Gallery, Projects and General > How to's
Metal repairs using epoxy metal and other resin based products
Manxmodder:
Hi all, I have been experimenting with various resins,adhesives and metal filler powders recently.
The Alba shaper I'm currently rebuilding had some unsightly blow holes and porous areas on the main body.
These were mostly in highly visible areas of the casting so I resolved to do something to permanently repair the areas without using any high heat processes like brazing/welding.
Many of you will already be familiar with the process of using baking soda and cyanoacrylate super glue to form a rapid setting and very hard opaque filler compound.
I thought I would take this a few steps further by first mixing brass powder with baking soda and then wetting it out with low viscosity super glue.
The results were very impressive so I tried the same with iron powder and got an equally satisfactory result.
Ultimately I have found when using finely powdered iron or brass they work equally well without the addition of any baking soda.
The iron compound is tough,files to shape really well and has a self lubricating feel to the finished surface.
In the past I have also mixed my own epoxy based brass and iron based liquid metals,and these also turn out as a very robust metal repair paste.
Doing a little further research into commercially available products I found a system called Q- Bond which seems very similar to what I have been making and incorporates an industrial super glue with a metal powder.
I do also use the ubiquitous J.B Weld and just reordered some from Amazon,but the stuff I have been making has a far closer appearance to cast iron than the J.B Weld.
I'd be interested to know of any of your experiences with metal repair pastes,putties or resins whether homemade or purchased.....Plenty more conversation to be had on this subject as it is a really useful technique to master.......OZ.
Baking soda & superglue guitar repair link:
RotarySMP:
:worthless:
vtsteam:
Thanks OZ hadn't thought of that using CA and metal filings. Seems like it would be good for filling small defects quickly, and may be interesting as a bearing material too.
I have used JBWeld for larger spots on CI, if painted over. I think an epoxy base would be stronger and more shock resistant than CA for a structural repair, but that isn't always important. And where unpainted cosmetics are primary in small defects, it it's great to have in the arsenal! :thumbup: :beer:
krv3000:
hi well i did a post sum time back on sum stick type epoxy that had the same shaing as cast you cut a lump off and mix the two together then shuve it in to the hole its only £1 from the £1 shop and its good for that sort of thing but not mutch good for anything else
Pete W.:
Hi there, Bob,
--- Quote from: krv3000 on January 04, 2015, 10:39:16 AM ---hi well i did a post sum time back on sum stick type epoxy that had the same shaing as cast you cut a lump off and mix the two together then shuve it in to the hole its only £1 from the £1 shop and its good for that sort of thing but not mutch good for anything else
--- End quote ---
Some years ago, I had to fit a large pipe to a fibreglass header tank. The pipe had to be horizontal but the sides of the tank had a draught angle. Initially, I toyed with the idea of machining a pair of skew washers but wasn't happy with that approach.
In the end I formed two sausages of that stick epoxy, formed them into rings and sandwiched one each side of the tank wall round the tank connector and squeezed them up between large washers, the tank connector flange & nut . The resin deformed to adopt the right skewness and then cured. Job done!
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