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Craynerd new workshop project log
vtsteam:
If you're absolutely broke, Get a shovel and dig out the outside of that corner to see is there is a crack in the foundation wall. If there is, tar (bitumen?) the whole area of the corner and the crack. Dig a trench by shovel to daylight along the perimeter of the building just below the pad. Lay in some 4" perforated drain pipe pitched to daylight. Stick some 6 mil or thicker poly sheeting along the pad and foundation wall along the trench and tuck under the drain. Cover the drain with washed gravel or stone.
On the inside at the corner. steam clean the wall and pad adjacent, mix up some neat Portland cement with some masonry polyvinyl emulsion so it sticks better ,a handfull of clean sand per bucket, dilute to liquid porridge consistency and paint the entire area with this mix using a wide stiff brush. Let cure overnight and do it again, Repeat for a total of three coats. Neat cement is waterproof, and was formerly used to line swimming pools and the outside of ferrocement boat hulls. I have a cistern made of cinderblock, lined with the same and it's been holding for twelve years now.
No guarantees, but if you have more time than money this might do it -- assuming it is a leak. If it's moisture penetrating poor concrete, the tar and Portland cement should also block that.
Kjelle:
Chris, this is the best advice you'll get, ever!! This is exactly how I would do it, and it's almost to Swedish building code!! I wish I remember where I saw (didn't save the link), but it was a profile of how it should be done...
As Steve wrote, dig up, check and possibly repair (you could have more than a small crack), paint with bitumen, and do that to the whole sole, get some of the perforated tubing and lay on a gravel bed, and fill with gravel. If you want to make it realy right, dig a trench out from the building, and end the tubs there, in a stone bed...
I wish I could help more... What kind of earth is it around the garage? Gravel (unlikely, drains well), sand, mud, normal earth?
Kjelle
smiffy:
Hi, when converting redundant brick built farm buildings to offices and workshops we regularly encountered problems with damp were it was not possible to screed floor .Our answer was to use sinterproof ,a bitumen based product that is semi liquid .This would be spread on the floor with a stiff broom and also painted up the walls to a height of 1 meter .The walls would then be dry lined by fixing 1 inch batterns
vertically to the walls 2 foot apart which were covered with 40 mm of high density insulation and then 12mm shuttering ply .It is important to maintain a air flow between the wall and insulation by drilling regularly spaced holes at the bottom of the wall covering. This is often referred to as tanking a building out and if done correctly is quite cheap and effective. Mike
SwarfnStuff:
Seems to me that if you were to adopt Smiffy's solution you could opt to include or not include the insulation layer. If your budget runs to it, insulate. You could also run your electrics behind the drywall and give yourself power outlets where desired. Perhaps you may need slightly thicker battens but probably not.
A dry, warm shop. Yea! :coffee:
vtsteam:
Ideally you want to stop the water outside the shell, with backup prevention on the inside. The corner is the only problem reported. Seems like you'd want to look at what is happening on the outside there.
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