Gallery, Projects and General > How to's
parting of made simple
bp:
I've been parting off backwards on my minilathe for years. The blades I use are HSS 1mm thick and 1.6mm thick from A.R Warner in the USA. The toolholder was deliberately kept as small as possible to reduce overhang. Works a treat. Obviously you need to be careful with old fashioned (ducks behind cover) lathes with screw on chucks.
cheers
Bill
Arbalist:
--- Quote from: Jonny on November 04, 2014, 02:47:01 PM ---Might just as well have the real deal from likes of Seco, Manchester, Iscar, Arno, Kennametal etc and not have to bother sharpening every cut off with hss.
--- End quote ---
No not really, most of them don't make holders for mini lathes like mine.
Sharpening one edge on a HSS parting blades is hardly a bother is it?!
I do have and use insert tooling for some turning and parting but prefer to keep my options open by using HSS tooling as well.
Unless I'm turning hard stuff I find HSS is much cheaper as well.
After having an insert parting tool block not fit my Lathe very well I wouldn't buy another one, I'd just buy the blades and make my own block like I did for the last one.
Jonny:
--- Quote from: Arbalist on November 05, 2014, 04:15:35 AM ---
--- Quote from: Jonny on November 04, 2014, 02:47:01 PM ---Might just as well have the real deal from likes of Seco, Manchester, Iscar, Arno, Kennametal etc and not have to bother sharpening every cut off with hss.
--- End quote ---
No not really, most of them don't make holders for mini lathes like mine.
Sharpening one edge on a HSS parting blades is hardly a bother is it?!
After having an insert parting tool block not fit my Lathe very well I wouldn't buy another one, I'd just buy the blades and make my own block like I did for the last one.
--- End quote ---
Buy cheap expect problems, just saying the Ozzy link works out around same price as a decent tool complete. Didn't even pay that for the 32mm Iscar and tool block or any of the other 8 parting tools each. Use one and you will wonder why you struggled.
Why constantly remove blade to keep touching it up, not ignoring the fact of different angles and its effects, then setup each time hardly cost effective unless diy. By the time faffed about touching the hss up I could have done the job. HSS blades has more tendency to veer off, have loads worthless free to good home.
I turn with mine, great finish cant do that with HSS without flex.
Arbalist:
Good for you John but there are plenty of hobbyists on here that do things for fun not to earn a living removing metal. I'm one of those and I'm glad when folks post links to tooling more suitable for the hobbyists on here. If I had to earn a living with my Lathe or Milling machine I might a agree with you but then I probably wouldn't waste valuable time posting be on here telling folks that anything other than insert tooling is a waste of time.
stirling lad:
I'd just like to thank Bill Todd for his explanation of how the blade clears the work piece .... I now understand how it's different..even though it's still on centre... thanks for that Bill.. :thumbup:..
in his video the bloke uses one of these insert tools,,, i can't afford that stuff but it still worked a treat with an ordinary hss blade..
DavidA yes your right,, sorry i forgot to mention that the lathe is run in reverse...
...mike..
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