Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

How to mount a change wheel to work on it's bore size?

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Eugene:
Lew posted
--- Quote ---How will you make a tool follow your center and not the existing one?
--- End quote ---
If we are referring to the locator pin holes, by calculation the old ones would want bushing to avoid eccentricities and the job isn't worth the bother. I won't attempt to fiddle with them; I'll drill and ream two entirely new ones and blank the old ones off.

Andrew I like the term "victim". Anything mechanical that falls into my hands is a victim by definition. :(

Eug

Pete.:
How close are the bores? Might be easiest to stick a reamer through them.

Eugene:
Pete,

The tightest is about .020" undersize on dia. I don't have any reamers as yet, nor have I ever used one.  All in all I think I'll go with my original idea of turning up a mandrel between centres and clamping the wheel(s) to an angle plate. I've got enough skills (!) to do that and I needn't make or buy any extra tooling. The locating pins sit in a tapered hole, but it's a standard size so that's not a problem, just a learning opportunity.

Thanks Lads,

Eug

mattinker:
To centre the gears in a four jaw, use a dead centre, between a live centre in the tailstock and the gear. The 60° "point" of the dead centre in the hole to be centred, your dial gauge can then be used to centre the gear from the side on the dead centr . In other words, you replace the mandrill with a dead centre and dial it in from the side. I would suggest  pieces of Al to protect the teeth of the gear.

Regards, Matthew

Eugene:
Matthew, thanks.

I'm laid up with the dreaded lurgi for a few days but as soon as I'm back in the shop I'll give that a go.

Eug

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