The Shop > Wood & Stuff
Drum/ Thickness Sander
micktoon:
Hi Simon , looks like you are making good progress in the right direction, just a case of ironing out the problem areas now hopefully. I bet you were glad that kick back did not hit you in the nuts mind :bugeye:
Cheers Mick.
vtsteam:
I had a wooden boat shop back in the 70's in a former mill with a bunch of other craftspeople. In a neigboring woodshop one of the employees, a woman, was ripping a board and holding with her hands while pushing it with her belly. A one inch by 6 foot strip of the rip waste broke off at a knot and the blade sent the piece right through her. They got her to the hospital in time and she survived,.
Kickback is real, and body position is extremely important to consider with woodworking machines.
greenie:
Good to see that you will be posting that piece of film showing the timber being kicked back out of the sander and sanding both sides of that bit of timber.
Apologies from those that said it wont happen, might be excepted. :doh:
80 grit is very severe on any surface finish, 120 grit will give it a far better finish, or if your after a good smooth finish, then 180 will be the grit you need.
So, are you going to fit any more rollers to the machine to add downward pressure to the timber on the movable belt to stop the kickback happening ?
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: greenie on March 14, 2015, 03:22:25 AM ---Good to see that you will be posting that piece of film showing the timber being kicked back out of the sander and sanding both sides of that bit of timber.
Apologies from those that said it wont happen, might be excepted. :doh:
80 grit is very severe on any surface finish, 120 grit will give it a far better finish, or if your after a good smooth finish, then 180 will be the grit you need.
So, are you going to fit any more rollers to the machine to add downward pressure to the timber on the movable belt to stop the kickback happening ?
--- End quote ---
That isn't what happened. The piece was just able to tip over, raising the back end into the drum, encouraging it to tip over further until the whole thing escaped with alot of momentum. At the time of it jamming the feed belt momentarily stopped moving, because there was alot of downwards force with the piece. I'm lucky it didn't tear the feed belt when it shot out. I'm also not sure if you're aware but the feed belt moves very slowly.
Anyways that small part would've probably done that feed belt or not. If i was standing behind the machine pushing it through like you suggested with some sticks then I would've been right in line to lose a few teeth.
As for the grit, yeah it's a given that a lighter grit would leave a smoother finish, but I went with the 80 since I want this machine to level wood fairly quickly more than produce a good surface. A regular bit of hand sanding and scraping would smooth out the surface quite easily.
And for the rollers, I did draw up a quick system for attaching some if necessary when thicknessing veneers (which may warp a fair bit after cutting), but for most stuff it's probably preferable if it isn't trying to be forced flat to the table.
S. Heslop:
I hate editing audio. Had just under an hour of raw commentary to cut into clips. It's bad enough talking for an hour, but having to then listen to it all in detail is beyond tedious.
The funny thing is that despite all the effort, I still get alot of comments on my videos of people saying they can't understand me. Since I'm mostly reading from a script it wouldn't be too hard to add subtitles to the video, i'm just reluctant to do it since something doesn't feel right about subtitling yourself.
At least people assume i've got a Thick Accent, and don't realise that I really just talk like an idiot.
In other news, I had a go at sanding those hexagons I made a good few months ago. I'm going to pretend I left them that long to let the wood stabilize.
They came out nice and flat, which was good to see. Hopefully I won't get sidetracked again and manage to make a banjo after about 2 years since I started the project.
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