The Shop > Wood & Stuff
Drum/ Thickness Sander
vtsteam:
Simon, what about a simple temporary makeshift wood lathe for the pulley vee -- like you used for the sander drum.
I've actually done that with a piece of 1/2" pipe for an arbor, screwed into a 1/2" pipe floor flange as a faceplate. Attach your pulley blank to the floor flange with wood screws and turn the pulley true with an improvised tee rest and add vee groove using a chisel, or home made form tool.
You can run that arbor in wooden bearings for the temporary lathe setup. And lag it right to the benchtop for a temporary rig. Actually, oiled hardwood bearings work very well even long term if the speeds are reasonably low -- as wood lathe speeds are for this size work.
I mention this because, well, that router table rig does look scary the way you're using it, and also, not everybody has that tooling either.
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: vtsteam on February 18, 2015, 10:01:12 PM ---Simon, what about a simple temporary makeshift wood lathe for the pulley vee -- like you used for the sander drum.
I've actually done that with a piece of 1/2" pipe for an arbor, screwed into a 1/2" pipe floor flange as a faceplate. Attach your pulley blank to the floor flange with wood screws and turn the pulley true with an improvised tee rest and add vee groove using a chisel, or home made form tool.
You can run that arbor in wooden bearings for the temporary lathe setup. And lag it right to the benchtop for a temporary rig. Actually, oiled hardwood bearings work very well even long term if the speeds are reasonably low -- as wood lathe speeds are for this size work.
I mention this because, well, that router table rig does look scary the way you're using it, and also, not everybody has that tooling either.
--- End quote ---
I think my hands were fairly clear of the router bit, it was a tight fit around the spindle and didn't risk spinning freely, I wasn't climb milling, and I was taking small cuts with each pass. The biggest risk seemed to be the clamps holding the board to the table vibrating loose and allowing the thing to dig in. With the flat cuts I doubled up the clamps to reduce the risk, and with the groove the router bit had a bearing that would hopefully prevent total disaster if the clamps came loose.
There's alot of ways I could've cut the part. One idea was to cut a temporary pulley on the motor, drilling the 3/4" hole out to 20mm, and using the setup to cut the drum itself as a lathe (driven by the temporary pulley) to cut a nicer one. Although the only 20mm drill bit I had was a spade bit. A plug of wood could've filled the hole but it couldnt be cut with a hole saw/ hole cutter due to the hole in the middle. So careful work on a bandsaw cutting a tall but narrow 3/4" inch plug, which seems like a fairly dangerous thing to do.
But then another safety concern is using chisels to cut deep grooves. With chisels you don't get the leverage you would with real turning tools, and making fairly deep grooves seems like a bad idea with a chisel and I wouldn't want to do it more than once.
I still think, outside of using the metal lathe in any way, the router table was the most convenient and the safest way to cut the part I had available.
RobWilson:
Nice going Simon :thumbup: interesting design and very resourceful in its execution :med:
Rob
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: RobWilson on February 20, 2015, 04:01:27 PM ---Nice going Simon :thumbup: interesting design and very resourceful in its execution :med:
Rob
--- End quote ---
Thanks!
I did a bit more today and made the motor mount. The motor is extremely heavy and took some wrestling to get it into place. It's held on sideways so the capacitor doesn't foul the table above it.
Doubt that hinge would hold with it hanging from a V belt, so i'm probably going to put a block of wood under the motor mount once I figure out how big it'll need to be.
S. Heslop:
My ever enlarging gut is in the majority of shots I take. It's like it's the star of the show.
More unflattering poses as I grind some sheet metal. I find it funny that i'm wearing alot of PPE and it looks over cautious. But problems in the past have proven that each item is necessary. Still didn't bother putting an apron on, even though i've set myself alight before.
These plates are to prevent wear on the wood when clamping the table.
With the table now lockable, I could attach the bearing flanges to the sides. I was checking to make sure everything was square as I was going, and everything seems to be aligned (or close enough!).
Unfortunately I can't hook the motor up at the moment since i'm waiting on some money to buy a belt. I think I'll start working on the dust hood next. But it's really nearing completion now.
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