heckert. Both had a taper pin, to locate the head after any angle work.

In those days, I made capel blocks, links etc. For all the NCB rope/ cage systems. Made much of the rope's metalwork, when sinking the Selby Coalfield.

My favourite 8" Sanvic face mill, never complained it was out of wack......

A Takisawa machining centre took over, when I made rock drilling equipment.

David D
vtsteam:

--- Quote from: Stilldrillin on January 14, 2015, 05:31:28 PM ---Both had a taper pin, to locate the head after any angle work.

--- End quote ---

Somebody must have thought, what's good for the collet is good for the head.
rdsii64:

--- Quote from: Stuart on January 14, 2015, 06:10:09 AM ---To the OP

what are your requirements for truth in the workpiece ?

if you require 0.001 mm then I am afraid you have bought the wrong machine you need one of these but a big wallet to buy and equip
http://www.lathes.co.uk/sixis/

these are as been said a cheaper flexible mill but do try it, as is it may well be within your tolerance needs  if its for hobby use remember we are not making parts for NASA



sorry for the rant but I am afraid you cannot make a silk purse from a sows ear

yes I do have a SX3 mill and it performs to my required level but I have done some work on the spindle but the rest is as supplied mine is a tilt head so it needs the head tramming as I move it for some jobs but the the column is within 0.01 over 200 mm both ways.

please do not confuse column alignment and quill alignment they are two distinct things and are adjusted in a totally different way , also they are tested for truth differently as well

Stuart

--- End quote ---
I'm not sure since I haven't made anything with it yet. I'm going to guess I won't need anywhere near .001
dbs:
I too have a mini mill with fixed column and while you cannot make a silk purse from a sows ear you can try.  My mill was out of square by about 33 thousands left to right and about 18 thousands front to back.  That made a very noticeable difference in longer parts and leads me to believe the quality control in the mill factory isn't all that great.  A fly cut on a part two or three inches in width wouldn't amount to much but when I tried to clean up the surface of a 10 inch tooling plate it was disappointing.  I say see just how far out the head is and if it's more than your work can stand give tramming a try.  Good luck to you.  Dave
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