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| vtsteam:
Pekka, I'm not sure of your climate, but am guessing it's at least as cold as it is here in southern Vermont. In the Northeast US, diesel is blended for the season. It isn't the same summer vs, winter. In winter, the fuel has a higher proportion of kerosene (parrafin - Br.) so that it won't gel in the fuel lines and tank. Of course we get temps fairly regularly in the coldest part of the winter of -10F (-23C) and occasionally -20F. While using heating oil might be okay for a more moderate climate, like Britain, it could pose problems in a harsher winter location. And, for the cold season, it's best to buy new diesel fuel here at the beginning of winter to get the winter blend, rather than in late summer, when it's still summer blend. Sounds like you've bought real diesel fuel, so all should be well! :thumbup: |
| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: awemawson on December 12, 2014, 08:32:32 AM ---At a simplistic level could you not just wire a socket from the generator close to the boiler oil pump and circulating pump (they probably have a common feed anyway) and have them on a plug so you can unplug when the power goes off and plug them manually into the generator socket, reversing the operation when the lights come back on ? On my oil fired boiler (well actually I have three in separate buildings :bugeye: ) they have a mains feed that goes to the boiler-controller/timer and everything else the boiler needs like the circulating pump and oil pump come off this same feed. --- End quote --- Here it's a little more complicated :lol: 1) Oil burner needs a separate circuit: fuse/CB - cable - red main switch next to door - oil burner. No plugs/socets alowed anywhere. 2) Circulation pump is no sweat - plug is fine.... Transfer switch has to postitively-absolutely isolate here N and L both. Positive forced contact make/break and all that works. I have to figure out if this can be done to one phase, two CB/two circuit. Or do I need to have the whole BIG four/five pole change over switch and use only N/L. --- Quote from: vtsteam on December 12, 2014, 09:56:04 AM ---Pekka, I'm not sure of your climate, but am guessing it's at least as cold as it is here in southern Vermont. In the Northeast US, diesel is blended for the season. It isn't the same summer vs, winter. In winter, the fuel has a higher proportion of kerosene (parrafin - Br.) so that it won't gel in the fuel lines and tank. Of course we get temps fairly regularly in the coldest part of the winter of -10F (-23C) and occasionally -20F. While using heating oil might be okay for a more moderate climate, like Britain, it could pose problems in a harsher winter location. And, for the cold season, it's best to buy new diesel fuel here at the beginning of winter to get the winter blend, rather than in late summer, when it's still summer blend. Sounds like you've bought real diesel fuel, so all should be well! :thumbup: --- End quote --- We have here winter/arctic/santa quality diesel. Small oil heaters are not that uncommon....air pre heater is one that I have more trouble with. I don't think I need these most time, hope I keep the alligator in warm storage and that should keep it ready to start. Prob. a preheater over muffler could keep the bugger running if it gets -35C cold outside. Pekka |
| PekkaNF:
Bugger..... 1) Got be a dedicated driver an host on one dinner, that took care of yesterday. 2) Got 10-15 cm snow, threes looks droopy, but it probably gets warmer and there is no wind now. Snow gives a little stuff to do and then wife need us to go shopping. Apparently everyone else had the same idea.....took a little longer. So I haven't run the new generator yet. Has to remove the tank and mysteryfuel that is inside of it. The tank has paper filter inside and the whole system is gravity fed. Tank is small and I'm considering a bigger tank after a little while. Question: Is there a good fuel filtration system on gravity fed system? Or, am I better off with transfer pump and automotive or such filter pack? Thanks, Pekka |
| PekkaNF:
I cleaned up the fuel tank, double checked everything, filled the tank with fuel and tried to bleed the system. No luck. Took it back to shop and picked it up later. The injection pump plunger had stuck....not sure how did they free it, but now it starts first time. I have to see it runs least 20 h or so before doing anything to it, but the plan is to remove original tank and replace it with a bigger tank. I have two reasons: I want fuel filter out of the tank and really more than three hours of run time would be nice. There is two avenues I need to check: 1) Gravity fed fuel tank location is limitation when it comes to fuel filter. If I put oversize car or marine filter pack (two units, one to separate water) do I get away with modest head? Or do I really need a electric transfer pump? 2) If I need an electric transfer pump, then oil level and engine temperature switch connected to stop-solenoid would be prudent as well. Right now the motor has no electric parts. Not even a single wire. Neat. Pekka |
| awemawson:
I'm still waiting on a 1/4" BSP banjo bolt and 8 mm banjo to couple the fuel to my new generator, but I did re-wire the starting circuits and a fuel lift pump the other day. Amazingly it started first turn just on the fuel left in the filter canister :lol: |
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