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Which rods for a buzz box welder?

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Eugene:
Thanks boys, I'll go with 6011 and 7014AC and see how I get on with each.

Just for those in UK where do you get your supplies? I'm miles from anywhere so a postal / internet source would be nice; otherwise it will probably be a drive to Brum or at least Shrewsbury.

Eug

BenH:
If your in the UK you will find 6013 much easier to get than 6011, unless you are doing a weld that needs the extra strength a 70xx rod is not needed either. Though a 7014 will lay down more weld due to the iron powder in the flux, but again not really needed.

I use Bohler rods as I find they tend to run better than most out there and the price is not too bad, you really do get what you pay for and cheap rods (T&R) are best avoided as they will give you grief!

For 6013 I use Bohler Phoenix Blau, in 2.5 3.2 and 4mm, very nice rods and are made to run well on low OCV sets like buzz boxs. I'd also say Oerlikeron Fincord M are very nice but can be expensive.

If I want a Lohy rod I tend to go 7016 with Bohler UTP comet J50n, but they really need a higher OVC set (like an oxford) or better yet a DC inverter. You shoud be able to weld allmost anything with 2.5mm just takes a lot passes with thicker stuff.

ieezitin:
Hi guys..

60xx sires rods (6010-6011 etc) are spray arc rods, they do exactly that through the welding process, they are designed to penetrate into the joint and violently deposit metal via a spray, they also blast out contaminants and trash and really don't care  how clean the joint or surface is, you can weld rust if you want.

This rod is perfect for any position because of the spray action, in fact it makes this rod unique, its meant to fill gaps,  it should be cleaned up with a grinding wheel to get rid of the in-bedded stubborn slag deposits  and re coated or capped with a Low-Hy-rod (70xx sires), the 60xx sires rod will leave splatter everywhere in the shape of little balls and they go everywhere so shield your area to stop this splatter.

You apply this rod by a whip or drag action when filling a gap, you hold your molten pool then whip about a quarter inch then come back to the pool area that is now solid and just repete. if your hole wants to solidify and fall or explode just whip the rod away and let the area cool. A nice trick to this rod is think of the length of the rod as a garden hose, where ever you point the end of the hose water will spurt out in the same direction you point it, spry arc do exactly this.

when no gap is there you can just lay the rod at a 30Deg angle from horizontal and let it deposit the metal, your crown will be high but with a perfect speed and heat the bead can look like a row of penies laying on top of each other, for a 1/8 rod 70-75 amps is perfect. This rod can be stored in a barrel of water and used wet the rods will work perfectly, the flux is tougher than dog snot, its nick name is Junk-Yard rods but really its an unfair its the first course or (root) for every major carbon steel pipeline in the world.

70xx sires or Low-Hy rods are for filling (area) and capping (last deposit) 7018 is the most common but all are similar in welding techniques,  it too is an all position rod but applying it is slightly different to the 60xx sires, this type is called Globular Arc, what happens is the end of the rod instantaneously balls up into a molten ball and needs to be deposited, it all happens so fast it appears to be always liquid, here you lead the rod, by that consider it like a pen full of ink, your rod is the pen and the ink is the molten metal you want to apply to the joint, once the arc has been struck you lay your metal on the joint and just lead the rod and let the metal flow from the end where you want it.

Watch the pool of molten metal it will spread out because its liquid, if your too slow is will just splay out and look ugly, if your too fast it will look like moose tracks, play with this rod on a horizontal surface first to get the hang of it, if your filling a joint that is angled you really should stack it, apply a run on the bottom first then apply another bead on top of that, it can be done by weaving but to a beginner it will tear you a new one.

This rod needs to be dry and warm if possible, water or moisture in the flux will sole destroy you so keep them clean and dry.its ten times easier to weld with a 3/32 rod than a 1/8 for a beginner, believe me i have seen 20 year vets in welding work twice as hard not to use 1/8 rods, its all because of the amount of metal being applied in time and heat.

all in all these are all you need to know about these rods, for everyday use they will all you will ever need for carbon steel.

One last piece of advice, apply your efforts to learning TIG welding, its not hard and with todays technology and prices its the only way to weld.

Hope this helps.

Anthony.   

12345678910:
If you're talking videos

http://www.amazon.com/Wall-Mountain-Arc-Welding-DVD/dp/B0006ZFRUM
There is an arc weld part one and two.

You can buy them, download them, or inter library loan.



I can't stand Chuckie's voice, it just grates me.

In terms of youtuve videos, Jody at Welding tips and tricks is good quality content and delivery
 t=28

hermetic:
Hi all, FWIW, I had a series 2 landrover with a dodgy cast iron exhaust manifold, this is the type where there are lugs on the manifolds and it is held in place by clamps that hold both inlet and exhaust manifolds on to the engine.Two of the lugs were boken off, and I had no other welding equipment at this time, other than an ancient (even then!) BOC mig welder I veed the breaks as best I could, and welded it up using standard mild steel wire, no preheat, no postheat, and it was still ok when I sold it 4 years later, Think on though, this is fairly thin cast iron, and it did get very hot, but it worked! Problem with most cast manifolds is the fact that they go through millions of heat/cool cycles, and they are usually made from the scrapings from the bottom of the foundry

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