The Shop > Our Shop

Craynerd new workshop project log

<< < (8/10) > >>

Joules:
I would be hatching a plan to insulate the outside and then maybe shiplap the exterior than loose any further space internally.  Also plan on re-roofing with a taller apex and hefty beam for lifting tackle, you never know what the future may bring.  We had a tiny garage here, and checked up with a local planning guy what size garage we could build in its space.  I now have a decent sized workshop I have filled !!! :palm:

          Joules

raynerd:

--- Quote from: smiffy on September 09, 2014, 03:45:28 AM ---walls would then be dry lined  by fixing 1 inch batterns vertically to the walls 2 foot apart which were covered with 40 mm of high density  insulation and then 12mm shuttering ply .It is important to maintain a air flow between the wall and insulation by drilling regularly spaced holes at the bottom of the wall covering. This is often referred to as tanking a building out and if done correctly is quite cheap and effective. Mike

--- End quote ---

Could you just explain the "regular spaced holes at the bottom of the wall covering" ?

Also would 25mm celotex be acceptable instead of the 40mm - just thinking it`ll take up a little less room - only 15mm - 3cm in total across the width but I only have 8'1" to play with! that's still 24mmx2 batton + 25mmx2 celotex + 12mmx2 for the play - reduced it by 122mm.
Is it worth it - will it help with heating or not really? I think it`ll make it feel warmer!

Can I just say now that I can`t afford to lay a new screed floor. I`m going to go with the digging, check the foundation, get a drain running around the garage to move water away from the footings and then go with a liquid dcm. I`ve just purchased this today.

smiffy:
Hi The hole size i use is about 50 mm ,cut with a hole saw and spaced 2 feet apart, at any builders merchant you can buy a plastic push in vent normally used in soffit boards etc these are ideal to make a professional looking job .When dealing with any damp in confined spaces
ie between concrete walls and insulation it is important that there is a air gap and that there is  air flow through the gap hence the holes top and bottom . Always fit as much insulation as possible to both walls and roof ,there is nothing worse than trying to work in a cold damp workshop and it protects your tools and equipment . I turned a stone built house with no dpc that was impossible to heat and control the  damp in ,into a house that is almost passive in heat input, by the use of  insulated walls with a 25mm vented air gap then 50mm insulation  and a further 25mm air gap and then plaster board with 200mm insulated in the  roof . Mike

Jonny:
You have it made its so easy to line from the rafters, Its the best thing I ever did 21 years ago but admittedly have a lot more height in the eaves where I lay boxes to keep the noise down.
Mines only 3/16" ply cheap as you will get screwed to rafters. Lighting fixings through ply in to the woodwork. Some years ago I did lay insulation in between the rafters, then some years later lay chipboard floorboard on the top of the rafters and screw together, immensely strong to walk over. I have a hatch like a loft door.
This extra insulation I haven't noticed much if any difference but a massive difference lining the roof with thin ply.

Must be 12 years ago I lined the walls with the cheap 8ftx2ft+? interlocking chipboard meant for floors, this was a worthwhile improvement but take notice of where the battons are to screw shelving to.
Can just about see it in background above dro in magnolia though a few years ago http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n563/Jonhareng/Jons%20machining/4DROCompareGlassMagneticinitialmovement004.jpg

Doing what I have is perhaps the cheapest method, no doubt the celotex is better but you seen the price of one slab - about the cost of doing 1/2 the whole wall or ceiling with little advantage or in my case inferior as cant hang shelving up or hang aluminium and steel lengths from ceiling between the lighting.

For me I would black dip the walls (bitumen) and seal up the gaps prior to battoning.
Cheap 3mm ribbed rubber matting will massively help with the floor, but might only last 18 months, go thicker. It expands in summer and bubbles, walked over creating tears as it shrinks. Also a pain with shovel and swarf though broom not too bad n straight lines. Also helps with the dropsies.

Pete.:
There's no way I would put up with a floor like that when I could fix it for £100 in materials and a weekend's hard work.

One of these: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-1000-Gauge-Blue-Damp-Proof-Membrame-4x12-5m/p/152859

One of these: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Sharp-Sand-Jumbo-Bag/p/220081

Ten of these: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Lafarge-Blue-Circle-Cement-25kg/p/224661

And you have a new floor dry, flat and smooth. Plus you've raised the floor level to stop anything that gathers outside the door troubling you. Laying it could not be easier - just cut the poly 6" over-size all around, lay it in and tape it to the walls to stop it moving. Throw a few shovels of sand/cement mix around the edge if you like to keep it down.

Cut a piece of stout timber to fit across the bottom of those concrete panels on the recess and fix a board to it to hang down to where you want your floor height to be. This is your levelling tool. It has to be able to slide left and right but not fall off either end.

Either borrow a mixer or get a nice flat area to work on. Start at the far end and draft in some help coz without a mixer it's going to be a long day. Shovel out 3 sand 1 cement 3 sand one cement all into a rough heap and turn it over till it's a uniform colour. Now add a LITTLE water and turn it over to make it damp so it will just clump in your hand enough to hold shape but not have a shiny surface. Now just shovel it in. Do a couple or three rounds then spread it out with your levelling tool. Ram the corners and edges lightly with a block of wood or club hammer head to pull the DPM down into the corner. Scrape one panel level then hop your scraper over to the next gap. Scrape than too then trowel the bit in between where your scraper won't fit. Work your way across to the door then start again the other end. Do the last bit later when either side has cured a bit. Once it's all dry, trim the poly offabout 10mm high from the floor around the edges until you're sure no damp is coming in through the walls.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page