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| mill spindle speedo.. |
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| stirling lad:
Has anyone fitted one of these tachometers to their mill? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Digital-Tachometer-RPM-Speed-Meter-Red-LED-Proximity-Switch-Sensor-NPN-/311016646077?pt= If so could they please explain how its done to me as i've ordered one but don't know what else i'll need to buy to get it working...do i need one of those transformer things often used on other electrical things,,, you know the ones'' they look like large phone chargers... or is it going to be more complicated than that?? in which case i should abort this idea now,, :zap: as leccy and me don't go well together... |
| awemawson:
I think you'll find Norman V has fitted one to his home made mill described in the thread cited below. I have the kit here in a jiffy bag on my desk waiting for an opportunity to fit it. http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9592.0.html |
| John Rudd:
Dont wanna rain any anyones parade, but I found the refresh rate of these Chinese displays to be a bit on the slow side....Mebbe I was expecting too much :scratch: |
| awemawson:
Just dug mine out of the bag and connected it. Very simple. The display has a 3 wire lead, clearly labelled on the board by the connector as 12v (Red) 0v (Black) and sensor input (Yellow). There is a proximity sensor again with three leads Blue (0v) Brown (12v) and Black (sensor output) Connect the board and the sensor together: Black to Blue (0v) Red to Brown (12v) Yellow to Black (Sensor output) Then connect the 0v and 12v to a 12v DC source (1/2 amp should easily do it) and off you go. As John says the refresh rate is rather slow but if the mill is running at a constant speed that doesn't matter. The proximity sensor can detect a largish hole or a stud sticking out so long as they are steel or iron. |
| John Rudd:
Yup as Andrew says, they are easy to install, although mine uses an opto coupler of the slotted type for triggering... Works well in my mini lathe...I have another 3 to fit to my other mills/ lathe.....Another roundtoit job :coffee: |
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