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Twin Cylinder Steam Engine
Darren:
Look what I found under the hedge in the garden today :) :) :)
I wonder what I could do with these :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
bogstandard:
Darren,
I have never had any problems at all using stainless rods in any of my engines, either in a rotary or sliding motion.
I would suspect stainless running in stainless might cause a problem.
I think you might be getting confused with stainless steels ability to have a grab factor. That only happens when stainless is tightened onto another metal.
With regards to your sash weights, don't go diving in like you usually do. There is a technique to cutting that type of casting. Using say an angle grinder, grind a groove all the way around the bar. Either drop it onto concrete or tap wiv a big 'ammer, it should break around the grind line. This will allow you to mount it in the lathe and start your cutter off under the hard outside skin, say a 0.025" (0.5mm) deep. This should then cut along the good material under the skin, taking the rock hard outer casing with it. You might find that the last 3 or 4" at the end opposite the loop is full of dross and can usually be discarded. I have never worked with square ones, so you will have to work how to get under the skin on those yourself. I can normally get at least 12" of very good material out of them, about 1.25" diameter.
I know Steve bought a load and they turned out to contain nothing but dross. You win some, you lose some. Up to now, after many dozens, I haven't had a single loss.
John
Darren:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on April 10, 2009, 06:44:20 PM ---
I think you might be getting confused with stainless steels ability to have a grab factor. That only happens when stainless is tightened onto another metal.
--- End quote ---
Thanks John, I have no doubts about getting the wrong end of the stick. I used to have parts made at a machine shop and they would give me all sorts of excuses not to use SS.
I'm beginning to think they just didn't like machining the stuff and I was fed a load of drivel. They always wanted me to have the parts made in brass. It was a fully fledged modern CNC shop too.
Mind you, I'm beginning to understand their reasoning, but I find it hard to believe they would have the same problems as I do..... :scratch:
Darren:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on April 10, 2009, 06:44:20 PM ---
With regards to your sash weights, don't go diving in like you usually do.
--- End quote ---
OK.... :lol:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on April 10, 2009, 06:44:20 PM --- I have never worked with square ones, so you will have to work how to get under the skin on those yourself.
--- End quote ---
I'm thinking, abrasive chop saw or angle grinder, cut the length for an engine block in the manner you describe and then slice the side crust off with the bandsaw??
Maybe that might work :scratch:
bogstandard:
Darren,
That just might work. Just make sure you are cutting in virgin good metal and not the skin except for the two outside edges.
If you are after making it square from square, you could try milling it first, starting off from a previously cut edge, put a deep enough cut on to get it under the skin.
If you have any spare tips you want to get rid of, just try turning the skin off the surface without going deep enough. Just to see what I am on about. There is most probably 100 years of crustiness on there, but also 100 years of lovely matured cast iron underneath.
Bogs
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