The Shop > Wood & Stuff
Drum/ Thickness Sander
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: awemawson on January 15, 2015, 11:15:32 AM ---Make up a 50 / 50 pva glue / water solution and saturate it. Leave over night to dry then try turning it again, or possibly block sanding it
--- End quote ---
I did try sanding it and it didn't do much to help. I'll try the glue thing, although i'm a little worried the moisture will mess up the MDF. I guess if it doesnt work at all i'll just drive the shaft out and try making it again with plywood instead.
Fergus OMore:
The most obvious thing is 'Sanding Sealer' but if you are windy about PVA, any spirit based varnish left over from other DIY jobs should seal the MDF. Me, a few miles up the road from the Gill, I've used some old 2 part resin for a silly job that has passed its sell by date. Accelerated the gel a bit with a hairdryer.
OK. I'm 'with it' but there are proprietory Sealers for even wet and rotted wood. I did a rotten keelson on a dinghy from Derwent Reservoir with ordinary fibreglass resin and packed it glass in stages as the gel exothermed.
It' s dead easy. Mucky, yea
Cheers
Norman
greenie:
--- Quote from: S. Heslop on January 15, 2015, 11:57:36 AM ---
I did try sanding it and it didn't do much to help. I'll try the glue thing, although i'm a little worried the moisture will mess up the MDF. I guess if it doesnt work at all i'll just drive the shaft out and try making it again with plywood instead.
--- End quote ---
The sanding drum is without doubt, the most important bit of the whole build.
If you can not get the drum to be stable, then you are going to have variations in the thickness of whatever you put through it. Chipboard as you have already found, is nowhere near stable, plywood will be of a similar thing with the way the grain is layered when making the ply.
My opinion is to make it from steel if possible, that way it is very stable and the only variances will be caused by the temperature. Possibly it might be worthwhile, inquiring about having it made from some metal instead of some form of assorted timber products.
Another alternative to chipboard or plywood, is to make it from a solid bit of every dense hard wood, that way it will be reasonably stable.
Your choice on what you use for the drum, but keep in mind what has been stated.
greenie:
--- Quote from: S. Heslop on December 17, 2014, 12:28:51 PM ---I've started working on a drum/ thickness sander to help with making skateboards, of all things, but it'll likely come in handy for some other stuff too.
This might be a bit of a slow project since I have no money (or job!).
--- End quote ---
A bit overly ambitious with a motorised in-feed roller when the readies are a bit on the short side, why not scrap that idea and use a bit of glass that's stuck onto the adjustable table, to allow the product to be pushed through with the least resistance. Much, much cheaper if you use a push stick to shove the product through it, eh.
Good to see you have allowed for a cover over the sanding drum, make sure you attach a vacuum cleaner to it, to suck ALL that dust away.
Fergus OMore:
--- Quote from: greenie on January 15, 2015, 05:45:10 PM ---The sanding drum is without doubt, the most important bit of the whole build.
If you can not get the drum to be stable, then you are going to have variations in the thickness of whatever you put through it. Chipboard as you have already found, is nowhere near stable, plywood will be of a similar thing with the way the grain is layered when making the ply.
My opinion is to make it from steel if possible, that way it is very stable and the only variances will be caused by the temperature. Possibly it might be worthwhile, inquiring about having it made from some metal instead of some form of assorted timber products.
Another alternative to chipboard or plywood, is to make it from a solid bit of every dense hard wood, that way it will be reasonably stable.
Your choice on what you use for the drum, but keep in mind what has been stated.
--- End quote ---
All very interesting but********************
Just over the hill from where Mr Heslop lives is a huge American owned firm which made rollers from rubber- which was actually blown onto a mandrel and used in the spinning industry- after being ground -precisely.
The foreman was and maybe still is a member of TSMEE.
My belt sander was from Picador and was aluminium or Chinese metal( I forget) and my present ones are actually plastic.
But here's the rub( pun intended), a belt sander is NOT and never has been accurate. There is a lot of information which was written about it elsewhere- probably Model Engineer- but it ain't going to produce FLAT surfaces.
Sorry and all that
Norman
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