The Shop > Tools
micro mill electricals problems, help please!!
Bluechip:
Paul
There's not much you can do as a lad in his shed if you don't have the gear. Testing motors is far from simple.
A 240VDC motor should run on 12VDC from a car battery. You might try that. It will be slow and if you put a bit of drag on the spindle with your fingers you can tell if the is/are 'dead segments' on the commutator.
Be careful, it could be quicker than you think. :lol: and be certain that you can disconnect in a hurry in case it's a short circuit .. if in doubt don't :thumbup:
If it runs OK there is a fair chance it's a goer, but my knackered motor would do that anyway. So it's an indication, nothing more.
Other than that the only sure way is substitute the motor. :(
Dave
lordedmond:
Paul
Please do not be offended by this.
When you had the motor apart did you mark the end bells in relation to the body ?
The ones I've seen did not have notches to locate them.
The end bell fixes the brush position with relation to the field and is critical to the correct running and has to be set to a position called the neutral point in a motor that can be reversed
Stuart
John Rudd:
Paul,
Cheapest I could find is here....290589749229
If and when you come to put it all back together, get hold of a 60 watt lamp and holder, wire them so that the bulb is in series with the mains in to the controller......it will act as a current limiter and will prevent ( hopefully ) you from blowing another mosfet in the event the motor is damaged.....assuming you get to the point of testing with another lamp in place of the motor.....
steampunkpete:
--- Quote ---When you had the motor apart did you mark the end bells in relation to the body ?
The ones I've seen did not have notches to locate them.
The end bell fixes the brush position with relation to the field and is critical to the correct running and has to be set to a position called the neutral point in a motor that can be reversed
--- End quote ---
A good thought - well done that man!
pmdevlin:
will order now john, it must have blown again as symptoms are now the same.
Stuart, I paid no attention to that, however might be lucky. With the two studs that go from top to bottom inside the can, you can only assemble in one of two ways, so the end could be 180 degrees out. I would have thought that didn't matter? as the brushes are infact in the same place, or does it as one will be positive and one negative connection?
Looks lie I am having to buy a motor then, and cant believe only arc euro sell them at £88, what an expensive do that is!
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