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PekkaNF:
Looks like I can't have the cake and eat it too!

Originally I bought the big filter to fit it where the small fuel tank is located now. See first picture. I was thinkking to use the clamps and rubber grommets to hold aluminium or steel plate that would allow me to mount the filter unit for a good access.

I was trying to find a gravity feed tank which I could mount traditionally and dispense with prinming pumps and all that. It just looks that to find 10-20 litre tank of proper size and half decent price is hard. It should be just a tad shorter than 20l traditional Jerry can.

I'm that desperate that I'm even looking the old stanless kichen sink as possible base material for the fuel tank. :lol: I prefer one mounted tank over puzzle.

Plan B is to put a shelf on top of the generator and bungee hooks for a boat spare tank, fit a bulb pump between the fuel line and filter. Tank itself needs a minimum of modifivations and almost fits inside of the generator frame. See second picture.

Plan C is to find a smaller filter (possibly with a priming pump) and retain the old tank, rout the line trough new filter and put a aux fuel line disconnect to filter input side. Problem is that the only free place for this large filter comes within 2" of the generator cooling exit.

Third picture illustrates difference of the diesel oil filer, heating oil filter and inline filter size.

Pekka

vtsteam:
I use a hardware store heating oil filter in our kerosene (paraffin) heater line, and that is gravity fed. Seems like you could find an element that filters to the proper micron size for any application. Actually, a look at the one in the tank should tell you if it's a folded paper or felt filter. doubt it's anything special.

PekkaNF:
I took a day off from this problem/chanlenge and started to think that here opposite of good might be prefect.

I'm thinkking of rigging a fuel tank gravity feed and keep everything simple - if it ever is.

I'm thinking of using a normal spare tank and keeping it almost empty when in storage. When put to proper use: bleeding all bad fuel out, fueling it, fitting tank, and it should start with first pull.

I have few options, each has it't own set of compromise.

1) Tank venting:
* breather filter???
* Valve to reduce condensation, fuel aging, and leakage when generator is tranported or moved about.

2) Fuel outlet:
* On top of tank. Won't leak when in store or in use, but needs a fuel tube inside the tank and priming pump.
* Bottom of the fuel tank more simple on every account, might leak if used improperly, although I have no intention.

I'm pretty confident I'll get it working in any case.

Interesting thing is that I was trying to buy today diesel proof fuel tubing and the shop had only Gates rubber hose, one type inside the tank and the other outside the tank.

I walked trough all the selves and on chainsaws they had vinyt tubing:
https://www.oregonpartsstore.com/07-258.html

I have allways avoided using vinyl on any fuel, but apparentyly there is a type that will take least gasoline. But will this particular one (Oregon 07-258) behave well with diesel? Will it work only outside of the tank or can it be immersed?

Pekka

vtsteam:
Odd but "in the old days" it seemed most chainsaws used clear vinyl tubing from the carb forward. And since it was gas/oil mix, I imagine diesel wouldn't be any different. It did get stiff after several years and needed to be replaced if you removed it, but it was easy to do and cost less then 50 cents a foot.

Then fancy saws like my Stihl chainsaw and Honda brush cutter started to use special black colored synthetic rubber in the design. And it was no longer a straight length of tube, but a moulded shape. Cost about 50 times as much, required a special order to replace (if not "legacied") and didn't last more than a couple years because it broke down with the new ethanol/gasoline mixes. Split, leaked fuel on you, or sucked air into the carb, leaning, overheating and scoring the cylinder on my Stihl saw.

I don't know what is used these days on fancy equipment, but my el cheapo Poulan chainsaw still uses clear vinyl fuel line tubing for gas and oil mix, which has shown no signs of deterioration after 3 years of hard use. And that isn't even the "special" Oregon tinted and stamped fuel tubing (which I believe might be silicone based) -- just the plain old cler vinyl stuff from years ago.

So I dunno. Don't know why the change, and why the old stuff still seems to work. We also used to use clear vinyl fuel line tubing on our model airplane engines, running methanol, nitromethane and castor oil blends. Worked fine. I don't really understand what's wrong with clear vinyl now.

PekkaNF:
I know. Good old times you bought any service station or any even remotely related shop clear fuel tube and it did the trick.

On RC engines I think it was silicon tube for methanol and this "clear" PVC tube for gasoline. You were fine as long as you didn't mix. Everybody knew it. Then THEY mixed the fuel.

And there is incredible different amoun of different materials floating around and nobody knows what they are selling or using. Try google Tygon, that is often recommended. Which one?

I have a tight spot and I'm wondereing if I could use this tube, because it has thinner wall and I just might be able to squese it in there.

Pekka

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