| Gallery, Projects and General > How do I?? |
| Anybody made their own garage door(s)? |
| << < (2/3) > >> |
| loply:
Kjelle, most of the locks I've seen premade are like normal door latches with a solenoid, so you have to energise the solenoid for a second or so to open the door, then you can slam the door shut and the angled plunger will retract automatically and then spring back out into the slot. Obviously if there was no power it would not be possible to retract them, but, in this day and age that's incredibly rare and I can't imagine needing to open the door in an emergency. If push came to shove I could take some jump leads and use a car battery, spare 12v charger or suchlike... There is a normal rear door too which I could use if the place caught fire whilst I was in there or something! |
| Eugene:
Rather than infill with plywood which can get shabby pretty quickly unless you opt for a marine grade (megabucks) I'd go with treated ship lap which looks nicely "rustic" when unpainted, but given a couple of coats of Ronseal looks quite smart. It's also a lot lighter than ply. This is mine after 7 Welsh winters ..... sound as a pound. Cladding with ship lap is dead easy and very quick ... takes longer to paint it. Eug |
| loply:
Eugene, thanks for that tip, I'll probably take that onboard. I was going to cut V-grooves in the ply with the router to simulate that kind of appearance anyway! Only difference compared to yours is that I plan to frame around the 'outside' of the door with thicker wood to make it look like a traditional mortice + tenon door, probably decking planks with the smooth side outwards, then I'll fill the middle with ship lap on the back of your comments I think... |
| PekkaNF:
Happy you know the secure hinges. I don't know official name for them. Some have pins, some have tabs. Whatever construction you do, I would ask you to consider having one integral/whole plate/sheet/plywood somewhere in the the door leaf. You really need a whole lot more torsional stiffness than your normal door. I would not use plywood "infills" or such, you really should screw the crap out of it to make hold. Even normal residental wood doors here have fairly thick continuos aluminium sheet on the middle to stop the door drooping. I'm sure you are going to make it good and beatifull. Pekka |
| S.D.L.:
Just a comment I had a roller door fitted and best thing I have done to the Workshop.. It will stop at any position. The slats are hollow Aluminium full of insulating foam. The sides have brushes sealing both sides, result no Draughts. I could go into the shop any time last winter and the only heating I have is two 80W oil filled tubes Steve |
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