Quorn (Corn) Part 2

[nel2lar]

Got in the shop and was able to machine the base castings. The 1 inch bars are ready and fits nice. I started to machine the bases and looked in the lower drawer of my box to find two adjustable reamers, one too small but the other one has a range of 31/32 to 1 1/8 inches. How sweet when things come together. Here is a few pics.

[Meldonmech]

Hi

                   You will find this a very interesting and rewarding project, and something you will be proud of when finished.

                   It is a very versatile machine, and well worth the effort.

                                                                                                          Good Luck   David

[vtsteam]

 

[mattinker]

Hi Nelson,

Have you thought about using split cotters on the castings instead of splitting the casting it's self? I've seen this proposed as a variant by quite a lot of Quorn builders and although I haven't built a Quorn, I've used split cotters quite a lot and I find them far superior to splitting a casting and using a pinch bolt.

This is shown in 2589 CotterLocks.pdf from "The Model Engineer" Jan 1961, the one in fig 3 is the most aplicable in my opion.





Regards, Matthew

[nel2lar]

Matthew
Thank for the kind words and yes I am going to use cotters instead of slits. My thought is why make a point of grit to get into when you do no need to. The only slit I'm going to cut is the spindle mount. The spindle is enclosed so it will not hurt anything. Also some of the spots I'm going to drill and bore at an angle so a cotter can be used.

David
I looked at one for years before taking the dive and well I in too deep to stop now. I believe it will be a big asset when finished.

Cheers All
Nelson Collar

[nel2lar]

Matthew
I plan to using cotters everywhere. The casting that are to be slit, I plan to bore at an angle to the shaft. The front bar I feel it will be a plus because of the angle bored will tilt it to a nicer clamping point. Several I looked at and apply the same boring at an angle to meet the shaft to hold with brass cotters. I am having a great time with it. I've made the thimble and making the cap for the right outside, the dust covers for all the others on the front bar. When I get everything I'm working on I will set the back bar in lock tight and well keep on forward till done. It may take me a year or two but I'm having fun.
Cheers
Nelson Collar

[Meldonmech]

        Hi Nelson, have you seen my post no.  277  regarding my  Quorn Tool and Cutter Grinder.

                                                Cheers  David

[trevoratxtal]

Hello nel2lar
I am sorry if this is late but one modification to make is have 18 inch bars not 12 inch.
Why! you can then resharpen large Morse taper drills, reamers saw blades.
Regards
Trev
 
PS My Quorn is my favorite tool next to the lathe.

[Fergus OMore]

I actually made one and a bit! If one is not careful splitting the castings on the Quorn can result in the holes closing up.
It also happens on making the old version on the Thomas Versatile Dividing Head if the original Mk1 castings are used.
So my Quorn has cotters rather than clamps. If you ' make a balls up' of the boring and overbore, the nip is not noticed.

Again, I can understand the lengthening to 18" rather than the normal 12". One of my long deceased mates did this when he made a fabricated one. He also built a ratchet lift to the vertical column and changed the pulleys to do three speeds.

Where the real excitement comes is the spindle and unless one is very expert( not me), the easier design of the Stent etc makes for almost as good a spindle.

As mentioned, the Quorn is an excellent thing to learn how to machine.

Cheers

Norman

from the Austrian Alps

[nel2lar]

Trev
I thought of that but the bars on the tool head will do the same. A smaller diameter and as long as you need. I already have the bars so I will continue with then and it it seems something I would want to change it, but right now I'm going to build with the 13 inch bars I have.
Thanks for the reply. It is such a versatile machine, the mind is the only thing holding one back.
Nelson Collar

[nel2lar]

Norman
I will go with cotters on all the spots I can. The spots like the front bed bar has to be slit but I'm going to drop it so it will fit a cotter. On the tool holder I'm going to change the angle of the hole to fit a cotter. I know that the dust and grit will get into everything and if there is not a hole maybe I have it for many years, not that I have that many left. I am looking to work with it  and then I know how good or how bad I did.
Cheers
Nelson Collar

Ps I have some more pics to upload as soon as I get time and pull out the camera. I finished the dust covers made from stainless steel last night. My first try at stainless and I found that a sharp tool cuts it like butter. Cheers

[Fergus OMore]

Hi Nelson

Sorry but I.m trying to use an hotel computer which is is in German keyboard and Linux and keeps breaking down.

In my opinion it is worth getting George Thomas,s Workshop Techniques to read about cotters. GHT and Chaddock were assosciates and complimented and complemented each others work.

As for dust, bah!, probably the best is some hospital convoluted tubing- or none at all on the bars. Mine are simply leather seals.

Digressing- this is why I favour the Stent. I had one of those Worden things and it had so much dust that I put in the dustbin.

As far as I am aware, there is NO real way to exclude dust.

I hope this helps

Norman

complete with lederhosen and cuckoo clock

[Manxmodder]

Moore International sell a range of silicone rubber bellows to protect leadscrews and guide rails from dust and other contaminants. 

Link below,see the video at the bottom of their page......OZ.

http://www.mooreinternational.co.uk/rubber-protection-bellows.html
 

[nel2lar]

Nornam
I going with several layers of felt cut under size on the 1" shaft. I will put a vacuum system on it to. That should keep the dust down to a more manageable range.

Oz
I've look at machines with the bellow system and well it takes away from the machine. Like I said earlier I think the felt and  vacuum will do the trick.

I want to thank all that is helping me out of the spots that are questionable.
Cheers
Nelson Collar

[Fergus OMore]

Nelson

A note to say that I am back in the UK for a few days and have a few more notes that may be of use.

The first is something called  'A Very much Improved Quorn Tool and Cutter Grinder' by a Walter B Mueller which appeared in Home Shop Machinist in  possibly November/December 1999 and on.
Frankly, I have no idea how I have a copy- but I have

Again, my very transient memory recalls a Phillip Amos who wrote a series of Quorn Articles in either Model Engineer or Model Engineers Workshop.
Again, I confess to an almost complete memory loss of more details except to relate the sad demise of the writer.

As you will probably be aware Chaddock often mentioned 'something' and a Mr J Hugel wrote 6 Steps to a Perfect Four Facet Drill. Where and all that- I must admit defeat.
Looking through my files, I have another article from modelenginenews.org. whoever it was mentions Derek Brown who wrote on his machine in MEW16 and 17.
I have that series on my files.

Perhaps someone could help you further.

Somewhat bluntly, I cannot because I ran into copyright problems in the past. However, I hope that you will pursue the hints and so on.

Norman

Apologies! It was Derek Brookes for MEW16-17

Thanks Andrew!

N

[awemawson]

Derek Brown is very fond of four facet sharpening. I well remember him giving us a lecture and demonstration at SMEE some years ago

[nel2lar]

Meldonmech
No, I did not see your article 277. Where would I find it?
Nelson Collar