MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: mattinker on July 23, 2013, 03:36:07 PM
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I had a surprise when I opened John's thread, I've been working on the same thing! I'm not making a film of it though.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern1a_zps1120b9f3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern1a_zps1120b9f3.jpg.html)
I bought the book, I could have made from the photos, but it's a good reason to buy a good book.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern1_zps789287f0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern1_zps789287f0.jpg.html)
Like John, I've made most of my patterns in MDF, but the dust is really bad, so this is pine that I have lots of from my TV set building work.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern2_zps26dafc07.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern2_zps26dafc07.jpg.html)
I didn't have anything round, but that's what we have lathes for!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern3_zps3a5931da.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern3_zps3a5931da.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern4_zpsd3f9c252.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern4_zpsd3f9c252.jpg.html)
I planed down the two sides of the base to give it draught.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern5_zpscb0947ec.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern5_zpscb0947ec.jpg.html)
glued together, with grubby finger marks in the glue!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern7_zps1cb4b645.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern7_zps1cb4b645.jpg.html)
I didn't have any 8mm dowel, so I drilled a hole in a piece of scrap and drove a piece of pine through with a malet, thus making five times more dowel than I needed!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern6_zps46f3788b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern6_zps46f3788b.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern8_zps09f362af.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern8_zps09f362af.jpg.html)
A piece of broom handle to make the split cotter boss.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern9_zpsea1dafae.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern9_zpsea1dafae.jpg.html)
Cutting the pattern in half with the band saw, I had to use two blocks to keep it vertical. You can't see it, but the draught on the bottom made it really unstable.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern10_zps06194ede.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern10_zps06194ede.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/patern11_zpscfc20877.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/patern11_zpscfc20877.jpg.html)
Body filler fillets and hole filling. Pine requires much more finishing, but I'm not ill as I would have been with MDF!
I won't be casting until the heat wave is over!
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Looking fine
You must be in to wood as you have one of those wooden hammers
Be interesting to see how we do things
John
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John,
I'm a fan of your videos!
I'm looking forward to seeing your way of doing the same thing as me! I have always worked in metal, it's just I'm a tool junky, I earn my living partly in wood, so I have the tools.
By the way, I was a vehicle fitter for ten years!
Regards, Matthew
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Great to have two people working on the same project! I enjoy pattern making so it's good to see you both making them. I also sent for Sparey's book after Rob Wilson recommended it so highly -- but mine is taking quite long to get here. I'll be watching and enjoying your thread! :thumbup: :clap:
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Nice work Matthew - I'm looking forward to seeing this progress. I'm watching John's progress as well but over on the MWF (http://www.metalworkingfun.com/) site.
...You must be in to wood as you have one of those wooden hammers...
So that is the defining feature? :lol:
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I'd say using a dowel plate is a definite indicator. And making the dowel plate puts you on the metal working side as well. Wouldn't be surprised if he made the mallet, too.
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I'd say using a dowel plate is a definite indicator. And making the dowel plate puts you on the metal working side as well. Wouldn't be surprised if he made the mallet, too.
I bought the mallet in the UK along with the Stanley 30mm chisel which is at least 2" shorter from sharpening, I left in '79 when Thatcher arrived!
Regards, Matthew
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:clap: :clap: :clap: Looking great Matthew :thumbup:
Rob
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Things haven't changed much, more painting and filling.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/emco_zpsa0c9547b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/emco_zpsa0c9547b.jpg.html)
The Emco is the smaller of my two lathes (tool gloat, gift from a school, brand new with protective gunk, missing the burnt out motor and pulley!), so the dividing head is sized to fit.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/colchester_zpse5339300.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/colchester_zpse5339300.jpg.html)
Raiser block to make the dividing head more usable on my Colchester.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/P1020389_zpsdc63c0dc.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/P1020389_zpsdc63c0dc.jpg.html)
Cutting out the riser block on my radial arm saw, set to 3°, the draught is made on cut out. It's hard to show draught as camera deformation is often more than enough to cancel it out.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo2_zps52119d4b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo2_zps52119d4b.jpg.html)
The banjo
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Very nice
The pattern as well as the lathe :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
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Matt, what are the dimentions on your lathe? It looks similar in size to my 7x14. Wish I had the t-slotted cross slide on mine.
Chuck
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Chuck,
The Emco Compact 8 is an 8x18. The "T" slots are nice, but only 6mm, I think I'm going to make a few raising blocks, because I'll need to be able to use it on my mill (14mm "T" slots) and my shaper (12mm "T" slots). None of my machines have the same distance between slots!
Regards, Matthew
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hi mat same lathe that i have
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hi mat same lathe that i have
Krv,
I'm very pleased with the Emco, my first screw cutting lathe!
On to the casting, when I started looking at the dividing head project, I spent some time thinking about the casting. Three things came to mind:-
i.From my little experience of casting, I thought that I'd never manage the gap the middle, so I left it out.
ii. The original being made of cast iron, (I presume) so I made mine with fatter flanges to have a stronger base.
iii. My banjo pattern I made without the ribs as I thought that they would make the moulding more difficult. Rob Wilson had told me that the ribs were to make the milling easier on the lathe so that decided me!
It's been nearly ten years since I cast anything, I've been preoccupied with my major home and workshop building project. I had bought "regenerating paste" for my petro-bond sand, it was already in need of reconditioning when I left it, now, it was in a sad state, so, first things first, re-work the sand, by hand, a couple of times, as I didn't want to overdo the "paste" and I just couldn't remember what it felt like when "right". It took four goes at ramming the mould before I got it right, without forgetting the the breathers, having it collapse and the worst, putting it on backwards, as I hadn't put eccentric guides to make it go back only one way!
I've been following John's excellent videos very closely, I owe him my gating (Thanks John!!).
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/mold1_zps5194578f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/mold1_zps5194578f.jpg.html)
It had been so long since I'd done any casting, that I really hadn't much of an idea about how to go about it! I realised that my pattern was smaller than John's and probably less volume, so if his last casting wasn't too bad (I couldn't see it in the video), mine might work out. So between John's videos and the US Navy Casting Manual, I went with a 30mm diameter sprue and a 50mm hot riser with a fairly generous gate.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/mold2_zps0b803b45.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/mold2_zps0b803b45.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/mold3_zps63bdc289.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/mold3_zps63bdc289.jpg.html)
Scatter brain forgot the breathers on one ram up, when I opened it up again, the sand collapsed, I rammed it harder for the next one!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/mold4_zpsf4bac686.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/mold4_zpsf4bac686.jpg.html)
I don't remember where I found this idea, so I can't give credit to it's inventor. It gives a nice smooth sprue funnel easily
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/funnel2_zps964acb3a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/funnel2_zps964acb3a.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/funnel1_zps4cdc0d6e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/funnel1_zps4cdc0d6e.jpg.html)
my foundry.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/foundry1_zps83ca3491.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/foundry1_zps83ca3491.jpg.html)
I broke the lid a long time ago, so it's two firebricks for the time being!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/foundry2_zpseb510759.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/foundry2_zpseb510759.jpg.html)
The result, with which I'm pleased (Thanks again John!)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/casting2_zpsf90e7795.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/casting2_zpsf90e7795.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/casting3_zps89095a66.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/casting3_zps89095a66.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/casting1_zpsb2143fd8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/casting1_zpsb2143fd8.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/casting4_zps81751b5b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/casting4_zps81751b5b.jpg.html)
So while I'm at it, it's time to ram up the banjo and the riser block!
Regards, Matthew
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Very nice
There is much more metal in mine
That is why it was a ba&^%$£d to cast
John
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Seems like you picked up casting easily again! Looking forward to the rest of the build. :thumbup:
That's an interesting sprue cutter!
I've been tapering my sprues lately just by choosing a dowel of the bottom diameter desired and rapping it from all sides at the top to form a taper before removing it. Works well and makes a nice smooth sprue surface with no cleanout needed.
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John,
what's the centre height over the cross slide on your Boxford? The Emco Compact 8 is 60mm I'm curious to know how different the projects are!
VT,
I picked up the casting with quite a lot of glitches, the thing that I hadn't quite remembered was how much of a buzz casting is, such a satisfying thing to do!!
Regards, Matthew
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Looking good Matthew, glad the castings came out well, there will be no stopping you now.
Cheers Mick.
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Thanks Mick,
I'm enjoying myself, just need to keep on finding the time!
Regards, Matthew
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Hi Mathew,
Good result on the casting, should machine up well.
Enjoy the buzz Cheers David
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Hi,
I got two more moulds rammed up, The Banjo casting and two riser blocks.
This is not the actual mould that I cast, I forgot to take the pics, but it's nearly the same
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/mould5_zps304133a4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/mould5_zps304133a4.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/mould6_zps8fec1506.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/mould6_zps8fec1506.jpg.html)
I made the banjo with out the raised ribs in the original, I think that I'm not steady enough to pull of a casting with that kind of detail!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/casting5_zpsca5aa7e0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/casting5_zpsca5aa7e0.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/casting6_zps15a43f03.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/casting6_zps15a43f03.jpg.html)
Well, the casting is done, I don't know when I'll be able to get to start machining, it will be as soon as I can!
Regards, Matthew
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John,
what's the centre height over the cross slide on your Boxford? The Emco Compact 8 is 60mm I'm curious to know how different the projects are!
VT,
I picked up the casting with quite a lot of glitches, the thing that I hadn't quite remembered was how much of a buzz casting is, such a satisfying thing to do!!
Regards, Matthew
Hi
Matthew the distance between the cross slide and the lathe centre is 70 mm
John
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Hi,
it's been a while! Things keep getting in the way. I've been working on the casting, starting with a skim over the top. With two 4mm rounds to compensate for the draught.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast1_zps6668f6cc.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast1_zps6668f6cc.jpg.html)
The boss for the cotter was a little proud, which meant that once milled, I had a small flat to seat it on.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast2_zpsce22020c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast2_zpsce22020c.jpg.html)
The base trued up really well and I got a finish that I was really pleased with after taking off 1.5mm. Leaving the centre height
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast5_zpsaddfb797.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast5_zpsaddfb797.jpg.html)
The "T" slots on the Emco are only 6mm wide, which is going to have to be OK!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast4_zps6138c280.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast4_zps6138c280.jpg.html)
Drilling 5mm holes for the guide pins.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast6_zpsec6b1be6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast6_zpsec6b1be6.jpg.html)
I drilled four locating hole holes, so that I will be able to line up the dividing head at 90°s as well as in line with the spindle.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast7_zpsea26f70e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast7_zpsea26f70e.jpg.html)
Locating pins, slotted with my hacksaw.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast8_zps9b7402e5.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast8_zps9b7402e5.jpg.html)
Tapping M6
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast9_zps630c3fb0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast9_zps630c3fb0.jpg.html)
Pins in line with the spindle.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast10_zpsbd69178a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast10_zpsbd69178a.jpg.html)
90°s
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast11_zpscf0c761e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast11_zpscf0c761e.jpg.html)
Lining up to drill the split cotter hole.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast12_zps72197ec5.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast12_zps72197ec5.jpg.html)
First step drill, 6mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast13_zps1bbae47e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast13_zps1bbae47e.jpg.html)
Drilling out to 15mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast/cast14_zpsc1f49d57.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast/cast14_zpsc1f49d57.jpg.html)
Finishing with a 16mm slot drill, I haven't got a reamer that size. Split cotters are pretty forgiving!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt1_zps1f27ebf4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt1_zps1f27ebf4.jpg.html)
Before I could go any further, I needed to make "T" bolts. I used a piece of hot rolled 10mm square bar, it was slightly oversize, cleaning it up with a file brought it down to size. A light came on, I'd never thought about using my self centring punch on square stock before!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt2_zpsa88934ac.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt2_zpsa88934ac.jpg.html)
Popped!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt4_zps290a6f87.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt4_zps290a6f87.jpg.html)
Centring in the four jaw.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt7_zps7b343978.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt7_zps7b343978.jpg.html)
Centre drilling.
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Oups! I hit the post instead of the preview button!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt5_zpsd83c33bf.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt5_zpsd83c33bf.jpg.html)
Facing off.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt8_zps5bfda4a6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt8_zps5bfda4a6.jpg.html)
Drill to 6mm
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt9_zpsf5e846e2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt9_zpsf5e846e2.jpg.html)
cutting off four pieces with the the bandsaw.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt3_zpsd37c399b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt3_zpsd37c399b.jpg.html)
I turned the heads off for 6mm bolts.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt10_zps8abe3c01.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt10_zps8abe3c01.jpg.html)
The bolts were then brazed into the square heads.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt11_zps6aaf5d28.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt11_zps6aaf5d28.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/tbolts/tbolt12_zps9d963447.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/tbolts/tbolt12_zps9d963447.jpg.html)
Faced up and cleaned up with a file.
I had originally intended using brass for the split cotter, but I kept on having a doubt about brass in Al, I actually made one in brass, but I decided against it after a bit of reading on the web. I am going to bore with the cotter in place. So, apiece of 16mm clod rolled, 55mmlong was chucked up in the three jaw.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotter/cotter1_zpse01a42c3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotter/cotter1_zpse01a42c3.jpg.html)
Trued up and centre drilled.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotter/cotter2_zps7a02b1c1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotter/cotter2_zps7a02b1c1.jpg.html)
Drilled all the way through 5mm, taping size for 6mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotter/cotter3_zpsa39b2094.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotter/cotter3_zpsa39b2094.jpg.html)
Starting the tap by hand.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotter/cotter4_zps24fa3bb1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotter/cotter4_zps24fa3bb1.jpg.html)
Tapping 25mm deep.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotter/cotter5_zps1c756b5e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotter/cotter5_zps1c756b5e.jpg.html)
I then turned the part around in the chuck and drilled 6mm, clearance 6mm bolt to a depth of 30mm. I'll explain all this once the casting is bored.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Bore/bore1_zps7d5e59e5.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Bore/bore1_zps7d5e59e5.jpg.html)
So this is what it looks like so far on the Emco.
More later, regards, Matthew
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Would you elaborate a bit of this split cotter design consideration? I'm familiar. with the design and have this same book and read some further info, but haven't used this method yet. Therefore I'm interested to hear reasoning about the material choices you made.
Pekka
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:clap: :clap: :clap: The dividing head is looking great Matthew , nice job doing the castings :thumbup:
Rob
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Thanks Rob!
Would you elaborate a bit of this split cotter design consideration? I'm familiar. with the design and have this same book and read some further info, but haven't used this method yet. Therefore I'm interested to hear reasoning about the material choices you made.
Pekka
Pekka,
my variation on the cotter is based on an article in the Model Engineer 29th of December 1965, written by Duplex, "Machining spindle locking devices". I don't know if I can provide this information to the group, for copyright reasons, (Moderator, what's group policy?) but I'm sure I can send it to you personally if you want it.
I am going to show more about the split cotter soon, but, I am making a split cotter, the locking device show in the book is a single piece cotter which locks from one side. First of all, I'm boring with the cotter in place, when finished, the cotter is cut in half, providing a sleeve at the top and a threaded part at the bottom. I pre-drilled the cotter 5mm, taping the bottom M6 and drilling the top to 6mm, clearance, M6, when screwed together the two halves pinch the shaft instead of pinching from one side, doubling the clamping surface.
In this particular case, I used cold rolled for the cotter. I have previously use brass in steel, but I was afraid that Brass in Al might give electrolytic problems. Sneak preview, I was also afraid that the steel would deviate the bore when drilling the "mixture" of metals, last drill, 25mm showed no sign of deviation, I don't think the boring bar will give problems.
I'll be back soon with more photos, regards, Matthew
[
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Thank you. It's chrystal clear now. I paged GHT "The Model Engineers Workshop Manual" page 22 description of split cotter. It's rather different.
I think I read somewhere comparison of these two different locking mechanisms, but really can't remember right away.
Pekka
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Hi,
At this point, I'm about to make modifications to suit the Emco Compact eight flange chuck mount and to allow the use of the three different change gear sets that I have.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/flangenu_zps09ceea2d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/flangenu_zps09ceea2d.jpg.html)
Instead of a threaded chuck mount, the Emco has an odd size DIN cone three bolt mount.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/hub/hub1_zps5d24f067.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/hub/hub1_zps5d24f067.jpg.html)
The flange is 80mm in diameter, as I don't have a lump of anything usable of that diameter, I cut a piece of 20mm hot rolled square and then chopped the corners .
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/hub/hub2_zpsa8e49f02.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/hub/hub2_zpsa8e49f02.jpg.html)
Setting up in the four jaw on the Colchester.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/hub/hub3_zps322e62ff.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/hub/hub3_zps322e62ff.jpg.html)
After centre drilling, step drilling.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/hub/hub4_zpsc5f86179.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/hub/hub4_zpsc5f86179.jpg.html)
final hole size, 25mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/hub/hub5_zpse6ed12cb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/hub/hub5_zpse6ed12cb.jpg.html)
45°chamfering for weld
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/spindle1_zps0b52e976.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/spindle1_zps0b52e976.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/spindle2_zps9373c151.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/spindle2_zps9373c151.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/spindle3_zpsa27474cd.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/spindle3_zpsa27474cd.jpg.html)
I had a suitable length of cold rolled 30mm which I clocked in on the four-jaw on the Colchester. (the bore in the Emco won't take 30mm) I centre drilled both ends and one end I step drilled out to 12mm, tapping size for M14. The last 20mm were left at 12mm and the first 30mm were drilled out to 14mm, clearance for M14 thread. This is the beginning of the interchangeable gear mounting, easier to do before welding on the flange.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/spindle4_zps7c720e93.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/spindle4_zps7c720e93.jpg.html)
Reducing the Cold Rolled to 25mm Ø over 20mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/spindle5_zpsae00e2b6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/spindle5_zpsae00e2b6.jpg.html)
45° chamfer for weld.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/weldstress/weldprep_zps4abcdec1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/weldstress/weldprep_zps4abcdec1.jpg.html)
Assembled ready to weld.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/weldstress/weld1_zpsb19a11f3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/weldstress/weld1_zpsb19a11f3.jpg.html)
Welded on one side. I was a touch wide and there was a piece of splatter in the centre bore.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/weldstress/weld2_zps8325f7f2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/weldstress/weld2_zps8325f7f2.jpg.html)
Welded the other side.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/weldstress/destress_zpsaf7dfa30.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/weldstress/destress_zpsaf7dfa30.jpg.html)
De-stressing, the rectangular objects in there are pieces of cold rolled for another project.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Bore/bore1_zps7d5e59e5.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Bore/bore1_zps7d5e59e5.jpg.html)
So, while the shaft cooled, I set up the casting on the cross slide of the Emco, everything lined up nicely using the alignment pins.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Bore/bore2_zps385e0298.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Bore/bore2_zps385e0298.jpg.html)
The cold rolled for the cotter was locked into place with a hold down. Centre drilled.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Bore/bore3_zps9a357c65.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Bore/bore3_zps9a357c65.jpg.html)
The smallest bit I have that was long enough is 8mm, and only long enough held at the very end of the shank.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Bore/Bore4_zpsf48b068f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Bore/Bore4_zpsf48b068f.jpg.html)
Step drilling, this is the first time I used this bit that I bought for next to nothing ten years ago!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Bore/bore5_zpsf33e3384.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Bore/bore5_zpsf33e3384.jpg.html)
22mm
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Bore/bore25mm_zpsd6a641ca.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Bore/bore25mm_zpsd6a641ca.jpg.html)
Finally, 25mm which as you can see only just made it. At 25mm the cotter was beginning to be cut. I hadn't drilled a mixture of steel an Al before and I was afraid of deflection, but there wasn't any that I could find.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/flangecentre_zps56774e65.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/flangecentre_zps56774e65.jpg.html)
I forgot to take pictures of setting up the shaft in the four jaw before turning the flange round and re drilling the centre which had been partly filled with weld!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/flangecleanup_zps99b3e97d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/flangecleanup_zps99b3e97d.jpg.html)
Machining the inside weld I left a 45° fillet that will be covered by a spacer.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle/spindlewelded_zps4bd275a9.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle/spindlewelded_zps4bd275a9.jpg.html)
Cleaning up the other end. I have a consistent 29.94mm over the full length of the shaft. Now I can finish boring the casting.
To be continued, regards, Matthew
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Great sequence mattinker! I really appreciate the photos and seeing how you work. Thank you! :clap:
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Thanks VT,
I was wondering whether I was putting too many photos in! It's hard to judge when there aren't many replies!
OK, a general question, too many photos?
Regards, Matthew
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Nope. Love the pictures and enjoying watching the build.
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The more pictures the better
Clever machining the lock with the bore
Very nice welds as well :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
John
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Thanks Porker and John,
OK you asked for it, I won't hold back on the pictures!
John, more on the bore and the split cotter in the next episode!
Regards, Matthew
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brill work once you have made that one you may as well mack me on as my lathe is the same as the one you have
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Thanks VT,
I was wondering whether I was putting too many photos in! It's hard to judge when there aren't many replies!
OK, a general question, too many photos?
Regards, Matthew
Matthew
Keep putting pictures in the way that you feel describes the project. Your photo size is excellent and easy for all to view. :thumbup:
There are a lot of people watching even though they haven't made a post to tell you. So far it has been seen by 1710 people. In my opinion you are doing an excellent job :D :D
Cheers :beer:
Don
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:nrocks:
brill work once you have made that one you may as well mack me on as my lathe is the same as the one you have
Thanks for the "brill work" krv3000! It's not finished yet! No counting chickens!
Regards, Matthew
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Matthew
Keep putting pictures in the way that you feel describes the project. Your photo size is excellent and easy for all to view. :thumbup:
There are a lot of people watching even though they haven't made a post to tell you. So far it has been seen by 1710 people. In my opinion you are doing an excellent job :D :D
Cheers :beer:
Don
Don,
I looked at the hits when I made a previous post that no one replied to! 200 odd hits in 24hours, so I thought "people are looking" maybe we'll hear something later. I know that I don't always reply to things that interest me so what can I expect!!
I have my camera set up to 640x480 pixels so editing is quick. I sometimes get the feeling I'm over explaining. I suppose when I don't need to make long comments, I'm saying enough.
Regards, Matthew
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Well I am one of those who often follow posts but don't often reply. (I try not to unless I can add something to the discussion.) As to there being too many pics or too many words of explanation. They do say, 'A picture is worth a thousand words.' But I find that often the 50 or so words about the picture sure helps me understand the pic more.
John B
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Nice work Matthew.
In answer to one of your questions: there is no such thing as too many pictures!
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Hello again,
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/boreingbar/dogs_zps694b7a5d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/boreingbar/dogs_zps694b7a5d.jpg.html)
I should call this drawer my kennel, the dogs came with a cabinet that I bought from a machine shop closing down.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/boreingbar/old1_zpsa339f4f4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/boreingbar/old1_zpsa339f4f4.jpg.html)
I made this boring bar a long time ago, before I had either a mill or a shaper, I haven't used it for about ten years, I had my doubts about it when I dug it out! Well it's too short, so turn a cone on one end to weld a bit on.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/boreingbar/extension1_zps087fc0f4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/boreingbar/extension1_zps087fc0f4.jpg.html)
Turning a stub extension. I love working between centres.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/boreingbar/extensionweld_zps8e65a949.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/boreingbar/extensionweld_zps8e65a949.jpg.html)
Ready to weld.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/boreingbar/oldtest_zpsf98202c1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/boreingbar/oldtest_zpsf98202c1.jpg.html)
I would not recommend this construction, it chattered at all speeds, I think I last used it with one end in the chuck, but it was so long ago I just can't remember!
To make things clear, I started machining about twelve years ago, I hadn't done any since I was 14 years old, I made a centre punch and a hollow handled big screw driver on the lathe. So my first machine tool was a home made lathe that looked as though it had been made in the 1950s. I bought a shaper as I thought I could learn to make parts for the not very rigid lathe. I started getting the hang of the Elliot M10 shaper which was nice and tight and produced use full bits. Then nine years ago I bought the building I now live and work in, I bought a slice of an industrial building, 12m x 14m 6.25m to the eves with a nearly flat roof. I built my home on a 70 square metre "upstairs" that built. The building work and life have taken up a lot of my time and I'm only just getting back into machining. I've bought machines since I've been here, A 1944 Colchester Master on eBay UK, a H. Ernault SOMUA mill, a Clarkson MKI tool and cutter grinder (the only tooling were a pair of centres) a Denbigh piller drill (a camel back of 1960s construction) and relatively recently an Emco 8 x 18 Compact 8 brand new (1989, still had the protective gunk on it) but missing the motor and drive pulley. I've been working in metals most of my life, ten years as a mechanic, steel construction, building, trained as an electrician, the list is long. Anyway, this is why I have tools that I've built but can't remember much about them! I have only had thread cutting capacity a few months!
So it's time to build a real boring bar 40cm 25mm hot rolled was cut off and centred and centre drilled on both ends in the four jaw on the Colchester.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/millflat_zps39417dd3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/millflat_zps39417dd3.jpg.html)
I milled a flat in the middle.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/centre_zps8de12bad.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/centre_zps8de12bad.jpg.html)
Centre bored it and drilled 6mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/90degeyeball_zpsc1dfc4c0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/90degeyeball_zpsc1dfc4c0.jpg.html)
Using the the 6mm bit I eyeballed it 90° to the first hole to drill a 5mm, m6 tapping size hole.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/centretap_zps900c1b7b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/centretap_zps900c1b7b.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/grindoops_zps80bdbfd5.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/grindoops_zps80bdbfd5.jpg.html)
I didn't get past centre drilling, I forgot to tighten the vices, Ooops, so I drilled it from the other side.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/tap_zps9955d599.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/tap_zps9955d599.jpg.html)
Tapped M6.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/deadtap_zps290e00eb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/deadtap_zps290e00eb.jpg.html)
I cut the ends of a suitable broken 6mm Ø tap for the bit.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/grind2_zps7707f8d1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/grind2_zps7707f8d1.jpg.html)
Mounted in the universal vice on the Clarkson Cool & Tutter grinder to grind a flat face that will serve as a reference to grind the tip and orientate the tool in the boring bar.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/grind3_zpsedc1fb16.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/grind3_zpsedc1fb16.jpg.html)
Grinding one side of the point. I seem to have forgotten to take a pics of centring the point and giving it some front rake.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/measure/P1020744_zps79697ecb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/measure/P1020744_zps79697ecb.jpg.html)
Grinding the top rake.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bigdrill/27mmdrill_zps5a734108.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bigdrill/27mmdrill_zps5a734108.jpg.html)
So far, I'd bored out to 25mm, I wasn't going to be able to fit a 25mm boring bar in without some drilling. A 27mm to see how it went through the cotter. No apparent deviation and a very nice finish.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bigdrill/28mmdrill_zps7c7da6f4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bigdrill/28mmdrill_zps7c7da6f4.jpg.html)
All's well, so I thought I'd run a 28mm through to give more room for chip clearance.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/grindtest_zps1ab334b8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/grindtest_zps1ab334b8.jpg.html)
First test cut.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/newboringbar/goodbar_zps5f2a04d8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/newboringbar/goodbar_zps5f2a04d8.jpg.html)
In use.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/measure/P1020749_zps0a415311.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/measure/P1020749_zps0a415311.jpg.html)
I don't trust my cheepo digital callipers, so I bought myself some bore gauges.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/measure/P1020751_zps258fe528.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/measure/P1020751_zps258fe528.jpg.html)
Without trying I hit 28.5mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/measure/P1020752_zpsc7d413a6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/measure/P1020752_zpsc7d413a6.jpg.html)
To adjust the boring bar I used this tool that I think is in the Gingery Lathe book.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/measure/P1020753_zps0c79b8af.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/measure/P1020753_zps0c79b8af.jpg.html)
The feeler gauge is put in the tool and the set screw, once the tightened, you take out the feeler gauges and adjust the tool up to the set screw.
While I was doing the last cut, over confident, I wrote down the figures, calculated a it less than half the diameter I wanted, remounted the bar and didn't do a test in the bore, over confident, I bored away until a little before the cotter, took out the bar to make sure there was no chip build up before cutting the steel, measured, oversize! ****! Reset the bar, took a small cut, remeasured, another cut, and the last third was perfect! I still don't see how I did it, The only thing I can think of is I absent-mindedly set it twice. I can always make a sleeve so it'll be OK.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/flycutter/fly1_zpsef9d3054.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/flycutter/fly1_zpsef9d3054.jpg.html)
I didn't have a Morse 3 fly cutter, so I threw together a quick one, A piece of cold rolled brazed to a broken milling cutter shank, a grub screw and the tool from the boring bar.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/flycutter/fly4_zps36fc1a93.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/flycutter/fly4_zps36fc1a93.jpg.html)
The first cut revealed that when I set up the casting on the boring table I didn't put it far enough back so it misses the the front bottom corner of the casting. I decided that as it wasn't critical I'd just file that off rather than move the part.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/badfit/badfit_zps80c03969.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/badfit/badfit_zps80c03969.jpg.html)
Here it is spindle in place, I'll do some more work on the spindle before I sleeve out my mistake!
Cheers, Matthew
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Lovely.
Well done.
I really enjoy it, here from Barcelona.
.hannu (hanermo)
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That surely is a Gingery boring bar gauge! I used the same to set the bar for my tailstock and headstock bores. It works very well. :thumbup:
Besides a measurement mistake, sometimes when boring aluminum castings you can pick up a bit of aluminum swarf, friction welded to the tip of your cutter, and it will enlarge the bore -- the same way it happens on a regular lathe tool. I don't know if this happened in your case. Coolant helps prevent this, but I've learned the hard way that It's best to sneak up on the final bore in home cast aluminum by stages and measurements.
Thanks so much again for all the pics, and for openly talking about mistakes -- we all make them, and it helps to see how to fix them, and also reminds us to check carefully when doing similar operations. :thumbup: :clap:
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Thanks Hanno!
Vt, I'm pretty sure that it's a short circuit between the ears! I kept the bore pretty full of WD40. The noise didn't change and the surface finish was extremely good, a chip stuck on the tool would have left scores in the bore. I can sleeve the bore and I won't have lost anything.
Thanks for confirming it is a Gingery gauge, it's a nice simple idea.
This an interesting learning process, taking the photos and writing up the build is a good way of seeing what I've done and how to go forward from here.
Thank you both for your replies! Regards, Matthew
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Hi
Shame about that like you say a slive will sort it
That is why I bored mine first then did the mandrell
Coming along very nicely
John
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Thanks John,
at least, of all the things that could have gone wrong, that's the easiest thing to correct. I just have to make sure that I never go without checking, measuring the cut when so close to the end! Over confident!
regards, Matthew
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Mathew, Don't give up! You're doing great. I'm watching your build closely as I hope to make the same DH. Bought the book, followed John's build and following yours. I'm still at the point of building my foundry to make the casting, so am way behind you and John.
Chuck
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Chuck,
thanks for the encouragement, I never even thought about giving up!
Regards, Matthew
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Matt, just a point of interest about the Gingery boring bar gauge in case anyone reading wants to make one -- I was just looking again at your picture and noticed that you are using the head of a bolt for contact with the feeler and cutter. I think the original used the other end of the bolt, rounded slightly to give a distinct contact point for the feeler gauge and cutter for highest accuracy.
However that assumed a square cutter, as shown in the Gingery lathe book, which couldn't rotate in the square hole filed into the boring bar. With a round cutter in a round hole which might rotate slightly during adjustment, I guess you need a flat end for the gauge anvil.
If so, It might help to keep the flat as small as possible, though -- it doesn't have to be a greater diameter than the cutter is. It would probably be helpful to machine that flat to make sure it absolutely square and smooth with the bolt axis. Bolts on this side of the pond have raised letters and grade symbols formed on the top of the head, and you'd want that off, and the surface to be really true as well, since you rotate it to make an adjustment. Half a thou difference side to side in the bolt head could mean half a thou difference in depth of cut.
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How about flat/domed point set screw for adjustement screw?
PekkaNF
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VT and PekkaNF,
I cannot for the life of me remember why I did it that way! The bolts in question have flat heads.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/boreing%20bar%20gauge/adjustbbgauge_zps23fe9390.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/boreing%20bar%20gauge/adjustbbgauge_zps23fe9390.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/boreing%20bar%20gauge/borebargage_zps98a24643.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/boreing%20bar%20gauge/borebargage_zps98a24643.jpg.html)
Looking at the tool again, having all three heads on the same side would have made it more difficult to use. As you can see, I cut a screwdriver slot in the adjusting screw. I don't think I thought about it at the time, but I used M6 bolts, these have a 1mm thread. 1 turn = 1 mm I don't remember what the Gingery on looked like, I lost the lathe book when I moved here. A useful little tool, I don't think it was responsible for my mistake!!
Thanks for your comments, regards, Matthew
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Now that you mention it Matt, I started to wonder how mine worked with three bolt heads together like that! Dug around and found a photo -- turns out it was only two bolts. Those and a piece of bent strap, and a piece of square keystock, per Gingery. Two screws and you've got a gauge capable of easily adjusting a boring cutter by a thousandth of an inch. Or less if you have shim stock that thin. Always so simple. Here's the pic:
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy150/vtsr/vtsr/TecumsehBuild/BoringBarandAdjustersm.jpg) (http://s786.photobucket.com/user/vtsr/media/vtsr/TecumsehBuild/BoringBarandAdjustersm.jpg.html)
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VT,
two bolts. I don't know why I added the third. I also added lock nuts, I suppose I was afraid it might unscrew when taking out the feeler gauge!
Thanks for your thoughts, regards, Matthew
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Lock nuts definitely good idea -- on mine they are on top, out of the picture against the bolt heads. They would be screwed down against the block of key stock when making an adjustment.
I like yours just as well -- it shows the same principle can be used in lots of ways -- and your memory of the book was really sharp. Enough to work out an equivalent tool with what was on hand. I think that's the real value of those books -- gives you a feel for solutions to problems with very simple materials and means, by intuition. Gingery kick started people into their own capability. He did for me anyway.
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Hi,
you give my memory far too much credit! I made the gauge over ten years ago. I got into casting through Gingery although I didn't build the series, I made lots of pulleys, sacrificial face plates, machine handles, various parts and a dividing head using a 100/1 worm gear it's big and cumbersome and 100 to 1 is not very practical. I think this gear type dividing head is far more suited to my temperament.
regards, Matthew
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Now that I've established that the diameter of the spindle is final it's time to make the chuck mounting.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindlenose/spindlenose_zps76b9a636.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindlenose/spindlenose_zps76b9a636.jpg.html)
I found this drawing on the web sometime ago, I don't know where I got it from, there was no signature. If it's a no no, I'll take it down with pleasure! I thought it might be usefull to somebody that has a Compact 8
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindlenose/7deg1_zps39e52b84.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindlenose/7deg1_zps39e52b84.jpg.html)
To get a rough position for the top-slide, I G clamped a piece of 15mm x 15mm cold rolled to the side of the top-slide, and wound in the cross-slide. I couldn't see any light between the cone and the CRS.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindlenose/7deg2_zps52a30522.jpeg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindlenose/7deg2_zps52a30522.jpeg.html)
The method for finally setting the topslide came from John, Double Boost. The bolts holding the top-slide are nipped up lightly, the dial gauge is mounted to the top-slide at centre height, the top-slide is bumped gently to adjust.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindlenose/7deg3_zpse49edea7.jpeg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindlenose/7deg3_zpse49edea7.jpeg.html)
I got to within 1/100 of a millimetre, which I decided would be OK to start.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindlenose/7deg4_zps23b8e77b.jpeg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindlenose/7deg4_zps23b8e77b.jpeg.html)
I should have roughed it out on the Colchester, there was quite a lot to take off!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindlenose/7deg5_zps21a4b498.jpeg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindlenose/7deg5_zps21a4b498.jpeg.html)
Some time later.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindlenose/7deg6_zpsdc1e9eba.jpeg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindlenose/7deg6_zpsdc1e9eba.jpeg.html)
Getting nearer!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020784_zps1743a2de.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020784_zps1743a2de.jpg.html)
Close enough to start bluing! "Muppet", it is easier if you blue the chuck rather than the shaft, that way you take off the blue and not where the blue isn't!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020785_zps4a1c147c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020785_zps4a1c147c.jpg.html)
My lathe is new, as you can see it cuts towards the spindle centre using the cross-slide.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020786_zps14fc4a9b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020786_zps14fc4a9b.jpg.html)
Delicately, a bit at a time.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020787_zps40af99df.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020787_zps40af99df.jpg.html)
I have a little shoulder to remove from the corner.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020788_zps870cd06c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020788_zps870cd06c.jpg.html)
I recessed the shoulder.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020789_zpsdee936e8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020789_zpsdee936e8.jpg.html)
Closer!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020790_zps185d4868.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020790_zps185d4868.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020791_zps1c80855b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020791_zps1c80855b.jpg.html)
Ooops! I'd deliberately left it thick at large diameter to allow for taking too much of the cone!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020794_zps3f95c378.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020794_zps3f95c378.jpg.html)
I'm not going to show you all the bluing, it's too monotonous!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020796_zpsbffbd61e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020796_zpsbffbd61e.jpg.html)
Now we're getting somewhere!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020797_zpsf9d04855.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020797_zpsf9d04855.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020798_zpsd92b1ece.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020798_zpsd92b1ece.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020800_zps7150bc66.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020800_zps7150bc66.jpg.html)
The finish is better than it looks! A clean up with emery-cloth, coarse and fine,
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bluenose/P1020801_zps5744ee70.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bluenose/P1020801_zps5744ee70.jpg.html)
Knocking of the sharp bits.
That's it for tonight, regards, Matthew
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Hi,
The split cotter.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterout_zpsbc8137ae.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterout_zpsbc8137ae.jpg.html)
The cotter is removed from the bore.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/cottercut_zps01bf0cfe.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/cottercut_zps01bf0cfe.jpg.html)
Cut in two.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle1_zpsb99b8cb3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle1_zpsb99b8cb3.jpg.html)
A piece of 18mm CRS round is chucked up, trued up and faced off.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle2_zpsc67a4dc3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle2_zpsc67a4dc3.jpg.html)
Centre bored.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle4_zpse2ea2043.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle4_zpse2ea2043.jpg.html)
Drilled 5mm and tapped M6
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle5_zps2a55afeb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle5_zps2a55afeb.jpg.html)
Sawn off, I still haven't got around to making a parting tool holder!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle6_zps252f8456.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle6_zps252f8456.jpg.html)
Faced off and the corners chamfered.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle20_zps4aac9d1c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle20_zps4aac9d1c.jpg.html)
The addition of a suitable piece of threaded bar. I'm out of 6mm round or a suitable bolt to make a "proper" stud!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle8_zpsbc359f04.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle8_zpsbc359f04.jpg.html)
I have neither an Ebonite ball as per the instructions, nor a ball turning attachment but I do have a ball bearing that I've softened by putting it in the barbecue (heating red hot) and leaving it to cool slowly in the ashes.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle9_zps0842a574.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle9_zps0842a574.jpg.html)
Turning a small flat on the ball.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle10_zps86b6222c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle10_zps86b6222c.jpg.html)
Centre drilling.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle12_zpse86d8292.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle12_zpse86d8292.jpg.html)
Drill 5mm tapping size for 6mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle11_zps36cbf870.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle11_zps36cbf870.jpg.html)
As the hole is short, I ground the point off a machine tap to make it a bottoming tap.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle13_zps0db530e4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle13_zps0db530e4.jpg.html)
Tapping the ball.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle19_zps3cd6dae2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle19_zps3cd6dae2.jpg.html)
Tapped!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle21_zps9430d960.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle21_zps9430d960.jpg.html)
As I haven't got any 6mm round, I used a piece of 7mm, turning it down to 6mm and chamfering the end.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle22_zpse228d4da.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle22_zpse228d4da.jpg.html)
Threading with a 6mm die. I had forgotten just how worn that die is, I had to put it on backwards to finish the thread.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle23_zpsf48cb4ce.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle23_zpsf48cb4ce.jpg.html)
Not a pretty sight, but it should hold the ball!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle24_zpse782884d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle24_zpse782884d.jpg.html)
The other end I threaded 7mm, a size that isn't common even hear in the heart of Metric France! Bad planning, I could have done both ends 7mms!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle26_zpsd7980098.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle26_zpsd7980098.jpg.html)
Cleaned up ready to install.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle27_zps7a9a3e06.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle27_zps7a9a3e06.jpg.html)
With the split cotter now in place, the "closer" is screwed in and tightened by hand to establish where the position of the lever. Marked with a scribe.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle29_zps877b7cb9.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle29_zps877b7cb9.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle30_zps9d2e3b3d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle30_zps9d2e3b3d.jpg.html)
A 7mm flat is milled on the side. Kieth Fenner demonstrates this method in his Shafting video (youtube). When the milled surface is square, you "eyeball" the milling tool so that it's in the centre.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle33_zps42d980ad.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle33_zps42d980ad.jpg.html)
Centre drilled.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle34_zpsd495a659.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle34_zpsd495a659.jpg.html)
Drilled 6mm, Tapped M7.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/handle35_zps5107bec2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/handle35_zps5107bec2.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/cotterhandle/finished_zps0fff3e11.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/cotterhandle/finished_zps0fff3e11.jpg.html)
The completed split cotter and it's handle.
That's it for now , regards, Matthew
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Looking good Matt! :thumbup:
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thats cuming on nice a bit of topic have you got the travalnshons ofing stedy for your lathe if so can you do a diagram ofit so i can mack one for my lath
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thats cuming on nice a bit of topic have you got the travalnshons ofing stedy for your lathe if so can you do a diagram ofit so i can mack one for my lath
Thanks KRV. Sorry, I can't help with either kind of steady for your lathe.
Regards, Matthew
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Looking good Matt! :thumbup:
Thanks VT! It's good for the morale!
Regards, Matthew
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thats cuming on nice a bit of topic have you got the travalnshons ofing stedy for your lathe if so can you do a diagram ofit so i can mack one for my lath
Thanks KRV. Sorry, I can't help with either kind of steady for your lathe.
Regards, Matthew
Hi KRV, I came across the parts manual for the compact 8 pages 22 and 23 are traveling steady and fixed steady. I hope this is of some use!
Regards, Matthew
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Hi,
to finish off the ends of the body casting, I turned the work round in the lathe to fly cut the other end.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bigdrill/Cast%20nose/flycut1_zps8f6af049.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bigdrill/Cast%20nose/flycut1_zps8f6af049.jpg.html)
Set up.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bigdrill/Cast%20nose/flycut2_zps36f33a06.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bigdrill/Cast%20nose/flycut2_zps36f33a06.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/bigdrill/Cast%20nose/flycut3_zps8d422560.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/bigdrill/Cast%20nose/flycut3_zps8d422560.jpg.html)
Finished. Now, both of the ends of the bore are square with the bore which will enable me to put it between centres on the Colchester to tun down the recess for the banjo, surface the banjo end face.
I want to see how the casting for the banjo is. There are signs of slight pitting.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo/banjo1_zps75360f9b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo/banjo1_zps75360f9b.jpg.html)
Setting up to face one edge.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo/banjo2_zps858642cf.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo/banjo2_zps858642cf.jpg.html)
Taking the top off.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo/banjo3_zpsa2574670.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo/banjo3_zpsa2574670.jpg.html)
Having skimmed both sides, the work will sit nicely in the vices.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo/banjo4_zps8ffedb22.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo/banjo4_zps8ffedb22.jpg.html)
My mill is slightly out of tram, not enough to be a problem here. As I'm going to rotate the head later, its not worth adjusting it now.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo/banjo5_zps000c1f5e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo/banjo5_zps000c1f5e.jpg.html)
Having skimmed the other side, I set up the work on a round bar and got it as straight as I could between the trued sides.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo/banjo6_zpsc4e2f2eb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo/banjo6_zpsc4e2f2eb.jpg.html)
A true face.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo/banjo7_zpseb31b37d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo/banjo7_zpseb31b37d.jpg.html)
Turned back over, on parallels to bring the first face into parallel with the second.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjolayout/layout1_zpsddfa542f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjolayout/layout1_zpsddfa542f.jpg.html)
In order to layout the position of the hole on the Banjo, I started by bluing it with marking fluid and measuring it with my height gauge.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjolayout/layout2_zpscfb3a8cd.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjolayout/layout2_zpscfb3a8cd.jpg.html)
I missed a photo of drawing the line with the height gauge. The gauge was adjusted to half the height and I scribed a line with it along the centre. Using the dividers I scribed the largest circle I could get into the piece of work.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjolayout/layout3_zps05da4517.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjolayout/layout3_zps05da4517.jpg.html)
Centring the the part to the middle of the future bore.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo%202/banjo21_zps84cba28c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo%202/banjo21_zps84cba28c.jpg.html)
The same old boring process. Centre drilling.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo%202/banjo22_zps8e5a27e3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo%202/banjo22_zps8e5a27e3.jpg.html)
A biggish pilot drill.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo%202/banjo23_zpsffedfda1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo%202/banjo23_zpsffedfda1.jpg.html)
More drilling!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo%202/banjo24_zps4b5f6506.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo%202/banjo24_zps4b5f6506.jpg.html)
Again!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo%202/banjo25_zps022bebd2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo%202/banjo25_zps022bebd2.jpg.html)
43mm! I'm roughly 2mm off final dimension.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo%202/banjo26_zpsf49a007c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo%202/banjo26_zpsf49a007c.jpg.html)
I wanted to see how deep the pitting was. I think it's superficial and a lot of it will go with the final bore.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast3/centres1_zps0cbe9f0c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast3/centres1_zps0cbe9f0c.jpg.html)
Between centres, I turned a shouldered piece of large round in the four-jaw and then turned a cone on it. As you can see, I tried it as it was , it worked, but a dog was in order.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast3/centres2_zpsff5513c9.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast3/centres2_zpsff5513c9.jpg.html)
Dogged!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast3/centres3_zps12f5d233.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast3/centres3_zps12f5d233.jpg.html)
The Colchester is bolted on to a concrete riser block, no movement or vibration!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast3/centres4_zps03a05a93.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast3/centres4_zps03a05a93.jpg.html)
Squaring up the front edge of the base and beginning to turn down for the banjo seat.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast3/centres5_zps404bff5b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast3/centres5_zps404bff5b.jpg.html)
More of the same, I liked the photo!
That's as far as I've got for the moment! To be continued.
Regards, Matthew.
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Looking good mind you I would be standing out of the line of fire if those c clamps let go!
-
Tom,
Thanks Tom. I was well out of the way!
Regards, Matthew
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When i see solutions like this i always realize.. Safety is really subjective and you can get away many times with setups that makes gray hair grow on younger machinists that just got out of school.. :headbang:
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Nice work Matthew, those last pics look like fun...
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When i see solutions like this i always realize.. Safety is really subjective and you can get away many times with setups that makes gray hair grow on younger machinists that just got out of school.. :headbang:
Too late for me! And I ain't dying it black.
I like a faceplate and angle iron, bolted part, and a counterweight because that's what I started out with. But if I didn't have those, I'd probably cob something up. So, guilty, but gray, too!
-
Just realized there may be some idiom trouble in my last statement -- on this side of the pond (and in this state at least) the word cob is the equivalent and shortened form of "to cobble."
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Mayhem,
it was fun!!
Neotech,
there's very little force exerted on those "G" clamps, they are cheepo, which means that the surface of the clamp is rough and tends to bite in!
They are 2", 50mm clamps so they don't weigh much!! As for the white hair, I couldn't get any whiter!!
VT,
it goes between centres, so I could have drilled two holes in a piece of flat bar and bolted it on but, "getter done!" Idioms with explanations, this forum is a great place for an ever expanding vocabulary!
Regards, Matthew
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Coming along very well
John
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Thanks John, I'm enjoying it, I just hope that I can keep on having time to do it!
Regards, Matthew
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hi its shaping up nice thanks for the hellp regarding the stedys i have the parts manuwel but it gives no dimenchons i will just have to figer them out
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KRV,
the only critical dimensions for the fixed steady are centre height and the "foot" where it sits on the bed. Even these aren't that critical as the adjustment in the three finger can compensate!
Thanks for the encouragement on the dividing head!
Regards, Matthew
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Hi,
I just had to upgrade photobucket, I was over the 100Giga /month bandwidth. I hope nobody was inconvenienced by this!
Back to turning down the "nose" of the main casting.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Centres_zps7254396a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Centres_zps7254396a.jpg.html)
For those of you who see me as dicing with death, The casting is between centres, it's running at around 150rpm, so the loads on those two "G" clamps is pretty low. Fortunately it's not running in a division of 50 hertz so it looks like it's spinning although I can't really see it clearly! Mind your fingers!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Formtool2_zpsc18b8dd1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Formtool2_zpsc18b8dd1.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Formtool1_zps407e2855.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Formtool1_zps407e2855.jpg.html)
I'm using a form tool to cut a radius in the corner of the nose, the tool itself is difficult to see.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Shoulder1_zps7022cc9a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Shoulder1_zps7022cc9a.jpg.html)
Beginning the cut on the shoulder where the banjo sits.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Shoulder2_zps66bd280d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Shoulder2_zps66bd280d.jpg.html)
More shoulder!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Shoulder3_zpse954bc3d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Shoulder3_zpse954bc3d.jpg.html)
I don't have any dials on this lathe, I prefer using a "clock" it's "what you see is what you get", at least, as far as the radius is concerned!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Shoulder5_zpsed47c290.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Shoulder5_zpsed47c290.jpg.html)
Getting close! I see that I didn't take any photos of measuring with the mike!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Shoulder6_zps503246bd.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Shoulder6_zps503246bd.jpg.html)
I do like action shots.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Shoulder8_zps414d6c0f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Shoulder8_zps414d6c0f.jpg.html)
45° tool, taking of the sharp corners, hmm, it's a bit hard to see!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Cast4/Shoulder7_zpsfc948a9d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Cast4/Shoulder7_zpsfc948a9d.jpg.html)
At least I got this one right! Now I can go back to the banjo.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/acentrefind1_zps534d292a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/acentrefind1_zps534d292a.jpg.html)
Centring the bore.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/Bore1_zpsb3ddd1a7.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/Bore1_zpsb3ddd1a7.jpg.html)
First cut.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/Bore2_zps85069ff1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/Bore2_zps85069ff1.jpg.html)
This is an imperial boring head, I find it easier to use a dial gauge to adjust, nice big dial, instead of a tiny little thing in thousands of an inch!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/Bore3_zps7e33b2f0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/Bore3_zps7e33b2f0.jpg.html)
I bought this bore gauge set for this job, a cheepo that I had to smooth the ridges of the ends before it would work properly.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/Bore4_zps7fd36a62.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/Bore4_zps7fd36a62.jpg.html)
A nice sliding fit!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal1_zps6cad89df.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal1_zps6cad89df.jpg.html)
One of the nice things about this milling machine is you can also use it horizontally. Finding the centre of the thickness of the banjo.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal2_zps7324f4b9.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal2_zps7324f4b9.jpg.html)
Finding the top to place the hole for the pinch bolt.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal3_zpsaaf2b51c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal3_zpsaaf2b51c.jpg.html)
The usual suspects, centre bore.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal4_zpse72c7bf4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal4_zpse72c7bf4.jpg.html)
Muppet! I had to centre bore twice, I forgot to deduct the 5mm radius of the centre finder!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal5_zps3df9ee1d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal5_zps3df9ee1d.jpg.html)
Drill, 6.75mm right through, tapping size for 8mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal6_zps92992fea.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal6_zps92992fea.jpg.html)
Drill half way through, 8mm clearance.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal7_zps4a00d5a4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal7_zps4a00d5a4.jpg.html)
I had to tap with an adjustable spanner, I don't trust my self to power tap and you can't just switch off and let it run through, there's a serious very efficient spindle brake.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal8_zps49b236b8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal8_zps49b236b8.jpg.html)
I didn't measure the cutter, a second hand one, beautifully sharp, 1mm under the 19mm marked on it!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal9_zps752b0ee3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal9_zps752b0ee3.jpg.html)
The next on up is 22mm so I had to lift it to take the corners off as well.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal10_zps07a3c805.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal10_zps07a3c805.jpg.html)
I have three of these arbours, by the paint marks on them one of them is bent! They're 25.4mm the French don't know that they're using inches on some of their tooling!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal11_zpse91fdd33.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal11_zpse91fdd33.jpg.html)
2mm slitting saw.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal12_zps79efc2a1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal12_zps79efc2a1.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Banjo5/horizontal13_zps1d8606e0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Banjo5/horizontal13_zps1d8606e0.jpg.html)
It works!
That's it for now, be back soon, regards, Matthew
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Exellent job your doing! :clap:
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Exellent job your doing! :clap:
Well Tom, I'm not very convinced by the "Excellent job", I've been putting off boring out to sleeve as it's taken the wind out of my sales!
Anyway, here we go!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/square/square2_zps25488c57.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/square/square2_zps25488c57.jpg.html)
Before re-boring to sleeve, I decided to square up the two remaining sides. To do this I moved the locating pins to allow mounting 90°s from the boring axis. I had a bit of trouble seating, one of the pins was a little proud which made it rock. I didn't think much of this and proceeded to square up and clamp down.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/square/square3_zpsf8d01751.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/square/square3_zpsf8d01751.jpg.html)
Fly cutting the first side.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/square/square5_zpsfb9d89e2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/square/square5_zpsfb9d89e2.jpg.html)
Checking the first face for square.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/square/square6_zpsdb6deb18.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/square/square6_zpsdb6deb18.jpg.html)
The second face was very close to the carriage.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/square/square7_zps07d34248.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/square/square7_zps07d34248.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/square/square8_zps64940cdf.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/square/square8_zps64940cdf.jpg.html)
Not much room for manoeuvre!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/square/square9_zpsfbbb5146.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/square/square9_zpsfbbb5146.jpg.html)
It cleaned nicely. So, on to the boring bit.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/rebore/rebore1_zps74902497.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/rebore/rebore1_zps74902497.jpg.html)
Centring the bore.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/rebore/rebore1b_zps495b2235.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/rebore/rebore1b_zps495b2235.jpg.html)
I'm too absent minded to count the number of turns of the handle of the cross slide, so I "G" clamped a pair of callipers to the cross slide.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/rebore/rebore2_zpsc2b8ebe2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/rebore/rebore2_zpsc2b8ebe2.jpg.html)
Having found the first side with an edge finder, zeroed and and back to the second edge.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/rebore/rebore4_zpsc2b64b01.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/rebore/rebore4_zpsc2b64b01.jpg.html)
Wound back to half the distance et voila, the centre.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/rebore/rebore6_zpsfc7eb9d8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/rebore/rebore6_zpsfc7eb9d8.jpg.html)
The crunch, not only was the bore over sized, it was also high on the left and low on the right!! I obviously hadn't screwed the guide dowels in far enough when I bored it first time round. I've been back over the photos I think I can see screw threads that show that both of the pins are proud! Result, I have to sleeve both ends and remake the split cotter.!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/rebore/rebore5_zps20e3f899.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/rebore/rebore5_zps20e3f899.jpg.html)
To allow me to remove the casting and put it back in the same place (I'm going to press the sleeves in.) I made a stop with two bolts to be sure it won't move!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/rebore/perrier_zpsc17a0aeb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/rebore/perrier_zpsc17a0aeb.jpg.html)
This is my piece of Al for the sleeves, if you look closely, you can see "Perrier" written on it. I use "Soda" cans buried in in dry sand as ingot moulds, which also make nice "billets"!
That's it for today I hope to get back to this soon as I'd like to start on the next phase!
Regards, Matthew
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Hi,
I'm certainly learning a lot on this project! I don't think that this next bit is very interesting.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Sleeves/outofround_zpsc5a637c6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Sleeves/outofround_zpsc5a637c6.jpg.html)
You can see how far out the bore was. I wasn't sure whether it was worth sleeving or whether it would be better to go back to the beginning and cast another! I decided it was less work to bore it out.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Sleeves/reface_zps71a242d4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Sleeves/reface_zps71a242d4.jpg.html)
I bored out from both sides. I had to reface both ends so that the sleeves would fit flush.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Sleeves/plugs_zpsf67c499f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Sleeves/plugs_zpsf67c499f.jpg.html)
I made two sleeves, the one on the left is for the chuck end, I lengthened the sleeve so that the spindle would be offset to allow clearance for the chuck mounting nuts and studs, originally I had planned to add a steel spacer. The right hand one has the banjo mounting on it. I cut the banjo mount off the casting so that the banjo would mount square to the body and line up the gears. I also made another split cotter as lining up the old one wasn't worth the effort! I've already documented the boring operation.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Sleeves/16tonpress_zpsc9aa1c1c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Sleeves/16tonpress_zpsc9aa1c1c.jpg.html)
I pressed in the interference fit plugs in with my 16ton press. I trued up the end faces of the casting between centres and fitted the spindle.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/done_zpsa7975322.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/done_zpsa7975322.jpg.html)
So, here it is, where I thought I was about a week ago! I managed to get a nice sliding fit on the shaft. Fortunately, the shaft is 30mm, so I was able to use one of my Moore & Wright bore gauges which helped a lot! I bought a cheap set of bore gauges that really aren't worth bothering with. I was thinking about a dial bore gauge anybody got any suggestions.
Now I can get back to the project! regards, Matthew.
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Must feel good to know you've fixed a problem, done it right, and that it is what it is supposed to be. There is satisfaction in that, even though you wanted to move on. It's a good tool you've made, and are making. :thumbup: :clap:
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Thanks VT,
yes it's nice to have saved the project, to get it right when it was well off the rails! I'm looking forward to being able to use it.
Regards, Matthew
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Hi,
I've been a bit apprehensive about the next bit. I've only done a couple of threads before. I decided to make the spindle threads first, I've got a lot of work in the spindle, so get it right, then even though it's supposed to be easier to fit an outside thread to an inside I wouldn't mind making nuts as I would making another spindle!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle%20thread/spindlethread1_zps83728e6d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle%20thread/spindlethread1_zps83728e6d.jpg.html)
I turned the end of the spindle down to 28mm, (2mm under the spindle diameter) and turned a run out for the thread.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle%20thread/spindlethread2_zpse6ae125c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle%20thread/spindlethread2_zpse6ae125c.jpg.html)
So far so good, M1 thread, first pass OK with the right pitch.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle%20thread/spindlethread3_zps7967ea35.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle%20thread/spindlethread3_zps7967ea35.jpg.html)
I didn't use the top slide although it was set at 29.5°, I felt I' mix things up, a 1mm thread is only half a millimetre per side the depth of cut is easier on the cross slide.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/spindle%20thread/spindlethread4_zpsc2fbd725.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/spindle%20thread/spindlethread4_zpsc2fbd725.jpg.html)
That was a lot easier than I thought! Had I screwed up I could always make it a 27X1mm thread!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts1_zps74983925.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts1_zps74983925.jpg.html)
On to the nuts, I roughed these out on the Colchester, faster and capable of drilling bigger holes.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts2_zps7e0b49e8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts2_zps7e0b49e8.jpg.html)
The usual, after centre drilling step drill.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts4_zpsc9a824a0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts4_zpsc9a824a0.jpg.html)
I seem to have missed out a few steps, I've gone from 6mm to 22mm, there were a few intermediary sizes in between.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts5_zps693c11b6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts5_zps693c11b6.jpg.html)
Final size, 25mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts6_zps7f15192d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts6_zps7f15192d.jpg.html)
Back to the Emco, the three jaw chuck is pretty accurate, I could now true up the rusty bit to be able to have a nice symmetrical part.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts7_zps17bed65d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts7_zps17bed65d.jpg.html)
Boring out to 27mm for the 28x1mm thread, which is close to a 24tpi thread.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts8_zpsb1ddf6b8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts8_zpsb1ddf6b8.jpg.html)
I re-ground a broken tap which was easier than making an internal threading tool. It would have been easier to use a larger metric tap as they are all 60°. As the "point" is only a 0.5mm triangle, it's hard to see. A longer reach would have been better.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts9_zps1868c642.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts9_zps1868c642.jpg.html)
I had amongst my second hand tool bits a an acme tool bit which was a good size for making a run out groove for the thread.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts10_zps8c2a859c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts10_zps8c2a859c.jpg.html)
When I ground the tool, I ground the back of the tool parallel so that when lined up with the part, I knew it was square with the job.
I was a bit concentrated on the work in hand so I forgot a few photos. Amongst other things, I had to run the carriage half the length of the bed to be able to test fit the spindle. It all went smoothly and I ended up with a nice fitting thread.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts14_zps77742c9a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts14_zps77742c9a.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts12_zpse843209e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts12_zpse843209e.jpg.html)
I need to make myself a decent rear mounted parting tool. I improvised and ended up finishing with the hacksaw. It was the last straw for the 25 year old drive belt which had already stretched, it snapped in half.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts13_zps162789bc.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts13_zps162789bc.jpg.html)
The broken belt meant that it was back to the Colchester three jaw, which, isn't the best thing to surface thin nuts. however, I was able to work on the centres which at least were parallel with the face of the chuck.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts15_zpsf3d5d55f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts15_zpsf3d5d55f.jpg.html)
The two nuts.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts17_zpseca2f0ee.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts17_zpseca2f0ee.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts18_zps23a992c3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts18_zps23a992c3.jpg.html)
I was able to use the spindle as a mandrel between centres to surface the nuts.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts20_zpsaf11599a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts20_zpsaf11599a.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/Nuts/nuts19_zps7459840f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/Nuts/nuts19_zps7459840f.jpg.html)
I had thought that I could use the dividing head to drill the holes in the nuts, but without the drive belt, (It's on order from the UK, out of stock in Belgium) it would be a bit difficult.
I'm pleased with my threading and the end result, now it's make all the little bits.
To be continued.
-
Ahh, progress! :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap:
Matt you're good at showing there are many alternate paths to a result. It's fun seeing how you do things, and a couple ideas are stored away here if I ever get stuck somewhere as alternatives.
I've been gradually switching over to the link belts for spindles at least, Each time I buy a length, there is always some left over -- eventually I'll have enough to make up a quick spare for just about anything that breaks. Actually if you aren't using one machine with a link belt, in a pinch you can borrow it for another machine with a broken belt, assuming it is long enough.
Great work. Keep it up, you're almost there!
-
Thanks Steve,
I'm getting to the part where there are lots of little bits to make. The Emco has an extraordinary 5mm wide belt, that's not a typo, it's 5mm. No link belts available. The motor that I've got mounted to it came of a V10 which is about twice as powerful as the original. About a week ago it stretched, that's when I started thinking about a spare! I've done the single point threading, all the rest can be done with taps and dies on the Colchester.
I'm enjoying myself when things go forward!!
Regards, Matthew
-
I like his bench. It's cluttered with 'stuff'.
Now I don't feel so alone.
Dave. :thumbup:
-
Coming along very nicely
John
-
Dave,
the clutter is a life long battle. I'm working on it, but I'm glad it reassures you, at least that way there's some positive in it!
John,
thanks!
regards, Matthew
-
Hi,
for the next part of my dividing head I'm going to need a fixed steady. I started building one a long time ago, I hadn't yet bought my milling machine and my shaper wasn't set up.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady1_zps78d76321.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady1_zps78d76321.jpg.html)
It needs a foot to bolt it to the bed of the lathe to become operational.
The base is cut out 15mm hot rolled, the thickest I can cut with my plasma cutter.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady2_zps6b0cd9b1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady2_zps6b0cd9b1.jpg.html)
A piece of 20x50mm for the foot.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady3_zps04e6a395.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady3_zps04e6a395.jpg.html)
A "v" was cut into the block to fit onto the V ways of the bed.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady4_zps77636e28.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady4_zps77636e28.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady5_zps027323bd.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady5_zps027323bd.jpg.html)
I then milled two flats so that the foot would sit down square on the bed.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady6_zps7d68f774.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady6_zps7d68f774.jpg.html)
To fix the "foot" to the ways I used a piece of 40 x 20 into which I milled 2 steps so that the middle fitted between the ways. I drilled and tapped M20 in the middle for the single fixing bolt.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady8_zpsf87c565d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady8_zpsf87c565d.jpg.html)
Test fit of the foot assembly.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady9_zpsca1f2ef9.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady9_zpsca1f2ef9.jpg.html)
To bridge the 28mm gap between the foot and the steady rest, I cut out a piece of cold 10mm x 50 and tacked it into place.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady10_zps9c2f0818.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady10_zps9c2f0818.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady11_zpsc93ccfbc.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady11_zpsc93ccfbc.jpg.html)
Test fit of the assembled steady rest.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/steady/steady12_zps19015a58.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/steady/steady12_zps19015a58.jpg.html)
Welded! I have two gussets to weld onto the base and it will be usable I hope.
I lost some of the photos of what i did today, I hope it's reasonably comprehensible. I'm glad to have made this tool usable, it will probably need modifications, but at least it's usable!
Regards, Matthew
-
Love that steady.
I really need to make one for each of my lathes as there are one or two part finished projects that I can't complete without one. I was thinking along similar lines. But without the ball races.
The clutter is also the bane of my life. But I have a pathalogical fear of throwing anything out.
Dave.
-
Thanks Dave,
this dividing head is pushing me into new areas that I'm enjoying, I have to finish the steady do the next bit. The tools to make tools!
I just have too many things to organize.
regards, Matthew
-
Just back from holiday in France, and caught up with this project. Great job, well written and great photos, thanks for sharing.
John
-
Nice looking steady Matt! :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap: :beer:
-
:mmr:
Just back from holiday in France, and caught up with this project. Great job, well written and great photos, thanks for sharing.
John
Thanks for the nice words, it's nice to have feed back! More soon.
Where in France?
Matthew
-
Nice looking steady Matt! :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap: :beer:
Steady as she goes! I realise that the only real steady that I've seen is the one I just finished! I owe a lot to the internet and people sharing!
Matthew
-
hi and well dun
-
La Jarousse, about 5k north of Jumilhac-le-Grand.
John
-
I haven’t been to the Dordoigne for a long time! Full of Britts from what I hear! Nice rolling countryside, and good food!
Regards, Matthew
-
Hi,
To enable me to finalise the length of the threads and the spindle, I had first to finish off the nuts.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/nuts2/nutsa_zps5f688733.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/nuts2/nutsa_zps5f688733.jpg.html)
Centre finder to place the radial hole in the nut, I did it the other way as well to centre on the edge as well.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/nuts2/nutsa_zps0d44335a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/nuts2/nutsa_zps0d44335a.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/nuts2/nutsb_zpsddf004b7.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/nuts2/nutsb_zpsddf004b7.jpg.html)
I centre drilled and then drilled at3.5mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final1_zpsaca6d912.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final1_zpsaca6d912.jpg.html)
I mounted the spindle in the Colchester with the fixed steady (three Al tabs to protect the spindle.. I had in between times done some experimenting, using a piece of 30mm cold rolled. The three skate bearings all had a tendency to run slightly tilted, which cut a groove in the test piece! A surprising narrow groove like a pipe cutter cut! I filed the ends of the fingers so that the opposite edges of the wheel touched first, counteracting the tendency to tilt. A bit of hand fitting with a file brought the rollers up straight and got rid of the groove.
The other thing that I did was to add twoon gussets to the base, not for strength, but for rigidity. I didn't take any photos of the "development" stage.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final2_zpsd1050698.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final2_zpsd1050698.jpg.html)
First operation, trim back the threads to their final length.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final3_zps8c1e0b85.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final3_zps8c1e0b85.jpg.html)
Drilling out to 16.5mm to begin the 17mm bore for the insert. I am making a system to change the size of the spindle end as I have three sets of change wheels that have different internal bores (12 14 and 16mm), each set also has it's own key size, so I couldn't just use sleeves to change diameters.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final4_zpsb44b7feb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final4_zpsb44b7feb.jpg.html)
The spindle is now cut to it's final length, allowing enough length for the locking screw for the interchangeable gear carriers.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final5_zps505fa478.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final5_zps505fa478.jpg.html)
Way back in the beginning of the thread, I'd drilled the spindle 12mm, the tapping size for14mm, here I'm tapping 14mm for the gear carrier.
Having bored out to 17mm and a taper down to 14mm to centre and guide the gear carrier.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final8_zps875a6231.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final8_zps875a6231.jpg.html)
Using the spindle as a mandrel to centre drill the end of the gear carrier after turning it down to 12mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final9_zps84974e9f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final9_zps84974e9f.jpg.html)
Drilling for 6.75, tapping diameter for M8.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final10_zpsa04b9519.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final10_zpsa04b9519.jpg.html)
Tapping M8 for the Gear retaining screw.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final11_zps4ce149d6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final11_zps4ce149d6.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final12_zpsdf9d2720.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final12_zpsdf9d2720.jpg.html)
Gear test fit.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final13_zps656fd888.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final13_zps656fd888.jpg.html)
12mm inside Ø Gear carrier, showing taper to allow alignment.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/final%20spindle/final15_zps3d59c2c2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/final%20spindle/final15_zps3d59c2c2.jpg.html)
So two more gear carriers to make, with their key ways and keys, before I start the banjo. One of my gear "sets" is a plastic one (mini lathe gear set), it looks to me to be better formed than one of the steel sets I have!
To be continued! Regards, Matthew
-
Great work, Mathew. I'm working on my furnace to be able to make the casting for this and other projects.
I like the taper feature on the gear carriers.
Chuck
-
Thanks Chuck!
It took me a long time to decide how I was going to make the interchangeable gear carriers, that's why I left that end of the shaft as long as possible. I had a vague idea in the beginning, which is why I drilled 14 and 12mm into the shaft, but I hadn't got anything clear. The angle is about 20° which means it's short and not locking. It seems to be working out OK!
Regards, Matthew
-
hi its all cuming together
-
Krv,
plodding along! By multiplying my gear potential by three, I'm also multiplying the gear mounting bits by three! So I'm plodding along! Quit a lot of little bits to go.
All the best, Matthew
-
Hi,
I realise from the number of photos that I just uploaded to Botophucket (dyslexia rules!) that I haven't updated in a while. In addition, I've decided to make it so that I can use three different sets of gears. Two disadvantages,:-
I. I can't drill for a draw bar to enable me to use a Morse taper which could have been useful.
II. I have a lot more little parts to make!
So here it is, starting with the gear carriers.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier1_zpsf08111da.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier1_zpsf08111da.jpg.html)
The top slide on the lathe still being set up with the taper (about 20°) it's a good place to start.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier3_zps9a07b89a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier3_zps9a07b89a.jpg.html)
By turning the end of the 17mmØ down to 14mm and flipping it round, I could then cut the taper in the same direction as it was cut on the inside of the spindle.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier5_zps6f0c15df.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier5_zps6f0c15df.jpg.html)
Cutting the M14 thread. I made four as who knows what gears might turn up in the future!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier6_zps1e00e700.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier6_zps1e00e700.jpg.html)
Three blanks plus the one that I already reduced to 14mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier7_zps12ed7aa6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier7_zps12ed7aa6.jpg.html)
I set the spindle up in the fixed steady to use it as a mandrel to reduce the ends of the carriers and to drill and tap to M8 for the gear retaining bolt.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier8_zps6dc34467.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier8_zps6dc34467.jpg.html)
The 12mm carrier test with a plastic gear!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier9_zps4f024aa4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier9_zps4f024aa4.jpg.html)
With the spindle once again set up in the dividing head, I centred with a centre finder and centre drilled for an M6 thread.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier10_zpsc88706f3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier10_zpsc88706f3.jpg.html)
Without moving the setup, I drilled all of the carriers 5mm .
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier11_zpsbb4a8e63.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier11_zpsbb4a8e63.jpg.html)
Tapping the spindle M6.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier12_zps2b93ec1b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier12_zps2b93ec1b.jpg.html)
The drive belts arrived today, now I can use that nice precise little three jaw and the power feed again!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier13_zps7d22b3eb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier13_zps7d22b3eb.jpg.html)
In addition, I can use my ER32 collets, handy when shortening and reducing grub screws.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier14_zps595c093e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier14_zps595c093e.jpg.html)
Grubscrew, now there will be two Allen key sizes on the dividing head.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier15_zps9b906b8b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier15_zps9b906b8b.jpg.html)
The finished product, just needs deburring. I forgot to take pictures of cutting the keyways. I was nervous, having never cut 3 and 4mm keyways with a 2mm slot drill before, my mill seems enormous with that tiny little end mill in it! No problems encountered!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier16_zps0f1fd411.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier16_zps0f1fd411.jpg.html)
All three of the key-ways are different! This is the Emco one which is four mm wide.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier17_zps9720e9e2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier17_zps9720e9e2.jpg.html)
Milling the keys to size.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/gear%20carrier/gearcarier18_zpsa2adbc7f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/gear%20carrier/gearcarier18_zpsa2adbc7f.jpg.html)
The three carriers finished with their respective gears and keys.
I may soft solder the keys in place so that they don't get lost.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo%20slots/banjoslots1_zpsbf035c2f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo%20slots/banjoslots1_zpsbf035c2f.jpg.html)
With the gear carriers done, I can get on with the Banjo. Spot the mistake!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo%20slots/banjoslots2_zpsc3cfd458.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo%20slots/banjoslots2_zpsc3cfd458.jpg.html)
Carving out the slots.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo%20slots/banjoslots4_zps7645f35e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo%20slots/banjoslots4_zps7645f35e.jpg.html)
The set up is flawed, having not tried to cut slots this way before, I hadn't thought about the fact that I was squeezing up on an area that I was removing metal from!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo%20slots/banjoslots5_zps1a35baea.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo%20slots/banjoslots5_zps1a35baea.jpg.html)
The Banjo gently started to rise in the vice, no damage, but another reminder about how to set up!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/banjo%20slots/banjoslots6_zps18f006cf.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/banjo%20slots/banjoslots6_zps18f006cf.jpg.html)
The slots are finished, Al that the Banjo needs is a clean up and chamfer.
I'll be back later, I'm not even half way through the photos that I've taken!
Regards, Matthew
-
Hi,
the next chapter is the plunger assembly.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly1_zps1276b602.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly1_zps1276b602.jpg.html)
A piece of 25mm cold rolled is reduced to 12mm over a length of 20mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly2_zpsd02c8694.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly2_zpsd02c8694.jpg.html)
Drilled 6.75mm, tapping size for M8 and tapped to a depth of 25mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly3_zps5ffa8334.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly3_zps5ffa8334.jpg.html)
This allows fixing in either slot of the banjo.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly4_zpscb83c975.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly4_zpscb83c975.jpg.html)
The centre is found and a centre hole drilled.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly5_zps8682ea6f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly5_zps8682ea6f.jpg.html)
Pilot drilled.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly6_zps9b4c6f39.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly6_zps9b4c6f39.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly7_zps64cef559.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly7_zps64cef559.jpg.html)
Drilled 14mm, tapping size for M16, a flat is milled to allow the plunger to seat ot 90°s to it's support.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly8_zps39107c18.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly8_zps39107c18.jpg.html)
Tapped M16.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly9_zpsf1ff305b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly9_zpsf1ff305b.jpg.html)
A second flat is machined on the other side an the circular portion that had been supporting the end turned off in the lathe.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly10_zpsb37e3615.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly10_zpsb37e3615.jpg.html)
In position on the Banjo.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly11_zps30fb7db5.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly11_zps30fb7db5.jpg.html)
Plunger body, reduced and threaded M16.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly12_zps7dfb0228.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly12_zps7dfb0228.jpg.html)
Shoulder turned at the end of the thread to allow to seat on it's support.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly13_zps36ed69ab.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly13_zps36ed69ab.jpg.html)
Drilled through 7mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly14_zpsd2daf7df.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly14_zpsd2daf7df.jpg.html)
Setting up square to correct an error! The flats were not parallel, I was asking too much of my collets.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly15_zps61a3e492.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly15_zps61a3e492.jpg.html)
Re-milling the lower flat.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly16_zps314b8cb2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly16_zps314b8cb2.jpg.html)
I haven't got a 10mm reamer yet, so I used a 10mm Slot Drill to drill the larger diameter in the plunger housing.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly17_zps4214c50c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly17_zps4214c50c.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly18_zpsd087f21b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly18_zpsd087f21b.jpg.html)
Centre drilling and drilling an annealed ball bearing to make the handle for the plunger.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly19_zps5af84c5a.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly19_zps5af84c5a.jpg.html)
Centre drilling a piece of 12mm cold rolled to make the plunger.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly20_zps5089d6c6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly20_zps5089d6c6.jpg.html)
First opperation, reduced to 6mm in diameter and threaded M6 to accept the ball bearing.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly21_zps4b3072a6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly21_zps4b3072a6.jpg.html)
Preparing to reduce the plunger to 7mm and 10mm diameters.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly22_zpsadfb0472.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly22_zpsadfb0472.jpg.html)
7mm
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly23_zps294c0ba2.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly23_zps294c0ba2.jpg.html)
Spring winding, thanks Tom Griffin for your recent video contribution! I ended up making 3 mandrels, the first, 7mm, produced a spring that was nearly twice the mandrel diameter, A 4mm one was well undersized, a 6mm would have been best, but I made a 5mm mandrel as I had some 5mm in stock. I had to open up the coils slightly by hand. I got good results from 6thenths of a mm piano wire.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly24_zps071f7897.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly24_zps071f7897.jpg.html)
Plunger with it's spring.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly26_zps8aca563d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly26_zps8aca563d.jpg.html)
Milling the plunger point. I used a 17mmØ mill, which was as rear as I could get to the radius of the gear teeth.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly27_zps9a440867.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly27_zps9a440867.jpg.html)
The fit is reasonable, especially bearing in mind that the radii change with the diameter of the gears.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly28_zps7e527459.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly28_zps7e527459.jpg.html)
Plunger assembly nearly finished.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly29_zpsb00da5ea.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly29_zpsb00da5ea.jpg.html)
Lining up the plunger body to slot the guide.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly31_zpsce3ee1aa.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly31_zpsce3ee1aa.jpg.html)
Slotting the plunger.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly32_zpsc16531b9.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly32_zpsc16531b9.jpg.html)
Dialling in the plunder to drill for the pin at right angles to the point.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly33_zps9a5fecd3.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly33_zps9a5fecd3.jpg.html)
Centre drilling the plunger.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly34_zpsde0f81ea.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly34_zpsde0f81ea.jpg.html)
Drilling plunger, 2.5mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly35_zps00f556f9.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly35_zps00f556f9.jpg.html)
In place on the lathe.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly36_zps32154a29.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly36_zps32154a29.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly37_zps4a8bd199.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly37_zps4a8bd199.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly38_zps5d9a0779.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly38_zps5d9a0779.jpg.html)
Drilling the spindle.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly39_zps21cfbe8f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly39_zps21cfbe8f.jpg.html)
Final drilling.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly40_zpsee684db8.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/plunger%20assembly/plungerassembly40_zpsee684db8.jpg.html)
The chuck in place, one of those nice moments!
Nearly finished! To be continued.
Regards, Matthew
-
Very nice
Well documented and photographed
John
-
Very nice
Well documented and photographed
John
Thanks John,
I wasn't sure whether or not I'm putting too much detail in!
Regards, Matthew
-
I did 10 hours of video lol
:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
John
-
I did 10 hours of video lol
:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
John
Point taken!
-
Hi,
I'm enjoying the build log. For me as a beginner the extra detail and pictures are helpful. Many thanks.
Steve
-
Hi,
I'm enjoying the build log. For me as a beginner the extra detail and pictures are helpful. Many thanks.
Steve
Thanks Steve,
feedback is useful and nice! I'm glad it's helpfull.
Regards, Matthew
-
Steve said ( I'm enjoying the build log. For me as a beginner the extra detail and pictures are helpful. Many thanks)
Same goes here.. many thanks.. Lyn.
-
I enjoyed watching your build thanks for taking us along! :beer:
-
hi and well dun all you need to do gnaw is send me that one as its you prototype and mack one for your self :) :)
-
Bob nice try, or is he done a gear from the feed shaft would give a 4th axis :D
-
The amount of detail was fine by me, as a beginner, thanks for taking the time and trouble to share, enjoyed it immensely.
John
-
I enjoyed watching your build thanks for taking us along! :beer:
Hi Tom,
it's not quit finished yet, for the moment, I can only do direct indexing from single gears! A few more bits to make!
Regards, Matthew
-
The amount of detail was fine by me, as a beginner, thanks for taking the time and trouble to share, enjoyed it immensely.
John
John,
glad you enjoyed, thanks for your comment!
Regards, Matthew
-
Steve said ( I'm enjoying the build log. For me as a beginner the extra detail and pictures are helpful. Many thanks)
Same goes here.. many thanks.. Lyn.
Lyn,
thanks for your comment, back soon!
Regards, Matthew
-
hi and well dun all you need to do gnaw is send me that one as its you prototype and mack one for your self :) :)
Bob,
maybe I'm going to have to make you a casting, that way, you could show me how you'd do it differently!
Glad to see you back!
Regards, mùatthew
-
Well done, I have learnd alot from this thread, the DH is on the endless long todo list :D
Nice with all the detail photos, me like :headbang:
-
Well done, I have learnd alot from this thread, the DH is on the endless long todo list :D
Nice with all the detail photos, me like :headbang:
svk,
thanks svk, I'm glad it was usefull!
Regards, Matthew
-
Matthew
I enjoyed your build, and I like how you kept to the drawings, Very nice, you will be able to use it for years.
Nelson Collar
-
Thanks Nelson,
I've learnt a lot on this build and I'm going to end up with a useful tool into the bargain!
Regards, Matthew
-
Hi Matthew
Your presentation has the correct ratio of pictures to text, the content was clear and interesting and I have picked up some tips on the way. Producing these posts involves many hours, and this has resulted in a great read. Look forward to the final result.
Well Done
David
-
Thanks David,
I'm glad that I'm apparently not over doing the photos, it's hard to tell when one is working on something.
I find doing the build posts stimulating, it makes me think about the project differently!
Regards, Matthew
-
Just finished reading this, excellent job, really enjoyed it :)
-
Thanks Northumbrian,
I'm glad you enjoyed it! I'm on the last leg now, I'm looking forward to getting on to using it!
Glad you enjoyed it, regards, Matthew
-
Thanks for the update Matthew - this project turned out very nice.
In response to your question: I don't think there is such a thing as "too much detail".
-
After watching two of these threads i kinda had an. :smart: moment.. These bases and the banjo is a really good candidate for a stepper motor conversion and using a arduin for controlling the divides, geared properly and the stepper would have all the sufficient holding power it ever needs.
-
Neo Tech,
I agree with you, the only thing I would change is the gears, drive it using toothed belts to eliminate backlash. With the lock set up as it is, the spindle is locked.
Don't stop thinking about the idea!
Regards, Matthew
-
mattinker, WOW you good and that sure is a lot of work, now I am going to the tube to see, Its Me
-
Hi It's Me,
Thanks for the complement!
Hi everybody,
well, life has been getting in the way, so it's taken a bit of time to get back to you.
The remaining parts are the layshafts and the keyed bushes that carry two gears, locking them together. I've made these in to fit the Emco banjo, so that the two other sets of gears that I have will work there as well. This means that I have amongst other things, the 127 tooth gear for inch threads that I can now use.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/carrier1_zpsc522bc4c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/carrier1_zpsc522bc4c.jpg.html)
I needed two lay-shafts to mount the change gears on the banjo. A piece of cold rolled was reduced to 12mm in diameter a little shorter than the thickness of the banjo.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/carrier1_zpsc522bc4c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/carrier1_zpsc522bc4c.jpg.html)
Drilled 6.75, to tap M8.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/carrier2_zps6207c4d1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/carrier2_zps6207c4d1.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/carrier3_zpsa7499eeb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/carrier3_zpsa7499eeb.jpg.html)
Tapped M8
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/carrier4_zpsd775c251.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/carrier4_zpsd775c251.jpg.html)
Test fit on the banjo.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier5_zpsa72a12bb.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier5_zpsa72a12bb.jpg.html)
I reduced the outside diameter to make it look nicer!
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier6_zpse39f0ba1.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier6_zpse39f0ba1.jpg.html)
I drilled the gear side 5mm, tapping size for M6.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier7_zpsbc66f1ed.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier7_zpsbc66f1ed.jpg.html)
tapped M6.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier8_zps04d90f7f.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier8_zps04d90f7f.jpg.html)
Completed and in position. The large gear is mounted on the other lay-shaft using the sindle and keyed bush from the Emco.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier9_zpsf371a73c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier9_zpsf371a73c.jpg.html)
A piece of cold rolled, reduced to 6mm to thread M6.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier10_zps948b4235.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier10_zps948b4235.jpg.html)
Reduced to 10mm over 16.5mm, two gear thickness’s, with a little clearance.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier11_zpsa3cba800.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier11_zpsa3cba800.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier12_zpsa334d92b.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier12_zpsa334d92b.jpg.html)
Threaded to M6
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier13_zps1e8eb78d.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier13_zps1e8eb78d.jpg.html)
Test fit.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier14_zps8bcdfd19.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier14_zps8bcdfd19.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier15_zps1f1a852e.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier15_zps1f1a852e.jpg.html)
Rather than thread and add a nut, I decided to make a built in button.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier16_zps06dcbcf4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier16_zps06dcbcf4.jpg.html)
The button.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/layshaft/Carrier17_zps56d49afe.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/layshaft/Carrier17_zps56d49afe.jpg.html)
Test fit.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush4_zps43216d9c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush4_zps43216d9c.jpg.html)
In order to couple two change gears together on a lay spindle, I needed to make keyed bushes. The key needs to be brazed onto the bushes, especially the 12mm ones as the bus is only 1mm wall. In the chuck I have a piece of cold rolled, turned to 14 and 12mm Øs this is going to make two 14mm bushes and two 12/14 stepped bushes.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush6_zps046b2628.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush6_zps046b2628.jpg.html)
Test 12mm plastic gear.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush7_zps9ceb4466.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush7_zps9ceb4466.jpg.html)
Test 14mm gear.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush9_zps4595b401.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush9_zps4595b401.jpg.html)
Milling the key way.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush10_zps790fa36c.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush10_zps790fa36c.jpg.html)
Key ways cut, one of the complications is that the 14mm gears have 4mm wide keys, whereas the 12 and 16mm ones have 3mm wide ones.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush12_zps660867e6.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush12_zps660867e6.jpg.html)
Key brazed in place.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush13_zps630b6bba.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush13_zps630b6bba.jpg.html)
Milling the key down to fit.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush14_zps94ff1672.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush14_zps94ff1672.jpg.html)
Test fit 12mm and 14mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush15_zps0e8c9a75.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush15_zps0e8c9a75.jpg.html)
2 14mm and 2 stepped bushes before drilling out to 10mm.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush16_zpsbfa8d013.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush16_zpsbfa8d013.jpg.html)
Finished 12/14mm bush.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush18_zps2e0c9b56.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush18_zps2e0c9b56.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush19_zpsd5acdda4.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush19_zpsd5acdda4.jpg.html)
Test 12/14mm bush.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush24_zps8ea13ea0.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush24_zps8ea13ea0.jpg.html)
The complete full set of bushes.
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush26_zps2680d6de.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush26_zps2680d6de.jpg.html)
(http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/mattinker/keyed%20bush/bush25_zpsf6985977.jpg) (http://s917.photobucket.com/user/mattinker/media/keyed%20bush/bush25_zpsf6985977.jpg.html)
In the end, I decided to make buttons for all of the shaft ends, I only need one Allen key to make any combination of gear changes.
I learnt a lot on this project, my surface finish on the lathe has greatly improved. I found milling the 3 and 4mm key ways with a 2mm mill a little hairy to say the least but the mill was very docile and precise!
I'm really glad to have finished this !
Regards, Matthew
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Ive followed it all the way through Matthew, enjoyed your build and pics, very clear and infomative. A nice useful piece of eqipment you now have, Well done :clap:
John
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Very nice Matthew :thumbup:
It must be immensely satisfying to get to the end of the project - now you can start using it :wave:
Andrew
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Very nice Mathew
It was good to see how we made the same thing with different methods
John
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Thanks guys,
thanks for the kind remarks, it's been satisfying and interesting build. Now to move on to using it!
John, I found the differences interesting as they came about for material reasons, lathe size, spindle nose and experience!
Thanks again, regards, Matthew
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I've enjoyed following your build it's a beaut!
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Well done Matthew - I've enjoyed this project.
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Tom, Mayham,
I'm glad you enjoyed the project, I had a good time doing it and I'm looking forward to using it!
Regards, Matthew.
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Excellent work Mathew, very informative, its been a great watch, thank you.
John
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Mathew.
very good. I liked your amount of pictures you furnished in your blogs, very informative. i like the whole finish of your build, the buttons especially very attractive.
i think you have made a quality tool that will when passed down will be appreciated for the hard work and attention to detail that it deserves.
thank you for taking the time in showing us your work.
Anthony..
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John and Anthony,
I'm touched by the positive remarks, it's hard to know how many photos to put in and whether one is being repetitive or informative. I certainly got a lot out of doing this build.
Thanks again, regards, Matthew
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Matt
Fantastic piece of work. Love the knobs for your gear train. I think that same knob would look better on your indexing pin. Top-Shelf
Nelson Collar
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Thanks Nelson,
an interesting idea, but its not the same action, lift and turn as opposed to screwing up tight. I've got to the point where I need to use it so I'll see how it all functions in use! I'm getting ready to make some gears, but progress is slow.
Thanks for the complement, regards, Matthew
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:thumbup: :thumbup: Great job Matt. Enjoyed the write upas well
Pete
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Thanks Pete!
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well dun 100% :ddb:
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Thanks Bob,
it's nice to finish it!
Regards, Matthew
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Love the finish on it. It seems that Ali is more than suitable for this type of tool. Mine is steel weldment and looks crappy next to yours and DB's efforts. Maybe I'll paint it and hide it in a corner :bugeye:. Just joking.
pete
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Thanks Pete,
it's pretty photogenic! In the flesh, the defects show up more!!
Regards, Matthew
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Matt
Just like the ball, you pinch it and pull. The spring is not that strong, is it? I was just thinking it would look good having all the same kind of knobs.
Again a very nice build.
Nelson Collar
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Nelson,
I'm happy with it as it is, I don't feel the need for symmetry! it does have a ball on the locking handle.
Thanks for you nice build comment.
Regards, Matthew
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Matt
Did not want to ruffle feathers, sorry. It is a very nice build and very nicely wrote up, what's next?
Nelson Collar
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No worries Nelson, no ruffed feathersthe next thing will probably be some gears!
Lookiny forward to the Quorn build.
Regards, Matthew
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Thank you Matt, I think your write up is excellent a nice balance of pics to words. And the finished product looks great.
Regards,
Rod.
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Thanks for the coment and kind words!
Regards, Matthew
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Hi Matthew
That must be around five well spent months, and now an extremely useful workshop addition to be proud of.
Well Done
Cheers David
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David,
I hadn't realised I'd spent that much time on it! I had planned a 120tooth gear as a first project, but I've side tracked myself into a workshop rocket stove made out of half a bath tub. I'm launching out into video for this next project, so it's all a bit long in getting posted!
Thanks for the kind words!
Regards, Matthew