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| How Do I Machine Hardened Steel on the Lathe? |
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| patuca:
Hi snub: I've seen temporary TP grinders made from small motors belt driving a ball-bearing shaft, dremel tools (small but if you've got lots of time it will work), laminate cutters and small routers. Basically any high-speed motor shaft you can clamp to the toolpost at center-hieght that has a collet or chuck to fit a small grinding wheel. Even if presented at an angle to the gear face it would make a flat recess allowing it to "spark out" with some finish passes and be truly flat. I've even seen someone use an angle-grinder free-hand on a lathe to shorten a hardened flange. Here's a webpage with that trick about 1/2 way down "Grinding on a Lathe".... not exactly a safe thing to do, but you could easily rig up a clamp. http://www.submarineboat.com/lathe.htm good luck, patuca |
| RotarySMP:
I had that same Made in india set of TCMT carbide tools. The inserts were crap. I replaced them with Sandvik TCT's bought for about $1/insert from ebay, and they work much better. What you haven't said is what sort of lathe you have available. It makes a huge differnece whether you are trying to cut hard steel with a Hardinge/Monarch/Weiler/DSG etc or with a 7x chinese mini lathe. When I only had the 7x lathe, I could only use TCMT 1102 (.2mm nose radius) without chatter. With the Boley 4L I now have I can run the TCMT 1108 (and probably even blunter) without chatter. |
| Jonny:
--- Quote from: snub on September 08, 2014, 01:27:34 PM --- The crank gear is ahead of the cam gear. --- End quote --- I would look at the cause first. Genuine parts? or do you mean timing if so looks to me its 22 teeth with 3 off 120 degree fittings, one should line up and will be marked. Is this the GM made engine either ZE22SE with balance shaft or 2.4 used in the Cobalt and others globally, there is help available. |
| tekfab:
It's not that difficult, i purchased some ceramic inserts of eBay, made a holder for them and machined a Wolhaupter boring head from Int40 to MT4 on my lathe. The information is available on the net and I think you'll find it easier than you might think. |
| Mark Rand:
The inserts you've got are suitable for continuous cutting in annealed steel or non-ferrous alloys (very positive leading edge and little distance from the edge to the chipbreaker. Have a look at mcmaster.com or mscjlindustrial.com for inserts in the same size that are more suited for the job. You don't have a lot of metal to remove, but it still needs a robust insert. |
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