Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
A couple of small roundtoits today.
Darren:
Wonder why they didn't do that in the first place, nice mod :thumbup:
Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: websterz on April 09, 2009, 08:14:44 PM ---... and peening the castleated clutch (I forgot to mention that) I got my backlash down from almost .070 to a much more acceptable .025.
...
--- End quote ---
Could you explain how you peened the clutch?
Thanks
Eric
websterz:
--- Quote from: Brass_Machine on April 10, 2009, 04:24:47 PM ---
--- Quote from: websterz on April 09, 2009, 08:14:44 PM ---... and peening the castleated clutch (I forgot to mention that) I got my backlash down from almost .070 to a much more acceptable .025.
...
--- End quote ---
Could you explain how you peened the clutch?
Thanks
Eric
--- End quote ---
Simple really. Pull the handle assembly off the mill and turn it, castle-side up, on a hard surface like the anvil on a bench vise. Take a small ball-pein hammer and a center punch and put a small punch mark in the center of each little square face on the handle portion of the clutch. This swells the face just enough to tighten the fit, a little goes a LONG way. If you get it too tight just tap it gently in place on the mill with a mallet and remove the same way. Rotate to different positions tapping the handle on and off to make sure it is not too tight and you are done. There is a set screw in the center hub of the handle (on mine anyway...YMMV) that presses a spring loaded ball against the shaft, make sure not to lose the ball or spring when you remove the handle assembly.
websterz:
--- Quote from: Bernd on April 10, 2009, 09:08:53 AM ---Websterz,
I have the Grizzly version of that mill. I could never understand why they had the u-joint either. Kind of makes sense now that you mention it.
Nice little projects by the way.
Do you know if your lead screws are 16TPI or 20TPI? There's a mod to change them to 20 TPI from Micro Mark. Check out my website on the write up I did of the my mini-mill.
Regards,
Bernd
--- End quote ---
Mine are 16 tpi. I was going to convert to 20 tpi but I plan to add homebrew DRO's so the .0625 thing is not going to be an issue much longer. Aside from a finer feed I personally don't feel the need to change the leadscrews.
In addition to the longer Z rack I also have replacement nuts for the X and Y axis coming. I am going to do the anti-backlash mod to my old ones and keep the new for spares. For those that don't know that mod you take the brass nut and slit 90% of the way thru, starting from the square edge. This leaves a small portion on the radiused end that holds, what is now basically two thinner brass nuts together. Drill a hole thru one side and tap for a setscrew. The pic calls for 10-24 but I prefer 10-32, especially in brass . You tighten the screw to spread the nut apart, tuning out backlash. It also stops the annoying harmonic whine that seems to plague the X axis.
My electrician was a no-show so I started on another long-overdue project...X axis power feed. I managed to recycle part of the Z axis fine feed mechanism, using the worm-gear end of the old U-join as a coupling to join my cordless drill motor to a spring loaded clutch for disengaging the power feed. The little bit of Chinese steel was already the right OD for the bronze bushing I had in the mounting plate so the part was good for something after all! I tossed the rest in the odd bits box for a rainy day. I will post up pics of the power feed project tomorrow. :dremel:
Stilldrillin:
Nice nut mod! :clap:
Thanks..... :thumbup:
David D
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version